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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5

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  1. NBull

    Aluminum build plate update

    I'm really not interestet in exchanging my aluminum plate for a glass plate. I bought my S5 with an aluminum plate, not and extra glass plate. Your own glorification and sales pitch fore this mashine had the aluminum plat as a key feature. and was highlighted as being better than glass. And now you just wanna downgrade it like its no big deal! And yes, one of the selling point for me on this machine was getting an alternative to glass. if you can't deliver the aluminum plate, give me a refund so I can look for an alternative third party product. (I pay for a gold watch but get one in plastic. whats the problem i can see the time on both.)
  2. NBull


    I can only see the model files and not the Cura profile! The pictures look a bit like some of my failed prints when "enable gradual infill" if its one, so try and turn it off, if on. This setting fucks up my S5 more then anything. (maybe it has changed in later Cura versions) And like mentioned before the print temperature looks way to hot. (dont know if there can be a setting overriding your custom set temperature?)
  3. NBull

    Submerging PLA when printing with PVA

    I normally just have a big bucket of water to dissolve the PVA. the water only gets replaced when to milky, so it's more or less always room tempter around 17-20ºC. so in my experience PVA will dissolve fin in way lower tempters. I speed up the proses by brushing of the PVA when it gets mucous. if it takes to long or are hard to remove I would say its probably more because the water is saturated, then because of the tempter. So if you are afraid to damage the PLA just let it sid longer in colder water and you should be fin. In general its only the parts with PVA that needed to be in water. But depending on the model and how the PVA support is, there can be some stringing caught between the PLA layers.
  4. NBull

    Unable to print with non NFC spools

    I dit have the same problem with my S5 at the start, meanly when I tried to send prints over wifi. I have newer gotten the wifi to work. So now its on a cable and i don't have any problmes. I don't know have the problem sould be related, but after instaling the cable its gone. Maby it was just a coincidence! (By the way, when I'm using a drybox / polybox I normaly take of the cardboard peice with the NFC and plase it on the normal spole holder to ensure it gets the signal)
  5. NBull

    rubber-like materials

    It might be something in my settings thats of. but this is in TPU with 10% infill. It can bend but it's not rubbery like. And when bending it's more like a sharp angle bend, not a soft curve like one who expect from a rubber material. Stretching the ring also requires a great effort to deform it. it might be that i'm doing it wrong, i like the material for what it is, but i would not call rubber
  6. NBull

    rubber-like materials

    I have done some prints in TPU 95A an I would not call it a robber more a flexible plastic. it is really hard especial for small prints. so if you are expecting to make a silicone like gasket this is far from. it's easy to use and prints well on the S5 though. In my experience the top have more imperfections then the bottom, so if possible i would print it against a PVA surface to get the smoothest result.
  7. NBull

    Using right side nozzle as main!

    Well thank you for the answer 🙂 I didn't expect there to be much difference, but again some fillement is very temperature dependent. so maybe there could have ben an gain. Again it was just a thought.
  8. NBull

    Using right side nozzle as main!

    I don't have an UM3 anymore so not sure, but I assumed they had the same mekanisme. At the UMs5 its only the right nozzle thats lowered and raised the left is stationery. so when active the right side nozzles sits a little lower then the left. around 2mm
  9. (sorry if this is a dumb question) I was just wondering if there are some print setups where the right nozzle will have some benefits over the left. My thoughts where that maybe the extra distance from print tip to print head, could give some better airflow / better cooling or maybe less radiant heat. I know the difference is minimal. But will it be enough, to be noticeable under certain conditions.
  10. NBull

    XSTRAND GF30 PA6 Test Print

    How is you Polybox set up/connected? Not saying it's the deal breaker but i would try and print whit out the Polybox. My experienc wit the Polybox is that when i use it with 2.85mm fillement it tends to grip (friction) the filement to much so the feeder has a hard time pulling and pushing the fillement back in the box.
  11. NBull

    PVA Question

    Don't know if my problem is the same, but i found that some spools if they have a lot of "tensions" (not sure if that's the right word) will easily get tangled at the last part of the spools. because it unfolds to much on the spool and fillement starts drooping. I think this is because the spool gets to light, compared to the fillement tension. and my fix was to print a roller for the spool and put some weight on it. It worked for me, after this i don't have problems whit loss fillement. I used a piece of Ø 40mm metal rod with a 3D printed sleeve, so it's quite heavy almost 1kg. maybe a bit over kill, but on the ball bearing roller it has no noticeable resistance. and stands firmly in place.
  12. NBull

    cost specification not working

    Hej don't know if you have found a solution for your problem. But I will guess it's because you also need to put in a Filament weight.
  13. NBull

    unwanted line on first layer

    Try setting "combing mode" to (not in skin) enable: Avoid printed parts when travling Z hop when retracted Z hop only over printed prat (not sure if this is needed but i have it on)
  14. Hi i need some help/advise on a layer shift problem. I have a new (4-5 month) UMS5 it's not running prints every week so print time on it have ben minimal. and i'm really not happy with the print quality. to me it looks like the x/y ases do shift or are not precise. Sometimes, same print can first come out good and then next time be really bade. so its not consistent. But also showed that it can make the quality. I found a thread on the forum *1 that have a similar problem. So i began to check the belts and axles. The belts look straight and fine. but to be honest I do not quite know what to look for! if i move the head so the black plastic part is at center of the axes i can move the belt down approximately 1cm befor theres resistance. so its more like a base string then a guitar, is that okay? Im not that comfortable, just beginning to screwing on a "new" machine. it should not already be necessary. But is this a normal thing that has to be screwed tighten occasionally, or do i need to send it ind. When inspecting the belts i noticed that mostly all the screws on the left side have ben over torque (the screw have some degree of deformity), it even looks like there's a brokken piece in one of the screws holding the motor. Cura Profile if needed: NBull.curaprofile short description it runs slow *1

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