NBull
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Posts posted by NBull
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There's a lot of good tips on tuning the Cura support on this page.
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52663-support
Try and take a look at the
* Support distance priority and
* Minimum support x/y distance
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Pretty sure you are printing with a too high temperature. which courses stringing.
The mid air print is probably som structure part that ditten stick to the build plat, and then the printer still tries to print it "in air" or again just extreme stringing that gets deposited somewhere along the printhead travel route. -
38 minutes ago, Smithy said:
The sound from a stepper sounds not healthy, but I haven't heard it yet on the S5. I can check it in the evening if my S5 makes a similar sound when I pause a print.
Thank you, that would be appreciated 🙂 please note that it takes some time before the print head fans shut off.
41 minutes ago, Smithy said:I guess homing the head is not so accurate to get then back to the correct position. The home switches are only normal microswitches and they have some tolerances. So it is safer to keep the head in place to guarantee the next layer starts exactly where it should.
Agreed that would be a plausible explanation. But again pausing a print is in general not ideal for the print quality.
And pausing a print is mostly don (at least in my case) because you have to leve the printer for some reason, when it can't be running.And in this case I would rather risk a mismatch in the layer then a stepper burning out do to standing still. or at least that they had a timer so they would shut off after and hour or two.
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okay it seems that there is power on the steppers, the print head can't be moved when on pause.
So if the sound is from the steppers, (still hard to tell if the sound is from the stepper or not) is that "healthy" I don't know that much about how a stepper is different from a normal motor.
But to me it doesn't sound that good. again only with reference to normal electric motor.
I know it's probably a question for a developer. but why keep the stepper on power at all. why not just let the print head "home" befor starts up.
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The print core do cool down and all three fans in the head shuts off (min do anyway, can't say if its normal?)
As fare as I can tell the fan from the electronics down next to the power cord also goes into idle. don't know if there are other fans on the printer.
(fan bracket is only open to show that the fan have stopped when paused. also the two on the sides has stopped, can't take a photo of that though 😉)
I wouldn't say that the z-screw is decidedly dirty?, maybe it's the video quality. if you are referring to the dark color it has always ben that way.
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Hi, I had to pause a print for some hours today, I know it's not advised to do print quality wise. and its a really long time since I have don it last, so don't remember if it's normal.
After pausing the the print, the head moves to the front side cools and shut down the fan. normally.
After the fan have shout down theres still this weird hissing sound coming from the printer, that I can't locate wheres coming from.
It doesn't sound like a fan, its more like a hissing / humming sound.
but still quite loud.s5 sound video.mp4.zipIt is possible that the sound is there all the time when printing, but that it just cannot be heard for the fans.
Is this something I should be worried about and why doesn't it go away when the printer is paused?
ps. bed temp is set to 0c printing on tape.
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Pretty sure it's "just" an enclosed/cabinet for the s5.
At the end of the video clip (0:10-0:11) there's a lighting difference in the side panel. Showing it is two halves, and placement fits with the feet of the s5, so some type of add on.
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As also mentioned above if you only have one photo you will first need to 3d sculpture the model your self. And also colour the model.
If you have a camera and the model/person, but not a scanner you can use Photogrammetry Software to make a 3D model out of a lot (a lot) of still photos.
https://adamspring.co.uk/single-post/2017/08/30/Single-Camera-Head-Scanning-Photogrammetry
I have seen people make grate models in this way. But have never been able to make it work my selve.
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Hi. To me it looks like a model that's not watertight. or have some other mesh error.
Most the time Cura can overcome small imperfections in the mesh, but sometimes Cura misreads them and slice it wrong.
If you upload the stl or step file I can have a look at it.
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I sometimes have kinda the same problem. only with PVA though (BB core) and only on slot 2 (right side)
At the first 2-3 layers it only prints air. well I am actually not sure it prints air, but suspects it's only moving the print head around. when putting a finger on the fillement next to the feder you can normally feel that it's pulling the filament (even if the head is clogged, it still have a small pull) when I have this problem I can't feel any movement on the filament.
Enabling prime blob results in the head moving to the corner as normal but then right away it moves away again. no extrusion.
I can start the same print 2-3 times with the same behavior.
So when I get this problem I "change" the fillemet. unload and load the same filament again, and the problem is gone. I know its not a fix. But it gets the print started.
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I think it's "combing mode" try setting it to (not in skin)
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For me it's a problem in standard Cura with no plugins installed.
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25 minutes ago, mkaj2019 said:
Are you trying to compare a 40k printer with a 5k printer?
If you wanna compare printer to printer, then no it's not a reasonable comparison.
But this is about the print profiles. The comparison lies in the fact that bout MarkForged and Ultimaker controles the whole supply chain. Printer, Fillement and Software so from that point i think its an resenebole comparison.
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Hej @Brulti this is probably gonna be a bit long, and don't know if its fitting for this topic. if not, Mods. are free to move it.
I did actually consult this forum a long time ago, asking if this was really the quality I could expect.Also pointing out that the machine was assemble very poorly. And that each screw on the left side was over torqued, so that the screws was deforme. Theres also a piece of a screwdriver (lack of better word) stuck in one of the stepmothers so I cant move it. but did not get any feedback in the forum.
My resellers anser to the screw was that they would just replace it ones I handed it in for service, the steepmotors would work fin with only the tre screws.
When the machine grinded the print head, I first thought that it was a faulty z-axel and dit hand over the printer to the reseller to look at. they dit a test print and could not finde any problems. and sugested that it was a temporally bug.
So yes i have been in contact with my reseller without getting any real usable help.
I bort the machine as b2b so cant get any help from the consumer law.
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19 hours ago, gr5 said:
First of all it's the resellers making mistakes. Not Ultimaker.
I agree and disagree. Yes it's not directly Ultimaker fault that the resellers don't update their info.
But for a company that claim to have a strong relationship with there resellers. And focuses on the consumer. I still think that they are responcebole to follow up on the status.
The mistake in the first place lies on Ultimaker for selling a product they don't deliver. not the resellers. And yes I acknowledge mistakes happen, don't get me wrong.
19 hours ago, gr5 said:and I can tell you I would never make a sale by deceiving customers because that just comes back to bite you later. It's much easier to fix the product description now than deal with 20 angry customers later. At the same time some of my product descriptions should have been updated many months ago.
I agree, it will bit you later and that is exactly whats happening here. Yes mistakes happen. But offering a compensation that has so much lower value is a joke. and will only make the customer feel like they have ben cheated.
it's a 9000,- machine so I personally think the description update should be be prioritised.
19 hours ago, gr5 said:The aluminum plates just don't work. They work for a while but then they slowly warp due to the repeated heating and cooling and become useless. Unfortunately the first sample plates they got somehow worked for a long time (over a year I think) and now no one can duplicate that.
Again I agree there's nothing wrong in withdrawing or canceling a faulty product. But the way Ultimaker handled this is criticising in many ways.
17 hours ago, Link said:When I owned the Prusa I would spend more time tweaking the printer than printing parts, which at first was fun but then just got annoying.
This is exactly my problem, just with the S5. I spend more time tweaking the thing then I do printing. trying to get near the alleged accuracy. if it doesn't stall on the autolevelling an don't print at all.
At the moment it's just sitting on the shelf as a 9000,- paper weight, and I have to get my prints don by another company. So no im not happy with this printer.
Was I just unlucky and godt a lemon from the start, I cant say, maybe.
Is it me thats doing it wrong, maybe. But using a standart profiles with original material almost destroyed the print head so its probably not only my fault.But non the less, this machine don't work as what I was sold and paid for.
2 hours ago, SandervG said:Hi @P3D, If you print with PLA or Tough PLA, here are some profile settings that are likely to improve your dimensional accuracy. Perhaps you can give them a try!
Line width: 0.4
Wall thickness: 1.2
Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2
Speeds: 40
Jerks: 20
Horizontal expansion: -0.03
walls: 3If this is the go to settings for accuracy why don't you implement them in your standard profiles?
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Hej Ocieward, if you haven't already bought the S5 i would consider looking for something else. this is a good hobby machine but nowhere near the professional hardware it's sold and prices as.
Btw. PrintedSolid is not the only company still advertising with the aluminum plate. So Im guessing that Ultimaker value the sale more that happy consumers and honesty.
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How do you use VLC for the stream?
Just as as comparison youtube takes from 15-20% for an 1080p video in same browser.
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Hi I have a problem with Cura "monitor / webcam" almost maxing out my CPU.
When Cura is idle it uses around 1.0% - 1.5% CPU, but activating the webcam brings it to 398% (400% = 100% 1core x 4)
Using the stream from Cura connect is around 60% (Chrome) Still high for this bad quality.
macOS 10.13.6 (10.14.5 same problem)
CPU: 2.3 GHz Core i7-3615Q
GPU: GeForce GT 650m
Cura 4.1 (same problem 4.0)
Printer S5 -
Hej Alan. I have a question.
And sorry if it says on your page but i ditten find it 🙂
Do your products have som heat vs speed regulation. im thinking of dual extruder systems where the fillement movement isn't constant. and you risk one of the fillement siting a "long" time in the heater at the same spot.
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I don't know the Thordsen 3D IFD-175 filament dryer, but we had a similar product at my old workplace.
We used it on drye spolles to keep them dry when the print was over 5 days long. to protect agenst ambient moist for the print duration.In my experience it can't "drye" the spoll, but make long prints more uniform. so in general its not worth the money, you will be betteroff whit a drybox. (polybox or similar)
Edit: Only worked with it on Pva, don't know how it will work on Pla, Nylon or Abs.
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I'm guessing that the auto leveling on UM3 and s5 will be a problem for the "on the fly" style adjustments.
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Same Cura both are 4.0 and same computer 😕
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Hi i'm not sure if its the firmware, but its the only thing that have changest between the two prints.
After updating to firmware 5.2.11 (S5) i have a problem with my Pva leaving a lot of surface scaring on the Pla.
The two pictures are from the same Cura project, same settings, same Pla and Pva spole. same print cores. Printede with three days apart, Pva is in a drybox, so should not make a difference.
only thing that have changest is the firmware update in between the two prints.
any ideers?
Print 1
Print 2
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After updating to Cura 4.0 I have a problem selecting items. no matter their size. if i don't click/hit it right in the center where the xyz arrows meets, in that item I cant select it.
Others who have encountered this problem?
Making a 'glove' type hand support
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Sorry if i misread it wrong but is it something like a cast, then you might get some idea her.
https://www.sculpteo.com/blog/2019/04/29/can-additive-manufacturing-heal-bones-with-a-3d-printed-cast/