AndersK
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Posts posted by AndersK
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You might get away with no support under the ropes since it looks like a really small area.
Conical support is found under experimental and gradual under support section.
Hint, use the "search setting"
Edit, might have misread your question. Both gradual and conical support is methods to reduce the amount of support material used, (and printing time at a small amount) by using less material at the bottom of the print and increasing it closer to he supported surfaces.
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Sorry, no experience printing them (hence not mentioning them).
Hopefully others can chime in.
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On 1/21/2020 at 9:13 AM, P3D said:
About TPU printing quality/finish... we learned the hard way that TPU is quite hygroscopic and won't print well when wet. (Hard way == Ultimaker having had rubbish packaging, putting the TPU in shrinkwrap with lots of holes instead of a proper vacuum packaging). So if you're not satisfied with TPU print results, try drying the filament and see if that helps.
Good point. Learned that, also the hard way, when starting with Nylon. The sound of frying bacon makes you hungry 😉
Currently Im lucky having about 30-35% humidity so should be ok.
Also my material comes in vacuum sealed bags and it was fresh when I printed my parts.
Next time I'll run two pieces and dry the material between prints to se if theres a difference.
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PETG rated to 75°C, easy to print
PETG with carbon fibre: 90° easy to print
Nylon: 110°C but very flexible and can be tricky. Sensitive to moisture and bed adhesion
Nylon with carbon fibre: 110°C. Stiffer but not as stiff as PETG with carbon. Have a roll but not tried yet.
I would choose PETG with carbon fibre myself.
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Set top thickness and infill density to 0. That will give you an open box with just bottom and walls.
Layer settings and wall thickness is something you need to find out based on your requirements and printer quality.
When I print concept models just for "show & tell" I ususally print with 0,3 layer height and 0,8 wall with 5-10 % infill.
Models for use, like tools and parts for testing usually 0,1 mm layer height and 3 mm wall.
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Thank you.
Continuous working temp is 110°C so hot water should be ok. Guess it will soften a fair bit so pressure need to be at moderate level.
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Yes
Not the best finnish , still learning and trying settings for TPU.
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You can try and reduce distance between part and support roof. Go as close as you can without them fusing.
Printing with cooling? If not override fan speed for the first layer above support can help.
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Yesterday I printed a sealing plate where the seal is tpu and the shell carbon fiber reinforced PETG. Pressure tested up to 5 MPa hydraulic pressure. I was surprised how well it worked.
The PETG and TPU bonded really strong.
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Looks like youre holding red hot steel straight from the forge 👍😎
10 hours ago, cloakfiend said:
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That is most likely due to Cura not connected to the printer.
Check under manager printers if it is listed or not
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Try and set Z seam alignment to random.
That mean every layer won't start at the same position
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I get the same, or worse, on my um3.
I am also very new to TPE but so far only thing I can do to prevent this is cleaning the nozzle before each print.
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On 1/3/2020 at 5:41 PM, ctbeke said:
Can you try Cura 4.4.1? It contains some patches.
Latest cura hasn't resolved my ethernet connect problems with my UM3. Now the reboot doesn't help neither.
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You also need to go into options in the export box and set accuracy to high.
Check units as well, Inventor likes to change it to cm or something else. Hence showing up as wrong size in Cura
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I don't think the plug-in has been updated to latest Cura version yet so you need to use STL at the moment.
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Regarding the circles I would start looking at the export options in the software used to create the 3D content.
In most cad software you need to tweak some parameters to get a good quality file if using stl or other tesselated format.
Layer thickness can contribute to what you se as well. Thick layers and fine detalis usually dont match well.
Under extrusion, probably related to material or parameters and not cura itself. I switched to 4.4 last week or so but didnt notice any difference in quality.
Try rising temperature or reduce speed or a fresh roll of filament.
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An observation, every time I abort a print it goes into this state. Only thing to recover seems to be a full power down.
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At some time I want to try plating, got any good places to source the chemicals needed?
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The corrosion can give a nice patina too.
Mix a bit of baking- or washing soda in the rinse water. Helps neutralising the acid if you dont manage to wash it all off
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Do as Smithy suggest. Printing with poor material can clog your nozzle giving a lot more grief and work to fix.
Dont ask how I know 😉
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On 11/8/2019 at 10:09 AM, NBull said:
But I can't fine anywhere to buy the recycled Pla only Abs, or is that just me!
They visited me last week so I asked about the recycled PLA and they said its coming.
They just havent reached the critical mass in returns yet needed to produce wire in necessary quantities.
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Use "Save to file" instead of "print over network", then you have the g-code in a text file.
What's special about carbon fiber PLA?
in Materials & profiles
Posted · Edited by AndersK
Reinforced nylon has about 15% higher tensile strength but only about 25% elongation at break compared to 45% for regular nylon.
Regular PETG has very similar mechanical properties as reinforced nylon.
Haven't seen the data sheet for reinforced petg yet but it is strong and stiff.
Have printed pressure vessels tested up to 5MPa without cracking and with very limited deformation.
Carbon fiber also increase the temperature range and makes it less prone to warping.
I was also pleased to find the carbon petg could be printed on glass without chipping it and very easy to remove.