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P3D

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P3D last won the day on October 23 2018

P3D had the most liked content!

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  • Field of Work
    Manufacturing
  • Country
    AT
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5

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  1. I tried the settings you recommended, the dimensions are better, they are not quite there yet but better than I am used to. I don't really care about maximum speed if my parts come out with reasonable tolerances.
  2. Thanks for providing these settings, I will certainly give them a try! Do similar settings exist for CPE, perhaps? That is the main material apart from ColorFabb's XT-CF20 that we print with right now. However, I will also second @NBulls question - if these settings do improve the accuracy, why aren't they included in the standard profiles, perhaps as an "accuracy" or "engineering" profile, as opposed to a "speed" or "general usage" profile? Since using Ultimaker Materials on an Ultimaker printer should ensure that Ultimaker does have complete control over all aspects of printing, there would certainly be a possibility for the UM profile authors to make really accurate profiles for these materials?
  3. Then we have very different experiences. For me, it has always been a struggle to get good quality, accurate parts off the S5. I had to endlessly tweak profiles, and in many cases had to resort to editing the CAD file to get accurate dimensions, something I never had to do with our MarkForged printer - which is also just a bowden FDM machine in the end. What I have seen from my work colleagues Prusa i3 Mk 3 just blows the S5 prints out of the water. I did get some good prints off the S5 and it has been quite reliable, but I can say the same about my Anycubic i3 Mega for 1/20th of the price...
  4. Hi, welcome to the Forum! Unfortunately, you will not be able to 3D print a burst disk. There are just too many variables involved. A burst disc has to have very consistent material properties, and has to be machined to a very exact shape, as to reliably burst at the design pressure.
  5. I can second this. It is a good machine, but far away from the "plug and print" experience that is advertised, and the print quality and accuracy is still not where I would expect it at that price point (which may be more of a software than a hardware issue, but it doesn't look like Cura is going to get drastically better suddenly). Honestly (and I hope UM won't ban me from this forum for this), if the printing volume of a Prusa i3 is enough for your needs and you don't really need (and by that I mean, *really need*) dual extrusion, I would probably get that one. (And I would start with one machine, not with three). If, however, you *need* dual extrusion (not "like to have it"), AND need the big build volume of the S5, then you can consider it - but still, look around a bit before you really order your machine.
  6. That's good to hear ☺️ You're very welcome, glad that I could help you on this :)
  7. Hi, Polymide CoPA may be worth a try, the TDS says the Vicat softening temp is at 175°C. https://cdn-3d.niceshops.com/upload/file/PolyMide_CoPA_TDS_V3[0].pdf I don't know about 0.06mm layers, never tried that. Do you achieve the resolution you need with other, not high-temp materials on your S5? BTW, another option might be to let someone print these parts in FormLabs High Temp resin, that may be cheaper than Accura Bluestone.
  8. OK, that is good - one source of errors less :) Just use your TPU extruder for both the model and the supports. You may have to tweak the support settings a bit. I never tried breakaway as support material for TPU, since for my parts TPU supports have been adequate so far.
  9. First of all, is your material (including the TPU!) dry? Make sure it is, because wet TPU will always print with terrible quality. Also, one suggestion: Have you tried just making the supports out of TPU, using single extrusion? I found the TPU supports quite easy to remove in many cases.
  10. Ouch, that looks bad. A PolyBox can *keep* your material dry, but to really dry out a wet material, you'll need some kind of dryer, like a PrintDry, or even a full-fledged convection oven. Sad to see that there are still badly packaged filament spools out there. How in the world Ultimaker got the idea to ever package moisture sensitive materials in this manner is another question... You should never need to dry a brand new filament in order to be able to print with it! Actually, such a spool would need to be classified as faulty and returned to Ultimaker, so they can deal with it...
  11. No problem - so you have an Anycubic i3 Mega. As the name says, this is not an Ultimaker printer. I would suggest posting your question in the "Help, Tips & Tricks" section of the forum. I would also contact the manufacturer (Anycubic), I heard they are often quite helpful. It would also not hurt to find some forum or facebook group that deals with Anycubic printers in particular, as there you are much more likely to find people that know the exact answer to your problem. There may be some Anycubic users in this forum, but it is still mostly an Ultimaker forum.
  12. Ummm... what? Do you mean: -An Ultimaker 3? -An Anycubic i3 Mega? -Some other printer? If it is anything else than the first option, you're probably not in the right part of this forum, or even not in the right forum at all.
  13. I can only second that. Every company I know of that does any serious 3D modeling work has SpaceMouses for their employees, as they vastly improve the workflow - instead of click, drag, press shift, press the other mouse button etc. you can smoothly and accurately manipulate objects in 3D space without lifting your hand from the device even once. It is a shame that Cura still lacks this.
  14. Das ist mir neu, ich drucke nicht viel mit 100% Infill, aber bei meinen Modellen ergibt sich zumindest in Cura überhaupt kein Unterschied zwischen den Infill-Mustern wenn ich auf 100% gehe. Magst du vielleicht mal Beispiel-Screenshots machen? Vielleicht ist das ganze ja auch ein Cura-Bug, würde mich bei der Software zumindest nicht wundern...
  15. Mir ist nicht ganz klar, was du mit "Gitter funktioniert nicht bei 100%" meinst. Bei 100% Infill wird jeder Layer so gedruckt wie ein Top/Bottom Layer, das ausgewählte Infill-Muster hat darauf dann keinen Einfluss mehr.
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