Carla_Birch
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Carla_Birch
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The fan cover on the S5 does open very easy, but i think its a catch 22 you want it to open easy so you not pulling hard on the print head but at same time you don't want it to be to easy, never had a problem with mine coming open mid print but if its a worry print self something off like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2658960
As for PVA i not had a problem but when i start to hear it pop and the printed color goes less clear also i then cook it at 45c for at lest 4 hours in a food dehydrator before i start my next print and keep in in a air tight tub when not in use.
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A image of the model without the supports would be handy, no one can see whats going on behind the supports.
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From what I can tell with the sensor it knows when the flow of filament stops at the hot end so by that when you run out it will be soon as the end goes past the feeder as it’s no longer being pushed so you are left with filament in the tube. That’s what it was for me when I run out one night what saved a day long print as I run out at like 90% done so was a life saver
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The filament sensor is ever so handy, i run prints that are over a day long sometimes why i'm at work or in bed sleeping so the print stopping due to filament running out or snapping and me being able to start it off again. not only saves time but could save you a lot of filament what if you sell stuff will means you still make the planned money from the print.
Build size is something that can also be very handy, but if goes by what type of things you print, if you only ever print small items then the extra size will never be used, but if you never know what you might be printing then that extra size is real good to have so you might not have to cut and join a part like might have been case with a smaller size.
Bed leveling i have found to be great and as been giving me perfect first layers over and over, i just make sure from time to time i do a normal bed leveling myself so the auto level is not having to do as much.
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29 minutes ago, SandervG said:
Hi @Carla_Birch, that you ordered them via NL does it mean you could not get them via your reseller?
The reseller was looking into how long it would take to get hold of them as they don’t stock them, so I just ordered from NL as they come within a few days anyway ?
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If this is the pulsing LED when a print is done you on about then you go to settings on the printer, then frame light and then turn off "Glow when print is complete"
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I’m sure I have turned the Pulsing LED light off for when prints are done on my S5 so when I’m home and back with the printer i’ll check just where the setting was. I think it might have been a setting within Cura itself, but it was one the very first things I turned off when first got printer and was checking all settings in Cura and on printer.
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Shame can not make own NFC stickers to stick on aftermarket rolls or just stick on spool holder if using a dry box.
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1 minute ago, cloakfiend said:
An entirely off option would be nice though at leat on the frame! As when all the lights are out in the house thats the only thing burglars will see! ?
They do go almost off to be true i think when i turn mine down at night, side effect of them being totally off would be the camera would be of no use in the dark.
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You should be good to use the PVA long you dry it out before you use it, not sure how quick it will take to absorb the water again due to being humid where you are, but is many ways to help stop it from happening, like putting a dehumidifier in the same room as the printer to making self something to in case your filament in on the machine itself.
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In that kind of humid i would make sure you dry it out for a good 4 hours before you start a print and once done with the print, take it right off the printer and store it in a air tight tub. For PVA in a food dehydrator you want to set it to 45C (113F) and as i say a good 4 hour.
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I would say you need to dry your PVA out, PVA loves to absorb water out of the air and that is the popping sound you hear when using it, its water. You will also run into problems with it not feeding because it becomes soft and the feeder can not feed it and that why the printer says its empty.
Follow this: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52682-how-to-dry-pva
Or what i personally have done is got a food dehydrator and cut the mesh out some the racks so i can fit my filament in it to dry out and then when not in use with PVA make sure you store it right in a air tight bag/tub with a desiccant packet.
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My 2 new glass build plates come today from https://www.makerpoint.nl and cost £76.78 and thats with postage also what was fast as i did not order to Wed after none around 16:30 and they just come on Sat.
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As @gr5 said, you go to settings under the 3rd icon on the touch screen (its a cog icon) and pick settings and then scroll down to frame light, You can also dim the LED display screen also, i dim both to the min setting when the printer is left running over night.
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1 hour ago, ultiarjan said:
I picked up an original Ultimaker S5 glassplate last Saturday at Makerpoint;
Hey, many thanks for that. Totally did not think to look at other places within the EU. Have just ordered a few ?
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Yeah that’s why I want a replacement for because I take it off the printer why it cools and put another in to start printing the next item on my other printers. Hopefully they will be able to get some.
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Yeah I have sent one of them a email where I got the printer from asking as none of them list the part on the site and they are getting back to me ?
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Hi does anyone know where you can buy replacement glass build plates from for the Ultimaker S5 in the UK?
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By default the print speed for say PLA is 45 mm/s, Ultimaker have Cura set at that speed to give a better print. Most other software and printers default to 60-70 mm/s, that's one the first settings you can tweak and most parts will still print out just fine and can say you hours.
Using both extruders will add extra time also due to having to move to left one core up and then other back, so if you don't need say PVA supports and happy to just use PLA supports then just use the one.
Shell count is also something you might be able to cut back on for top and bottom layers and wall thickness, this will also save on filament.
So basically do a bit of testing to see just what settings you can get away with why still getting a print you are happy with.
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Personally i don't use the Wifi on mine, because right now it has to many drop outs where the printer still thinks its linked to my network but cura and the app don't find it. So I'm hard wired and get no problems at all now. I would say if you can have it hard wired, if not look at Wifi Bridge Dongles, that make a wifi bridge from the ethernet port.
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14 minutes ago, Huxster2000 said:
Is that 0.1mm layer height or nozzle size?
Layer height with a 0.4 nozzle
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49 minutes ago, Huxster2000 said:
Does anyone here know if its possible to print a functional internal M8 thread on the 5s' highest resolution?
Have not tired on my S5 yet but I have done so on my flashforge printers a number of times and it works and that was at 0.10
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On 9/5/2018 at 10:12 AM, Bigbrit said:
I'll let you know as whatever it is is out for delivery today.
Did you get anything from the post?
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53 minutes ago, Bigbrit said:
I just had an email saying my Ultimaker parcel is due to be delivered tomorrow!
Are you guys shipping the aluminium build plates?
That be cool if it is, only got my S5 on Sat and filled in the form for the build plate right away so mine might be a bit away going by how many they have got made. Hopefully it is.
Talking build plates as anyone got a idea where replacement glass beds can be got within the UK? I like to have a backup one to swap out why a print cools an that.
New S5 - Problem with Supplied PVA and nozzle cover
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
They meant this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2688672