NBull
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Posts posted by NBull
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36 minutes ago, ultiarjan said:
This seems counter productive to me, as the lines will also be printed 0.48 apart from each other. I would just keep 0.4 but increase flow % and temp a bit.
Yes the lines will be 0.48 so the bond to lines on same layer wont be much difference. But for a 0.4 nozzle to make an 0.48 line it needs to squeeze out more material on the same spot to exceed the nozzles diameter and therefore bonding better to the layer beneath.
ps. don't know if Annealing the part will help make it more water tight or that's just work for strength!
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Use one filament only if possible. if Pva is used be sure that it doesn't string or ooze. since this can be caught between the layers and make holes.
Go with a decent layer height 1.5
Print at relativly hot tempetures
Extrusion Width can also help since it forces the layers to bond more eg. 0.48 on a 0.4 nozle 120% increase
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Hej AndersK
Thanks for the feedback I'll try and order some spools🙂
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Hej Belezeebub.
When I read you last post i'm not sure if i'm reading it positive or negative. so just to clarify, did changes in settings help or du you still have the accuracy problem?
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Hi, when I slice my model with and angle less than 67 I get holes in my support!
It's the same with different profiles, as far as I can see its only triggered by the Overhang angle.
any ideas on why?
Layer 26
Layer 25 Angle 67
Layer 25 Angle 66
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15 hours ago, AndersK said:
Add North has a program were you can return empty spools and scrapped material.
They even pay the shipping cost.
You get a discount based on how much you return.
They only accept PLA and their own brand as return but it's a good thing.
I have just been looking a bit on the Add North, I like the idea of reuse filament and spools. and would like to try it out.
But I can't fine anywhere to buy the recycled Pla only Abs, or is that just me!
I'll like to try some of there standard Pla but to me it looks like its all bio-degradeable and im not so keen on that.
Any one have some experience with there product line? -
5 hours ago, Curven said:
So I am more and more looking to get to a masterspool system:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2769823
But for this there are pretty few filaments avaiable, and UM material with the NFC tag would be a little bit more complicated tu use on this. (I use old UMO so NFC is not a subject for my use)
I would also really like to see a master spool system.
I know of some off-brand systems for 1.75mm but none for 2.85mm 😕
I don't think the NFC chip will be a problem. the NFC is just the little cardboard ring at the back it should bee pretty easy to place your self on a master spool system.I know there might be som issues with the windings. but again a fragile frame just to keep it in place until the master spool is installed should also be posable to make. it would still keep the wast down to a minimum.
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Hi my s5 made a weird pause early in a print, and ditten give any info on why. So I was looking at the log data to see if i could find a reason there.
As I see it, it was triggered by the fillement censor. My spool is not placed ideal (at the side of the printer) so probably not the printers fault. But I find it odd that there wasn't a message telling me why it paused!
When looking at the log theres a lot of warning and error messages. I don't normally look at the logs, so maybe its normal but I don't remember there being this many for a print.
And to me it looks like it is doing a lot of faulty try's to upgrade the firmware? eg.
- Nov 06 15:58:50 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3005d91 python3[236]: 2019-11-06 15:58:50,580 WARNING systemUpdate HTTP error 404 during updating of the update version strings for release type 'testing' from url 'http://software.ultimaker.com/releases/firmware/9051/testing/um-update.swu.version?current_version=5.2.11.20190503': Not Found
Also it's checking for firmware for the U3 and U3e! is that normal? eg.
- Nov 06 15:58:01 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3005d91 flipflop_wsgi.py[697]: INF - app.services.printer.version_checker:57 - Got the latest firmware version '5.2.11.20190503' for printer model 'Ultimaker 3 Extended'
- Nov 06 15:58:01 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3005d91 flipflop_wsgi.py[697]: INF - app.services.printer.version_checker:70 - Checking firmware version URL https://software.ultimaker.com/releases/firmware/9511/stable/version.txt
- Nov 06 15:58:01 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3005d91 flipflop_wsgi.py[697]: INF - app.services.printer.version_checker:57 - Got the latest firmware version '5.2.11.20190503' for printer model 'Ultimaker 3'
- Nov 06 15:58:01 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3005d91 flipflop_wsgi.py[697]: INF - app.services.printer.version_checker:70 - Checking firmware version URL https://software.ultimaker.com/releases/firmware/9066/stable/version.txt
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If you don't wanna use your printer for the drying. I can recommend a car dehumidifier bag. I have had some really bad rolls, I have saved whit it. I just stopped in a zip lock bag together with the pva rolle and let it sit 3-4 days.
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27 minutes ago, iccherry said:
Interesting. I'm using Cura 4.3.0 on an UM3E. As I mentioned, the speeds are different, but my accelerations for both fine and fast profiles are the lower values.
Apparently the difference lies in the printer.
It's a long time since I used an UM3 so wasn't aware that there was a difference.My mistake.
S5
UM3e
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19 minutes ago, Ishy said:
Do you think this would apply to me with CPE @ 60mm/sec? Set them all to 60.
I don't have much experience in CPE so (disclaimer 🙂) if it's much different from other materials.
But in general yes, if you opt quality over speed, setting all to the same low speed will help the quality.
I would say you should go for 40 mm/s or even 30 mm/s on all speeds.
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You will not be able to compare the "fast" CPE to "fast" PLA, CPE have some overruling settings that make the "fast" CPE lock a bit like "normal" PLA.
Fast PLA:
"Outer wall speed" 50 mm/s
"Inner wall speed" 55 mm/s
"Outer wall Acceleration" 2000 mm/s
"Inner Wall Acceleration" 2000 mm/sNormal PLA:
"Outer wall speed" 23 mm/s"Inner wall speed" 45 mm/s
"Outer wall Acceleration" 500 mm/s"Inner Wall Acceleration" 1000 mm/s
Fast CPE:
"Outer wall speed" 35 mm/s
"Inner wall speed" 45 mm/s
"Outer wall Acceleration" 500 mm/s
"Inner Wall Acceleration" 1000 mm/s -
15 hours ago, iccherry said:
The only difference I can find in the newest Cura fast (0.2) and normal (0.1) profiles is the layer height, wall overlap, and the speeds. All the accel, jerk, and other settings look identical to me.
Hi, I agree that the "fast" profile is shit, and I can't really see any use for it. But to be fair there are some significant changes between normal and fast beside the layer height.
"Outer wall speed" goes from 23 mm/s to 50 mm/s
"Inner wall speed" goes from 45 mm/s to 55 mm/s
"Outer wall Acceleration" goes from 500 mm/s to 2000 mm/s"Inner Wall Acceleration" goes from 1000 mm/s to 2000 mm/s
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Waldo do you still have an UM3, I would like to see how the same file is printed on that.
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From the "Fast" standard profile, Cura 4.3 only changes is Plate temperature is set to 0
(My printer have some dampers installed on the feet's. but from the looks of the other prints it ditten really do any difference.)
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I have also had the "ghost print core" a couple of times. Wit me it course after a print is done.
Some times I have had luck in just turning of the printer at the back, and when it powered on again the core was registered.
If that doesn't help you can, unclamp the bowden at the back, release the fillemet tensioner and pull a bit of fillment throw, then you can cut the fillement and pull of the bowen.
carefully try and "cold pull" the fillemet out and if not possible cut the fillement right between the cors metal part and bottom of the print head.
It is prity hard to cut without damaging the print head, so if in doubt I would check if it's covered by the warranty.
Why do my posts always double post pictures??
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Hi Waldo, I don't mind doing your print so you can compare. but can I get you to upload it as a "Cura Project (.3mf)" I like to check the settings before printing.
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Hej I often print with a 0.25AA and a 0.4BB with out problems. Also relative big models.
Did you use a preset Cura profile or make one yourself?
If you are worried about a different layer height. You can check if the layer is the same on bought cores by either clicking on the fan 1 or 2 in the drop down menu
It can also be that you have a small disten between the Pva and Pla (to make disassembly easier)
"support Z distance"
"support Top distance"
"support Bottom distance"When using PVA I always set all three to 0 (can give other problems but if you use a Pva that more or less completely dissolve in water its not a big deal.)
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I have also had the s5 for a long time. And as a professional tool i'm overall disappointed in it, I don't think it can live up to the price tage. Comparing problems other people are having there is a tendency to either get a good or bad machine.
And honestly at this price I will say that there are to many people getting a bad unit.As it is now, I can't recommend it. it can be a really good machine, don't get me wrong. But also a really bad experience with endless problems.
The s5 issn't as accurate as the U3 so unless you really need the bigger build volume or extra features. And are happy with the U3 stick to that. 🙂
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Do the lid minimize some of the sound or it is only for particles?
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The layerview is in compatibility mode. This could be because you have forced Compatibility mode on, should be off / unchecked. or your graphics card doesn't support OpenGl
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It looks like the PVA ditten stick to the glass plate.
There have been other threads about the s5 (assuming that your printer) printing air on the first layers from the second core. Which will result in your case in the PVA not sticking on the rest of the print.
Try and "enable prime blob" for the second core (PVA)
if it doesn't help. Pull the lever of the second feeder and push the PVA a little bit forwards if possible (until resistance). Do this right when the second core begins to print.
"original tip from: Cymon" -
I think the post is approved. I can see it, so pretty sure others can as well. Som times it just takes time to get an answer. especially if it's a weird bug not seen before. (three days is not that long)
I would like to give you an answer to the problem, but i have no idea why it dos as it do.
Is it the same if you change som setting on the tower. eg.
* Tower Size
* Minimum Volumeps. what Cura version are you on, Mac or Pc?
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Thanks again for doing the test.
The two back fans, do you actually hear them as "fan/rotating blades" noise. or is that the engine humming sound also.
After the head fan shouts off i have no fan noise. only the. engine sound, or more like sitting in an airplane with you fingers in the ears, background all around humming.
I'm only asking to clarify, because I can't hear any difference from the stepper or back fans. (will not say my hearing is unusually) But the sound is all around and not specific to on part.
But it is comforting that you also have an "unusual" sound. Then it's not only me anyway, if thats good or bad time will tell 😉
Cancel a Job in the Print Queue
in Improve your 3D prints
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You should be able to see you queued prints in the "monitor" tab in Cura. Or under print jobs in Cura connect click on the three dots in the right side and remove it there.
Cura
Cura Connect