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    Ultimaker S5

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  1. P3D

    Replacement S5 glass build plate?

    Our reseller says they can't give us any availability date... this is actually quite frustrating! What do we do if the current build plate breaks? Organize some glass sheet from somewhere? I find this ridiculous for a 6000+€ machine...
  2. P3D

    CPE+ vs PC for functional prototypes

    Very, very late to the topic... but for this application, I'd use nylon anytime. Just be careful that your final dimensions fit, Nylon is somewhat prone to shrinkage - better print slow (~35mm/s for all speeds) and make some tests to determine if you need to use scaling or the horizontal expansion setting.
  3. P3D

    experience with printing in PVC?

    There are actually (at least) two suppliers, as a quick google search for "PVC filament" turns out. One of them tries to sell you a specialized printer for this and sells only big quanitities, the other one seems to just sell the filament. I'd just contact them both about what you want to do. I don't think many people have tried it here in this forum. You will need proper ventilation of course - but that's likely easy to implement in an industrial setting, so go for it! (And it would be extra nice if you keep us posted with your experiences)
  4. P3D

    Is there a way to change precision?

    How to implement this (probably): Use http://doc.qt.io/qt-5/qregexpvalidator.html (PyQt4 Code snippet - should also work in the PyQt5 used - see answer to this thread: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/34399485/qlineedit-accepts-only-character-in-pyqt4). I have zero Qt/Cura coding experience unfortunately, otherwise I'd probably just try to fix that myself and commit it to github...
  5. P3D

    Is there a way to change precision?

    If something is not correct, it should be fixed. Especially if it is something like this - I suppose Qt (the GUI framework of cura) does have easy options for implementing the right behaviour.
  6. Split the model in two parts at the height you want to switch. Then you assemble the parts in CAD, and export STLs of the single parts (from the assembly view, so that the coordinates are correct). In Cura, you open the STL parts, assign different extruders to the parts, then select both parts, right-click and select "merge". (BTW, that is the standard multi-material-print workflow)
  7. P3D

    Can we use 1.75mm ABS in a U3 or U5?

    AFAIK you'll need a different extruder, print cores etc. to do this, plus of course the software tweaks. I would not do this with either a UM 3 or a S5. Maybe with a UM 2+, but you've got to ask yourself if it wouldn't be better to just buy a cheap chinese 3D printer built for 1,75mm filaments, plus a plexiglas box for enclosing it against warping ABS, for the money you would otherwise spend on modding the printer... So: technically possible, but not worth the effort IMHO.
  8. Thank you all for the feedback and the suggestions! As for the "print dry" suggestion, I am well aware of just how moistures sensitive many Nylons and other filaments are, so I'm in the process of building a drybox with a mount for the original NFC Reader. Interestingly, UM Nylon seems to be less moisture sensitive than UM CPE, not to speak of TPU - seems that the claims about reduced moisture uptake are more than marketing. Thank you @gr5 for your profile insights! I tried them out, and parts come out much more accurate than with the default profile. After tweaking the horizontal expansion setting a bit, too, I am quite happy with the resulting dimensions, inner holes being near-perfect, and outer dimensional innaccuracy of max. 0.1mm. Ultimaker, if you're listening - dimensionally accurate "engineering profiles" would be most certainly appreciated by your customers, and would be one more reason to stay with UM materials...
  9. Thanks for your feedback! Correction in CAD is far from ideal in our companys workflow unfortunately. For now, I made the adjustments in CAD, and while there is still some error (seems to be non-linear?), the accuracy is OK for the intended use of the part. In my opinion, this is a prime example of what *should* be corrected in a material/printer profile. This should not be too difficult for Ultimaker, as they have in-depth knowledge of their materials, hardware and software. In other words, they are in full control of all the parameters. A turn-key "print the STL file exactly as it is" solution would be a huge differentiator, especially for industrial customers On the other hand, they don't even seem to bother about simply ticking a box that is already there, like disabling the combing for CPE.... Sorry if I seem to be quite negative, I really like the S5 for its flexibility and general reliability, as well as the very useful material range. However, I expected much more from the combination of HW/SW/Materials coming from a single manufacturer.
  10. I am printing a fairly basic part in Nylon, and the final dimensions are very inaccurate in X and Y directions. For outer dimensions, the part is 0.3mm too big in X Y, for inner dimensions (hole in the XY plane) it is 0.7mm(!). When compensating with negative "horizontal expansion", the inner hole cuts into the wall in layer view at -0.35, so I have to compensate this in the CAD file... this is not a viable long-term solution! Does anyone know if there is a way to fix this in Cura? Also, the default UM material profiles in Cura generally seem to be rather unrefined and crude, judging from my experience - see the recent thread on CPE issues. When paying this amount of money for a machine, I expect much more, honestly - especially when seeing what quality for example a Prusa i3 for nearly 1/10 the price is capable of. If Ultimaker is serious about gaining industrial customers in the long term (and who else, apart from wealthy hobbyists, will pay ~6500€ for a FDM printer?), they really have to offer a solution that works without endless tinkering. On the positive side, at least in Z direction the accuracy is good so far.
  11. P3D

    Tough PLA and saltwater

    Judging from the very mixed experiences that turned up on a quick web search on this issue with pure PLA (ranging from "will crumble in no time" to "absolutely no problem") it seems to depend very much on the exact composition of the PLA filament. If you can't test and want to stay on the safe side, CPE or a similar material (XT, NGEN, generic PETG) would be the way to go IMHO - at least if it is pure salt water, with chlorinated (swimming pool) water it can be a different story, judging from the chemical resistance charts I found for PETG.
  12. So, to sum it up so far for future reference: 1. If you print with UM CPE and get crumbs and ensuing holes in walls with the default profiles, try setting "Max Comb Distance With No Retract" to e.g. 0.1mm, or disable combing altogether. This solved the problem for at least two people with different printers and different CPE colors. 2. CPE seems to print better at higher temps than the standard profile. Avoid going lower, as this will worsen inter-layer adhesion and makes for less clean overhangs. Propensity for stringing will increase with higher temperatures, however. 3. XT is a related, but different material to CPE. It is not as prone to crumbs and bad surface quality, but should be printed slower than the default CPE profile and with lower than max. layer height. It is more difficult to get to stick to the print bed than CPE.
  13. I had that problem a lot when printing complex TPU parts. The simplest workaround would be to just disable the flow sensor, which is not ideal, but worked for me. But before you do that, check if there are other problems that could have caused the issue, such as the feeder grinding the material and/or a tangled spool. I would avoid putting anything onto the filament, that could cause all kinds of issues, from layer separation to burned oil residue in the hot end.
  14. Great that this is working out for you! Concerning the glue, UHU Stic doesn't seem to be very good, I had a lot of problems with it. Somewhere I saw a post that mentioned it had a very low PVA Content - anyway, according to my experience you'll be much better off with something like the Elmer's washable glue. 3DLac also works like a charm but is quite expensive.
  15. P3D

    8 extruder limit

    @ketterrm: Are you able to share details of your >8 extruder setup? Would be quite interesting.

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