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    Ultimaker S5
  1. Is there any timescale on fixing the blob bug? I.e.the S5 finishing (and ruining) a print by leaving a big blob on it (when printing with TPU)?
  2. OK. Tried a different network adapter, and this time, I manage to get through the WiFi setup procedure UNTIL the final step. Now, the S5 hangs for a while and then prints up the 'Wi-Fi connection failed' message. Man, this is disappointing (unforgivable) for such an expensive product.
  3. (I'm using a Windows 10 laptop) Hi, Tried to connect to S5 via WiFi. It's a no go. Following the on-screen WiFi setup procedure, the S5 instructs me to connect a computer or smartphone to it and start a browser. I can see the S5's SSID in the Windows WiFi network list, and direct my laptop to connect to it. Then, nothing happens. The procedure is stalled and I have to abort. Help! Thanks ?
  4. Thanks to both. Yep, that's working perfectly.
  5. (Ultimaker S5) Hi all, My problem is that a fat first layer (perhaps even couple of layers?) makes features like screw holes too tight. The fit is fine the rest of the way through the hole providing I allow for shrinkage. My first layer looks really good, generally. What should I be doing differently? Thanks :)
  6. Well, I tried a few prints of TPU with PVA, and I can't get the materials to stop stringing into each other. Are there any hard and fast rules simply to stop a material stringing (temp and speed, rather than geometry of the slice/print)?
  7. Can I disable nozzle heating during active levelling? It's causing the (TPU) filament to extrude out of the nozzle during the process, which causes it to fail. Thanks ?
  8. OK, I still have a few problems: 1) Blobbing when the nozzle dwells in one spot. For example, just as the print finishes, the nozzle stop and dwells. A blob forms. Yuck. How can I stop this happening? 2) The ceilings of overhangs being craggy and uneven. I am creating support structures underneath overhangs in the same material (I wouldn't DARE using a second nozzle/material for this, as TPU is hard enough to deal with on its own), but when I break them away after printing, the ceilings look very rough and nasty. Any advice? Oh, I'm using a 0.4 core. Thanks ?
  9. Well, the answer turns out to be quite simple: Before printing, cook the filament (3 mm diameter) at 100 deg C for 1 hour in your oven, and ensure that retraction is disabled. TPU is hygroscopic. Decreasing speed can help, too. The results are amazing. I'll post some comparison pics when I have time.
  10. Hi, I'm a newcomer and would greatly appreciate your help. I'm using an S5 with default settings. I've now tried two different TPUs, Ultimaker's own brand and Sainsmart's 'equivalent', but I'm achieving the same stringy, rough, ugly result in each case. The first layer has good adhesion (I'm using Dimafix spray on the glass plate), but is stringy. I've seen some really nice TPU parts out there that look great, with a clean, hard, shiny finish. Could you give me some pointers on what settings to change? Thanks :)
  11. Many thanks for your help, chaps. I did a couple of manual build table calibrations, and everything works! I've just completed my first ever 3D print. Cool. Can the Cura desktop program display the live camera feed, or only the app? Or is the feed using a protocol I can handle using typical Linux tools? Thanks again, Anthony
  12. It's OK. I heated up the print core (by setting temperature in Maintenance) and managed to pull out the PLA filament manually. Now it's telling me the height difference between print cores in unrealistic. Am I supposed to be having to calibrate the unit when it's brand new?
  13. Just got my S5. Having some problems getting this set up. I now need to to manually remove the PLA filament from the print core because the printer thinks it's unloaded, but it isn't. Golly... frustrating thing. Thanks, Anthony
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