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NBull

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NBull last won the day on November 15 2019

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  • Country
    DK
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    (Product) design

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  1. I see. Please give me an update if you find a solution or reason. I didn't actually think of Cura in general as a contributor for the problem 😕 If thats the case I can troubleshoot all I want on the machine and never get any where, sigh. But again, problem is not only the printer. Part of the problem is also that I don't have more energy to give this machine. I'm run down in troubleshooting and bad prints. I have no "joy" in printing anymore. 3D-printing have become an annoyance. And I dont know how to get past this!
  2. I will not say that my expectations are unrealistic. I am aware of the limitations in FDM printing. But it is depressing to see other people with a far cheaper machine make faster and better prints. And yes I know you cant compare apples whit oranges. The first 100mm from the bottom, the layer precision is "in my opinion" really bad. Then it gets as "expected" towards the top. The Pva is only used for the first 10mm so that shouldn't be and factor. Rods have just been checked for play and realigned according to specifications. whit no difference. Other things that have been tested: Bed tempter on/off. Z-axle have been tested. Maximum head movement have been tested. Diffrent Cura profiles. Both stock and item specified. Diffrent print tempters, have been tested. to make sure its not under-extruding. Diffrent filement have been tested. Different item orientation. Different models (Some have more than others "not same z-height" but its always there. Unless its and item under 50x50x50 mm then it's fine) Nozzle swap.
  3. Every time I remove a new print from this printer, its whit the same feeling "Wow this look like Shit" I have in the past been working with both DIY printers and industrial printers like Stratasys. So I know 3d printers ar unreliable, and gives an endless learning curve. That expensive isn't a guarantee that its good or flawless (not saying that Stratasys is a bad printer it just also have its quirks, despite the hefty price tag) But that said. Tweaking the print settings. Replacing or upgrading parts is fun and educational as long as you see a progression! I have no progression whit the s5 its just a endless circle of bade prints. And honestly im at a point where its killing my overall interest in 3d-printing. I'm not only blaming the s5, it could as well have been any other printer. But the general worship and idolisation of it, made me expect more. And probably also made the disappointment that bigger. So this is a open question. There must be other people that have been at this point. and haw did you get past it?
  4. You can use the "post processing" under "Extensions" in Cura to make g-code changes at x height.
  5. I'd say that's a wrong assumption. That there are only two posts on the forum don't mean that the problem isn't there or give and indikation on the problems size. 1: This bundle is mostly addressed to companies. Companies don't necessarily read or comment on the forum. 2: People whit the problem see that its already adressed and just follow one of them, whit out commenting. Waiting for a solution. 3: People whit the problem have already returned the product. I personally had exactly the same problem, I haven't comment on it because I don't use that unit any more.
  6. Yes priming is necessary, and I personally don't mind the waste material. But just unloading into the chamber is a really bad idea. Every time it unloads one of these long strings there's a big chance it will get caught by the z-screw.
  7. Hej Gr5, I would actually like to see how your s5 prints a Benchy. Also you Smithy 🙂 In general I would have liked to see more people join in. it's what 0.35 usd. and 2 hours for a Benchy. The s5 is sold as a Hige end PLA printer, it should be possible to print a Benchy on it. Whether it is a large format printer or not.
  8. Hi Framar, what version of Cura are you using? This is printed as 0.15 basic profile no changes to settings. I have tried to mimic you picture angles. Photos of 3d prints are a weird thing, somethings will not look as bad on photo and others will look worse then they are! I dont think the print in your picture is that bad, I have seen much worse come from a s5. I have a layer mismatch at the same spot on the hull as you. I think its more a combination of model angle and slicing settings, more then a layer shift. but yes its an inaccuracy. The ghosting in my opinion is more likely do to speed, then the cooling fans. The s5 needs to print dead slow to not ghost. The drooping in your windows are most likely do to to hige print tempter. it can also be because your fan is not working properly as you mentioned. so be sure that there are no filament stringing trapped in the fan's. Here are som more Photos of my print. sorry for the photo quality but im not at the studio today.
  9. I'm pretty happy with (PrimaSelect PVA+) Proes: it's fairly easy to dissolve in water, even cold water (room temperature). and its not so sensitive to ambient moist as some other brands. Does not string "relatively" reasonable layer bonding at low print tempters. Cons: Expensive compared to other pva brands. can get fragile/porous over time. "Don't think it will make a difference. But I only use the 2.85mm variant."
  10. The prices on RangeVision are from 10,000 - 20,000 USD (plus minus, depending on what country you live in) RangeVision Spectrum: 5,000 usd RangeVision Pro 2M: 15,000 usd RangeVision Pro 5M: 20,000 usd
  11. Well thanks for the update. Glad you found the solution 🙂
  12. I mean template. It is a stl file that only contains a ø1 cm circle 1mm high. I load it togeter whit the "model" and then just drag/drop it on to the spot I wanna enhance, then use Cura's scaling to alter the size so it fits my purpose better. So the photo above is two files, the star shaped model and the round template plased on one of the corners so it overlap the model.
  13. Custom made support will probably always be the best solution. I agree that the two layer brim could probably be and good alternativ. But as it is now not possible in Cura. When I have a print that has a critical spot eg. a sharp point or the edge of a square. I have a circular template I put on the model to strength that spot whiteout doing custom support for the whole thing. I know it's not and option for a big complex model but for three or four critical points it works fine. don't know if this cued help you.
  14. Just wondering how often people do this? If not going for the one year mark. was it an idea to aiming for a "used" filament mark instead, and what could that be?
  15. I works for me when turning off "Brim Only on Outside" you must have some other settings overriding it. Try and upload it as a Cure Project.
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