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NBull

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Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
  • Country
    DK
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5

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  1. After updating to Cura 4.0 I have a problem selecting items. no matter their size. if i don't click/hit it right in the center where the xyz arrows meets, in that item I cant select it. Others who have encountered this problem?
  2. Hi kc-li sorry to hear your post have been hanging. I don't understand that you can't find others on the forum with the same problem, there's a lot of posts with problems related to the 5.28 update. most of them in this one. (sorry can't find the page, but the auto leveling have been mentioned in this post)
  3. Out of curiosity what have other people been getting as an "reasonable alternative" to the plate?
  4. I think kmanstudios had a similar problem not sure if he found a solution for it.
  5. Hi Torgeir The item is roughly 50x70mm, I have included the profile. if you wanna make some changes I can print it again to see if it makes any difference. UMS5_4781 - indsats-v3.3mf
  6. Hej I'm back with an update. Godt and new BB core, and a new spool of Pva. It helped a bit I can get the temperature down to 200 from the 215 on the BB (initial 190, final 185) but it effects the print quality of the Pva. it don't run as smooth and the layers don't binde well? for a good quality of the Pva I still have to run it at a higer tempetur? Got a black and gray Pla, for the tests. I don't see mutch difference in warping comparing the black and gray. The warping is still relative random. (the black tend to "ghost/ribble" more though ) 0.25 nozzle, 0.06 layer As said the warping is now minimal, (on small and medium, big is still a problem) but i got a problem with fussy surface (bottom) instead. I don't think its stringing, because its only on the parts connecting with the pva, other part have no stringing at all. any suggestions. 🙂"it's not Pva remnants"
  7. No sorry. But I'm guessing that it will work fine. I have never had any problems with red filament in general.
  8. I'll say you can't put it as a yes and no question. it varies from types within brands and colours. e.g. I like Ultimaker Tough PLA Black but can't get the Tough PLA White to work. same brand same type, only difference is the colour. MAX-eDe I like all there PLA colours except there blue which i think is to "calcium like" which makes it more fragile. I think PrimaSelect is easier to dissolve the Ultimaker PVA And so on.... So depends on the project. In you case i will probably go fore Ultimaker Tough PLA for that extra strength. but again that delimits your colour choices.
  9. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52601-update-the-firmware USB updates are temporarily not supported
  10. I'm not sure what effects if the print goes clock wise or caunter clock wise! But if it starts at the front left corner and moves caunter clock wise, the front side will be your starts surface, and if the speed or acceleration is to hige the surface will be effected and not neseserly the rest of them. Your print looks tall and narrow. so the higer up you go the more sencetive it will be to changes in speed. and cause z-scaring.
  11. In the first picture at the right side where it's most "crunchy" is that where your seam is? because it might look like it's you acceleration thats way to high at the beginning of each layer.
  12. When used for a model plane, I'm not sure that it's the most optimal direction you are printing. all your cross bares will be very fragile. I would consider printing it laying down and using some supports. Edit: Sorry didn't see that it was a paid print project! Dit it come with print instructions? I still think the print direction will make it weak. But they have probably tested and ment it was strong enough.
  13. Hi Torgeir Ty for your input. My print temp for the Pla is actually only 190c if i go lower the layer bond is not good. It's only the Pva thats 215, and if i go lower on that it clogs all the time. The Pva is in a dry box and beside the clogging it prints well. Before the S5 I used a BCN3D Sigmax (separate heads) so I didn't actually think of the BB core on the S5 being a factor for radiant heat. But now you say it, the slow print speed and high temp on the BB core would probably be a factor for the warping. Ill try and replace the BB core and se if I can run it colder. Don't know if I should go back to different print speeds (Outer wall, inner wall e.g.) I have the best results in quality when they are the same. but it would be a way to reduce the time the head is over the parts. if i can't get the BB to run much colder.
  14. The Picture is 0.06 layer / 0.4mm nozzle The model have three of this points on a circle, one facing direct right (03:00 on a clock) the others evenly spaced so one is (07:30) the other (10:30) I don't really see any difference in them. so don't know if the direction made much of a difference.
  15. The print on tape is don. and I don't know what to say. the print is bad, really bad. there's more warping and the places where it is it's more extreme, then when printed on the heated bed. any suggestions are welcome. I also got a new staircase effect on the sides. I cant see it in the Cura preview. but Im guessing thats its a bade combo In Cura between draft angle and layer height? BTW. Is this really the layer precision I can expect from this machine?
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