NBull
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Posts posted by NBull
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Out of curiosity what have other people been getting as an "reasonable alternative" to the plate?
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I think kmanstudios had a similar problem not sure if he found a solution for it.
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Hi Torgeir
The item is roughly 50x70mm, I have included the profile. if you wanna make some changes I can print it again to see if it makes any difference. -
Hej I'm back with an update.
Godt and new BB core, and a new spool of Pva.
It helped a bit I can get the temperature down to 200 from the 215 on the BB (initial 190, final 185) but it effects the print quality of the Pva. it don't run as smooth and the layers don't binde well? for a good quality of the Pva I still have to run it at a higer tempetur?Got a black and gray Pla, for the tests. I don't see mutch difference in warping comparing the black and gray. The warping is still relative random. (the black tend to "ghost/ribble" more though )
0.25 nozzle, 0.06 layer
As said the warping is now minimal, (on small and medium, big is still a problem) but i got a problem with fussy surface (bottom) instead.
I don't think its stringing, because its only on the parts connecting with the pva, other part have no stringing at all. any suggestions. 🙂"it's not Pva remnants" -
No sorry. But I'm guessing that it will work fine. I have never had any problems with red filament in general.
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5 hours ago, kunitsa said:
One of my friends said that of all existing PLA filaments Ultimaker's PLA is the best. I do not know how it is.
I'll say you can't put it as a yes and no question.
it varies from types within brands and colours.
e.g. I like Ultimaker Tough PLA Black but can't get the Tough PLA White to work. same brand same type, only difference is the colour.
MAX-eDe I like all there PLA colours except there blue which i think is to
"calcium like" which makes it more fragile.I think PrimaSelect is easier to dissolve the Ultimaker PVA
And so on....
So depends on the project. In you case i will probably go fore Ultimaker Tough PLA for that extra strength. but again that delimits your colour choices.
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https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52601-update-the-firmware
USB updates are temporarily not supported
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17 minutes ago, bolsoncerrado said:
However I don't find that as an explanation as to why this would affect only the frontal wall considering there are 3 more walls, left right and rear, and frontal is the only one affected. Makes no sense to me :?
I'm not sure what effects if the print goes clock wise or caunter clock wise!
But if it starts at the front left corner and moves caunter clock wise, the front side will be your starts surface, and if the speed or acceleration is to hige the surface will be effected and not neseserly the rest of them.Your print looks tall and narrow. so the higer up you go the more sencetive it will be to changes in speed. and cause z-scaring.
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In the first picture at the right side where it's most "crunchy" is that where your seam is? because it might look like it's you acceleration thats way to high at the beginning of each layer.
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When used for a model plane, I'm not sure that it's the most optimal direction you are printing. all your cross bares will be very fragile. I would consider printing it laying down and using some supports.
Edit:
Sorry didn't see that it was a paid print project!
Dit it come with print instructions?I still think the print direction will make it weak. But they have probably tested and ment it was strong enough.
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Hi Torgeir
Ty for your input. My print temp for the Pla is actually only 190c if i go lower the layer bond is not good. It's only the Pva thats 215, and if i go lower on that it clogs all the time. The Pva is in a dry box and beside the clogging it prints well.
Before the S5 I used a BCN3D Sigmax (separate heads) so I didn't actually think of the BB core on the S5 being a factor for radiant heat. But now you say it, the slow print speed and high temp on the BB core would probably be a factor for the warping.
Ill try and replace the BB core and se if I can run it colder.
Don't know if I should go back to different print speeds (Outer wall, inner wall e.g.) I have the best results in quality when they are the same. but it would be a way to reduce the time the head is over the parts. if i can't get the BB to run much colder. -
9 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
What layer height are you slicing?
could also depend on orientation of model on printbed.
The Picture is 0.06 layer / 0.4mm nozzle
The model have three of this points on a circle, one facing direct right (03:00 on a clock) the others evenly spaced so one is (07:30) the other (10:30) I don't really see any difference in them. so don't know if the direction made much of a difference.
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The print on tape is don. and I don't know what to say. the print is bad, really bad. there's more warping and the places where it is it's more extreme, then when printed on the heated bed. any suggestions are welcome.
I also got a new staircase effect on the sides. I cant see it in the Cura preview. but Im guessing thats its a bade combo In Cura between draft angle and layer height?
BTW. Is this really the layer precision I can expect from this machine?
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I have the same issue when printing PC. So I do understand why Ultimaker cancelled the aluminium plate, they make a lot more money of us with all the glass plates we have to replace. 😉
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On the three horizontal bars next to your search window you click "manage setting visibility" search for the infill before walls an make shure its marked then it should appear in your infill list 🙂
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"Installed" the blue tape, and tired to make a print with the bed off. It took five failed startups before it made a god one. never had this many with the heated bed. Maybe I was just unlucky don't know.
Also tried to lower the layer hight. and I'm sorry to say but I don't see any improvement in the test print. But to give a fair comparison I will make the same bowl print over the weekend. -
Hi Gr5
When looking at it, it looks like more then one layer is off (from the curve) And it doesn't feel round. I will not reject it's maybe only some layers that causes the problem. still a problem 😉 but it don't look that way.
I don't really have a z-axis problem, beside that it's not accurate (size) I can make a pretty perfect cube and 45degree overhang. If there where layers with problems it should be consistent right? the problem is only there when printing a curved overhang.
(there's a little shift at the bottom of the overhang, that was do to a fillement break)
Regarding the painters tape. To be honest I feel a bit let down, One of the reasons I upgraded to the s5 was to get the aluminium building plate and the enclosure with better heat control. now I have to go back to painters tape, and no heat.
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Print is done. And the underside turned out better than expected regarding the dents. But the shape simplification is easy to see.
Like shown in the picture, you can see that the curved edge, is more edgy like its made of straight surfaces (low polygon)
But in the slicer its a nice round shape.
Is this some simplification happening in the printer (doubtful). Or Cura that do this before exporting, but don't show it in the slicer?
It only happens on "overhang" bottom curves not the top ones.
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It could sounds a bit like a faulty USB then, (if it's disconnecting and connecting again mid process).
I don't remember if it loads the file to the internal memory before or after the auto level cycle.
But again that would probably also give a error message.
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You probably have tried this. but if the glass plate gets too high over the cast frame. do to manuel leveling over time. the auto level will fail a lot more.
Some one told me its because it uses electronic feedback from the tray, to measure the distance. and if it gets to far of, it will make false readings "don't know if it's true"
but It help me to bring it back down, so worth a try.
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Hi kman
I appreciate you taking the time. But I think we are talking a bit past each other. I don't have a problem with the steeping. I know this is an unavoidable effect of angle vs layer hight do to the way a 3d printer works. It's the dent's/warping I can't get rid of 😉 -
Hi Torgeir
Thanks for the input. I agree that this mostly occurs close to the bed, also why I tried to lift the hole print. I have not that much success in printing with the bed off though. but Ill give it a go again. what Is best tape or glue?
I haven't thought of the filament colour, affecting the cooling. I will try a black, although I only have UM's tough pla in black, so maybe not the best comparesent, since tough pla reacts diffrent then normal pla in general.
Hi kmanstudios
Thanks for the input, but It's not the stepping. I'll see if i can clarify the question better. Here's a picture of a top and bottom side from the same print. stepping is more or less the same on both sides. it's the inward dent thats the problem. I know it's some type of warping.
Top
Bottom
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Well that's an issue, i'm already begun sanding 😕 so it's not easy to see any more. and the print in the printer is not ready until Monday. (The item in the picture is flipped, what you see as top was printed facing down)
This is from another print. in Ultimaker pla but it's the same problem. the print gets this inward bumps, thats only on the pla an not in the pva.
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Hi
I have some bowl like shape i need to print. I know the best way (quality) is to print it with the opening down. but to save in support material and time I would like to print it with the opening up. and here comes the problems. This gives me a very bad finish on the underside.
I know it will never be as godt as the top side print, but again when using pva I think it should / could be better. so im looking for some tips.
1: Warping and deformation on the underside, special in the curved part. I can se that the pva is printede fine. so the pla must lift detach from the pva.
I have tried to lift the whole print 10mm and 15mm from the build plate (ideer was to give it a more uniform tempter) I see some improvements, but not sure if is a coincidence.
Changing "Support z/x/y distance" to give a better grip on the pva.
don't know if there some settings overriding this because i don't see any changes.Speed, I have all set to 25mm/s so should not be a problem.
minimum layer time is 10sek not sure if this should be higher or I will benefit more from a prime tower. (don't really use prime tower they have a tendency to break of midway)
2: Shape simplifikation. perhaps it's also due to warping! but parts of the bottom seam to be simplified. e.g. if you print a ball the bottom will be more edgy like if the polygon count is smaller then the top half. if that makes sense.
In general I have problems with the print quality at the underside og my parts. so any tips will be appreciated.
Printer: UMS5
PLA: localbrand temp 200-225c (I see same problem with Ultimaker pla)
PVA: PrimaSelect PVA+ temp 180-210c (I generally print a bit over recommendation 215c at lover temp it tends to stig a bit in the print core, same with Ultimaker pva. don't know if the temperature gauge can measure incorrectly on the B core?)
autolevelling problems after 5.28 firmware update on UM3 extended
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Hi kc-li sorry to hear your post have been hanging. I don't understand that you can't find others on the forum with the same problem, there's a lot of posts with problems related to the 5.28 update. most of them in this one. (sorry can't find the page, but the auto leveling have been mentioned in this post)