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P3D last won the day on October 23 2018

P3D had the most liked content!

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    Ultimaker S5

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  1. Well, this is what beta tests are for. Not something for paying customers who rightfully expect a working solution. Other manufacturers also doing it the wrong way doesn't mean it has to be this way.
  2. Ouch, that doesn't look good... maybe some kind of telescoping Z screw guard could be installed? The segments would have to be rather short, obviously, since the minimum clearance to the build plate assembly is not that high...
  3. If I understood the original post correctly, it is also about waiving the build height restriction for the last part.
  4. Nice suggestion! I don't know if there is any way to do this yet (I suspect there isn't), but that would be a handy feature for sure!
  5. Hi, so to clear up things a little: -You design your part in a CAD modeling application like Fusion360, TinkerCAD, OpenSCAD, Solidworks etc. Better stay away from SketchUp for 3D printing, as it is really bad at generating correct polygon models (more on that below). Here you can also edit dimensions - if the Thingiverse uploader also uploaded a CAD file and you happen to have the right software, you open the file and tweak the dimensions, add or remove features etc. -For 3D printing, you then export a polygon model (STL, OBJ, 3MF,...) which describes the object not in terms of features and parameters (extrusions, fillets etc.) but in terms of polygon surfaces. These models have to be watertight, non-manifold etc. to successfully be sliced and printed correctly, which is the point where SketchUp often messes up really badly. -The finished polygon model is what you load into the slicer (Cura etc.). With most slicers, you can scale and/or distort the model, but editing features is difficult to impossible with polygon formats, regardless of what software you use. So, if you only get the STL, you can print it as-is or scale the whole model, but you're out of luck if you just want to change a certain dimension. With simpler models, you can often re-create them by yourself, though. For the spool holder you mentioned, you will notice the .scad files that are available - meaning you're lucky! You just have to download OpenSCAD, make yourself familiar with that software and then you can make those arms longer, export it to STL and print that baby :)
  6. Interesting, so the brittleness was solved by printing at a higher temperature?
  7. Humm.. interesting, I see your point. Still, I would contact your reseller. One idea though - maybe a belt isn't tightened correctly? See https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52607-check-the-tension-of-the-short-belts Or it could be one of the axles: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52606-check-for-play-on-the-axles
  8. That's a serious shortcoming on the Ultimaker side. There should be a sensor for this in a machine that sells at this price point - or it shouldn't be able to happen in the first place. I would contact your reseller and ask for free replacement print cores, as it is not your fault that the fan shroud comes loose during a print and that can actually ruin a print core.
  9. Hi, the topic of your post is slightly misleading, as it isn't a backlash issue (hopefully). The lack of user-accessible calibration is something quite some people (including myself) have criticized for a loooong time, but it seems Ultimaker isn't willing to change that. Your best bet would be contacting your reseller and asking for a solution, I think. Until it is solved, I fear your only option remains correcting for this manually... I totally agree with you that this is not what is to be expected from a professional machine! Even if they were super-accurately calibrated coming from the factory, there's always the possibility of something changing along the way - and if you don't have the level of customer support where the manufacturer/distributor will actually re-calibrate the machine for you, then the user ought to have access to the calibration IMO.
  10. Thingiverse is also not that hard to learn, though 😂
  11. You're welcome. You mean Tinkercad, right?
  12. SketchUp is notoriously bad at exporting proper models for 3D printing. I guess that's the culprit. If your model is just composed of Surfaces with zero thickness, Cura doesn't have anything to slice.
  13. For Nylon, the glass transition temperature is misleading, as it stays solid and rigid (if you can call Nylon rigid at all) well past that temperature - actually, it is one of the more temperature resistant materials, I expect it to be able to go to at least 100°C without a significant degradation in material properties. If its flex doesn't hurt your application, I would certainly give it a try.
  14. @Cornelius703: No, you only get that view after slicing. I suspect that there is something amiss with the model. @cmosera: Which software did you use to create those test cubes? Did you also try to slice some random STL from thingiverse or a similar platform?
  15. Hi, it would help if you could post some pictures. One thing I would definitely try is to dry the filament before printing, wet TPU prints very badly (lots of very fine strings, almost cotton candy like, blobby and irregular outer walls etc.)
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