Futz34

Hello! I was curious if any of you run nylon on your machines and have had issues with stringing. Nylon in the past has run really well on my machine. I dry it out beforehand and have a makeshift enclosure for it. I've played with dropping the nylon temp down to 240, upping the retraction distance slowly to 8.5 and also the speed slowly up to 35. None of that really seems to work unless I've been pulling too many levers here. Any suggestions welcome. Thank you in advance. (BTW, there is no warp to the part in this picture, this was just me pulling up on the corner).

Issue solved. I exported a finer resolution STL and that seemed to do the trick (if anyone was wondering).

I've got a thin section here on this cylindrical form I'm printing for a client. I'm not sure why it's printing a castle-like structure on the top. It should all be solid. Can someone take a look at my settings and see if there's something I need to change? Thank you in advance.

I never thought to just peel off the sheet. Can I reuse and reapply it after I'm done printing Nylon? I have one of those PEI sheets with the adhesive on the back. I'm on the Amazon page right now for it and it doesn't say if it's reusable after peeling the whole thing off.

I use a bed adhesion sheet and no glue. That obviously didn't work for this. Do you think I should use the bed adhesion sheet with glue or flip it over and just use glass?

Awesome! Just ordered from your store GR5. Thanks so much for all of this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi everyone, Well I recently had a nylon print pull up on me overnight and get caught on the nozzle. Needless to say, it gummed up the entire print head where I had to buy a heat gun to pull off all the gobs of nylon. Yeah, big old mess, I won't forget this one. In the process of cleaning out, I accidentally broke the heating cartridge wire where it connects to the metal cylinder, after the metal crimp. I'm assuming there isn't a way to put that back on there easily so does anyone have recommendations on a replacement or what to do? Thanks so much in advance.

Does anyone have recommendations on the Cura support material settings that affect the underside surfaces it touches? This is basic PLA on the .4 tip on .15 layer settings. I know that this surface won't be perfect but I know I can get it better than this. After a few YouTube videos, I've only played with the Support Z distance which was set at 0.2. I'm thinking maybe that's too much? Thank you in advance.

Thanks. I hate having to pull this many levers in CURA and chase my tail while the customer waits. It's nice to have that sort of flexibility to do those things but I'd rather change the CAD and see. Any sort of ballpark dimension on what you think a gap should be? My instinct tells me maybe as a rule of thumb that twice the width of the tip you're using may be a place to start. We'll see if anyone else chimes in on this.

Hi everyone, I'm running nylon for the first time and the default settings are working pretty good. Not sure if that plays into my question but, what is the minimum gap between parts or walls before they fuse together? Does this have anything to do with tip size as well? I have a ring type form that is not completely joined, which is part of the design. You're supposed to be able to pull it apart The gap right now is .006 in which is roughly .15 mm, I figured it would fuse. Anyone have a recommendation on this gap distance?

Hi guys, yes there were a lot of steep overhangs so I ran the Z-Hop option and that helped tremendously. My printer is just over a year old so I didn't think the pulleys were out of whack. Thanks though for all of your suggestions.

Yes, it's in both directions. So I suspect after watching a few videos that it bumped into some material and messed up the x/y calibration. I ran a smaller print after cleaning this all up and everything worked just fine. So now I'm doing the Z-hop option to ensure that this doesn't happen again. What is the axis alignment you speak of? Is this part of regular maintenance? I looked it up and I don't have that spacer tool they use although I could obviously print it.

Hi! I've had good luck so far with my UM2+ in the last year that I have owned it. I rarely have problems but this has happened on occasion. I'm in the middle of a rather large 19 hour build on a .4mm tip and .15 mm layer height, the print has shifted in the X/Y dimension. You can see the layers printing a few inches diagonally off to the side. What would have caused this? Do I have a corrupt file? Or maybe did the tip catch on some plastic and it screwed up where it thinks it is? Thanks much in advance!

Thanks guys. Xile6, where did you buy your hotend from? Yours looks different from mine with the spring setup inside.

I may be late to the party with any discussion on this. Is there any commercial upgrade kit available, to turn a UM2+ into a dual extrusion machine? I haven't found anything but it seems like the print head is designed to take another heater block assembly. Thanks in advance.

Bueller? Anyone?

Tinkergnome is correct on those stats. Should I change anything to these settings or other settings? @SandervG

Hi Sander. I've used the default travel speed of 120 and print speed of 50. I have retraction checked but I've never seen any customized settings for this. The stringing was actually worse but i grabbed a wad of it and threw it away before taking these photos.

Hi there everyone. What are some troubleshooting and settings you guys are using to reducing stringing? I've read a few things on it but didn't know if there was a definitive fix. Is this a common problem with the Ultimaker 2+? I've only noticed it when printing multiple parts with PLA with the .4 nozzle. I've lowered the tip temp down to 200 but that doesn't seem to be working that great. Other suggestions?

Just wanted to follow up with everyone's advice they've given me. It was a good exercise to try some new things here. I've found that the wood glue/water mixture works the best. The keychains turned out great. Also to use the brim feature when there's not a whole lot of surface area touching the bed, in the case of a ring model I just printed. The guy in the above video was all about scrunching the first layer and getting the tip very close to the bed. I tried his technique of tapping the bed during calibration and not using the card. Although all it did was smear material around the first layer and make a big ol' mess for me. It just didn't work for me on my machine but maybe it has worked for others.

Thanks guys. I'll try the hairspray trick along with washing the tray off with saltwater. Ever since I washed the bed off with tap water for the first time, I've been having trouble with it. So that may be the cause. Any specific brand or type of hairspray that works best?

Just the basic glue stick that came with the printer. I do notice it dries fast. Should I be using something else?

I've got an Ultimaker 2+, running a .4 tip at .15 mm and using 3DUniverse PLA material. I'm trying to make 4 keychains in this build, they measure roughly 3.5 inches by 1.5 inches. Tried running this tonight and I had the material completely melted inside the tip and all around the heating core inside the extruder! Basically the print lifted up from the bed and got caught on the tip. After cleaning all of that out and starting on a fresh calibrated and cleaned bed, I watched it like a hawk. I brought the bed temp up to 65 degrees and slowed the print speed down to 95%. I'm still having issues though! I shut it down after it printed the brim so I could get some help from you guys. The letters aren't anything real fancy, just block text, but aren't printing that great. You'll also notice on the corners that the material is still lifting up and warping. Need some help and suggestions! Thank you in advance