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P3D last won the day on October 23

P3D had the most liked content!

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    Ultimaker S5

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  1. P3D

    Print Core CC | Red for Ruby

    Yeah, Ultimaker seems to be kind of caught in the in-between - hobbyists on the one side, for whom the prices of newer UM printers and their upgrades are quite steep, and corporate customers on the other side, who don't mind so much paying some hundreds of €/$ more, but want things to "just work", which often is not the case without quite a bit of tweaking and fiddling. The company I work for will go for the CC core, because it is officially supported, as opposed to the HardCore/Everlast combination.
  2. P3D

    Suggestions for XTRAND Strength test models

    Just that you know, those won't be Onyx Parts, but pure Nylon and Nylon+CF. For getting Onyx Parts, I would suggest either contacting MarkForged directly, or getting parts printed through 3DHubs or similar. While we do have a MarkForged printer, we use it almost exclusively for in-company stuff, and anyway shipping costs to Canada would be more than the part's worth probably, so I fear I can't help you out here unfortunately.
  3. P3D

    Suggestions for XTRAND Strength test models

    @JohnInOttawa: You could consider requesting MarkForged sample parts here: https://3d.markforged.com/request-sample-part.html - this is "just" their usual keychain sample in Nylon and Nylon+continuous Carbon Fiber, but it helps to get a feel for the material, and you can print something similar on other printers with other materials.
  4. @JohnInOttawa: Glad I could help you! One factor in favor of the MarkForged printers is their print quality - being tailored to one material, there is much less tinkering involved in getting really good prints, and their supports are also really easy to remove most of the time. I wouldn't consider buying an OnyxOne though, if you buy a MarkForged printer, get one with the continuous fiber capability.
  5. Maybe I can help you out on that. Onyx, by itself, is a rather mediocre PA6-Nylon filled with milled fibers. Pure Onyx parts get quite soft after some time, due to them absorbing moisture from the ambient air. Onyx with *continuous* fiber reinforcement is a whole different story though. You get exceptionally stiff and strong parts, by far better than what is achievable with non-continous reinforcement (for example up to 48 GPa flexural modulus for Onyx+Carbon Fibres, compared to 6 GPa for XSTRAND GF30-PA6). If you can directly replace a CNC milled part still depends on the specific use case, however.
  6. P3D

    Einstellungen für CPE+ Filament ?

    Nein, was ich weiß ist das unerheblich, da er dann sowieso die Layer so druckt wie Top/Bottom Layer.
  7. Just a word concerning the "support channels". The last time I tried to get some info - I think it was about the actual release date of the UM3 Advanced Printing Kit - via the "UM support channels" (info@ultimaker.com), I was told that support had been outsourced to the resellers, and I should contact my nearest reseller (who was clueless on that issue, of course). I got ping-ponged a few times between UM and the reseller, and I had to toughen up the game (i.e. express my dissatisfaction in a more direct way than I usually do) to get a usable answer in the end.
  8. P3D

    Einstellungen für CPE+ Filament ?

    Ich weiß nicht warum Zig-Zag Infill als Standard eingestellt ist, meinen Erfahrungen nach ist das relativ schwach mechanisch, weil die Schichten nicht aneinander haften - ich würde (neben höheren Drucktemperaturen) auch das Infill ändern.
  9. Try to disable combing. This has helped me a lot when printing with CPE (which is a PETG based filament).
  10. It seems trying to explain something to you is futile. @nallath already said everything that is to say here: I'm out of this thread.
  11. If "other software products work", why don't you use this other software? Have *you* paid Ultimaker or the other Cura contributors to develop their software for your printer? If not, let me remind you that you are *not* in a position to demand anything. You can politely ask for help, however. Ah, so now you have switched to personal insults. It is not the job of the others to sift out the information you want to convey from dozens of vaguely coherent and sometimes rude posts written in barely intelligible English, it is your job to present this information in a clear, concise and adequately detailed way. So if you want to get on with this, I think you should clearly state, in one post: -which printer you have, and/or what control board you use exactly and how you connect the printer to your computer -what you are trying to do -what you have done so far to reach that goal -where you are stuck, and where exactly it is that you think the people on this forum can help you
  12. @x_pack: I don't get why you are upset. You write a rather rude and demanding post because Cura, which you downloaded free of charge, isn't plug-and-play with your specific, non-Ultimaker printer. @nallath very generously offers to fix your problems in his free time. Instead of being grateful, you continue yelling around (writing in caps is considered yelling on the internet) and writing rather confused posts where it is very difficult to find out what it is that you actually want. By the way, so far we don't even know which printer you are really talking about...
  13. "eco friendly" because of a few watts max? Surely your fellow workers arrive by bicycle? Or are they using their hundreds-of-kilowatts cars to do this? (Sorry, OT, but I'm fed up with people that are self-proclaimedly "eco-aware" and nitpicky about turning off the lights, but make a weekend trip somewhere by plane without even thinking) BTT: An option like the one you mentioned would indeed be very welcome.
  14. For what it's worth, here is my approach to a similar construction for the second spool. You have to wiggle it a bit before it fits, but it works. I printed it in Black Tough PLA. Inside the ZIP are STEP files. secondspoolarm.stl SecondSpoolBase.stl secondspoolretainer.zip

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