Jump to content

Carla_Birch

Member
  • Posts

    429
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Posts posted by Carla_Birch

  1. 12 hours ago, Imperator said:

    I did reset everything after update. Problem is, the in the Printer Setup Menu the Option WiFi ist not able to activate. It is grey color. Only Ethernet can be turned on/off. So I have no chance to activate Wifi Setup. It ist not a Problem during working with WiFi. Since Update, I can not activate WiFi in the Setup Menu.

     

    thanks 😉

     

    Christoph

    When you turn Ethernet off, can you then turn on the Wifi?

  2. 3 hours ago, Imperator said:

    Thank´s, of course I use blob and skirt, but since the update, this ist not enought. I must manualy feed the filamet to the core before each print ;-(

     

    I understand, you use 5.4.2 without any WiFi problems?

     

    Thanks, Christoph

    I’m using WiFi but it does seem to have small drop outs, I have spotted sometimes the app will not find the printer or will lose it but then it don’t take found till it finds it.


    Cura is the same sometimes the send print via network will turn to save as file for a number of secs, not really anything that’s stopping me from using the printer.

     

    also seen that when import model into Cura it pops up a message saying the models been edited and do you want to reload it but that’s more a Cura big with latest version and you just let it go away from the screen.

     

    Did you do a reset at all after the firmware update btw? I make it a habit to do a Cura connect reset after I update firmware, note you will lose your print queue when you do it.

  3. For 2) I personally i always have it print a prime blob and skirt, that way you know you always get good flow on the first layer.

    For 1) my S5 is printing right now so can not see of mines the same, but it does seem like it drops in and out abit.

  4. I have had my S5 from not longer after they come out and have never had a problem with the printer. For accuracy it really a matter of how close do you need the part to be to the model, you as melting plastic so that will always affect the accuracy somewhat even from brand to brand of filament.

     

    I think @SandervG posted not long ago some settings for better accuracy prints also.

  5. I personally have 4 glass plates for my S5, 1 i keep as a spare should one break or chip. The other 3 i print with, 1 in the printer printing, one with the last print on cooling down to be removed and the other all clean and ready to go in the printer when the next prints done.

    • Like 1
  6. 2 hours ago, Smithy said:

    PreFeeders and filament sensors are installed in the material station. When the filament runs out, it is already detected in the material station and the feeder pulls the filament back completely. So it is the same behavior as when you do it manually without the material station.

    Do you know where the pulled back filament ends up at? Sometimes on my S5 it takes a few goes to get the filament past the feeder wheel and into the tube with the testion off the filament, my worry is how well can it unload and load the filament when it looks like the station as no way to lift the bar to take the testion off the filament feeder wheel.

  7. @SandervG About the filament station, When a filament runs out and it swaps spools, what happens to the filament thats already past the feeder?

     

    I'm also worried that if i got a few prints lined up and some are PLA and others say Nylon, again what happens to the filament already in the tubes past the feeder wheel? because i guess the filament is swapped inside the filament station so thats alot of filament left in the tube that needs to go somewhere?

  8. 15 minutes ago, ctbeke said:

     

    From the top of my head, the differences with UM3 are:

     

    * Multi-point bed leveling (resulting is better 1st layer adhesion)

    * Glass door to prevent (most) air draft

    * Filament flow sensor

    * Hardened feeder wheel to support abrasive materials (thus supporting the CC Red Print Core)

    * Trinamic stepper drivers (same as S5), so much quieter while printing

    * Improved feeder lever (instead of that kinda hard-to-use force push button)

    * Touch screen interface (after working with it compared to the old click wheel you really don't wanna go back...)

    * Improved gantry to support the full build volume with both print cores

    * Integrated power supply (no more messy power brick somewhere around your printer)

    * Higher EMC class rating due to improved electronics (safer for certain environments)

    * Stiffer build plate gantry and wider diameter X/Y axis

    * Improved print head (same as S5, which was an iteration on top of the UM3 head)

    * Slightly different side panels and screws (cleaner finish)

    * A UMB port to support possible future hardware add-ons

     

    I'll leave it up to the market to decide if this justifies the price point 😛

     

    Yeps, i personally love my S5 and hoping to get a 2nd one some time next year to ease some the printing load on my first thats running almost 24/7 all the time.

     

    I might get temped by the S3 later down the line to replace my old Flashforge Dreamer what was the first printer i got. I want to keep atlest one of my 1.75mm printers just because of the extra range of filaments you can get. Would love to see Ultimaker make a printer that supported 1.75

    • Like 1
  9. 48 minutes ago, kazl said:

     

    The entire announcement is... shockingly bad. For $900 more Ultimaker is giving you a touch screen and a feed sensor. Is there anything else? 
     

     

    Better leveling same as the S5 and i would say its also got the harded extruder so the CC cores can be used without wearing down the extruder gears.

     

    The build size is a bit wider but then you lose some of the depth what i do find a little odd, should have atlest matched the U3 

  10. 18 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    I would be curious to see what the spool bay dimensions are and if 3rd party spools will fit nicely. I guess, basically, spool width capability.

    Looking at the promo video they seem to have a good bit of space each side of them so most 1kg spools you would hope will fit, would be a big oversight if only Ultimakers fitted.

  11. 1 hour ago, mayo77 said:

     

    Thanks yeah i have read that too the only problem with that specific filament from what i have gathered through the specs sheet/reviews online, is its meant to be used with a .6 or larger nozzle.I only have a .4 mm nozzle so im not sure this is my solution for my setup. I am now considering esun carbon fiber or maybe fiber force but fiber force is really expensive for small rolls, and not sure if its worth it but it apparently works well with smaller nozzles.

     

    Yup got many replacement steel teeth for my feeder onhand and an olsson ruby nozzle as mentioned earlier in this post. I think that should work out, but i really have no experience first hand on this subject, its all been just research so please, correct me if I'm wrong. IS the bond tech feeder really required?

     

    Keep in mind most CF or glass filled filaments print better with a nozzle of 0.5 or bigger. With a 0.4 you might run into problems with blocked nozzles over a long print due to the added fibers in the filament.

  12. 13 hours ago, ScanHD said:

    You could try using a raft? 

    Also it's important to let the print cool. I run mine under water and they release ok.

    I always let my prints cool 🙂 it just sticks way to good to the glass, i'll back off the first layer so its pushed down less.

  13. I got some of the matte grey again and i face the same problem i had with my old 1.75mm printers when i tired it and that is it sticks far to well to the glass and you end up 1) breaking the part getting them all or 2) clip the glass.

     

    Have people been using normal PLA settings with it? I have my initial layer height set at 0.2mm i think i might try 0.15 but i worry about chipping the glass keeping on using it.

×
×
  • Create New...