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Carla_Birch

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  • Field of Work
    Other
  • Country
    GB
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5

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  1. I tired it back when it was kickstarter and the stuff sticks and eats into glass build beds so keep that in mind, it had taken lumps out of the glass bed on one my flashforge printers when i used it.
  2. Best way to get better clearance is to dial in your flow rate and speed more, but you have to keep in mind you dealing with plastic that shrinks when cools and each type/brand might shrink more than another. But i do find personally myself that 0.4-0.5 is the normal clearance needed for pla.
  3. Not yet, will email them in morning, the 0.4 nozzle it levels fine, but any the others it ends up to close to the glass and blocks flow. only think i edit in Cura is the line width eg if using the 0.6 i put line width at 0.55 so not sure if it don't sit right
  4. I got an 3dsolex hardcore today for my Ultimaker S5 but i'm facing a problem where it seems on the auto level that the core seems to push into the glass more than the stock cores, so after the auto level is done, the nozzle is to close to the glass to be able to print the first layer and then as you can guess drags the next once a layer is down. Anyone have any ideas? I'm guessing its something to do with the core being able to go up and down not as easy as stock cores and thats why its pushing more into the glass?
  5. I found that when i updated to 4.1 that all my materials profiles i had made for filaments went, reinstalling the past 4.0 version they come back.
  6. Personally i try to make sure i have the filament needed on a spool for a print and when my spool gets to the where its likely no good to do a big print with i swap the spool and save the filament for doing little small prints with with the filament not on a spool. Cura is good at saying what filament if needed to do a print so i try and make use of that information to make sure i have the needed filament left on the spool. When i do have to change filament mid print i always try and do so when the infill is printing, so any break in filament feed is on the inside of the print and does not show on the outside.
  7. I think with the last update the prime blob was edited a bit in how it works so it does seem to drag a bit of filament across the build plate now. It really could do with lifting the head more when it primes so that it don't get filament stuck all over the nozzle what then drags some across. Maybe @SandervG could pass the feedback on to the right team members.
  8. Still using the one that come with my S5 here and it's still fine and i have 108 days of run time on the printer. It's likely you are using prime blobs at the start and you get left with a bit of filament on the cover around the nozzle due to how the prime blob works. So without seeing any image i would say its just burnt filament what you can just clean off.
  9. Just a quick one, but does anyone here own a cover with HEPA filter for the Ultimaker S5, i have been looking at the following one and was hoping maybe someone here owns the same one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultitop-S5-Drucker-Abdeckung-fur-Ultimaker-S5-3D-Drucker-COVER-mit-HEPA-Filter/264253386456? Many thanks.
  10. Yep the rare times (2 times) i have come across this problem i have cleaned the printhead out, feeders and also taken the bowden tubes out from printhead and made sure to push them back in tight again also. Keeping a printer clean makes for a happy printer, defo the front fan that sucks in a lot of fine hair like plastic that also then gets all over the print cores. This is why the printer maintenance tasks have you clean the printer every month and the print cores every 3 months. Keeping on top of them tasks @nano-l is something to try and make a habit of checking and doing if you do not do so already.
  11. Sometimes taking the print core out and cleaning the inside of the print head out and putting the print core back in will fix the false empty material warnings. Had to do this myself the other week.
  12. My S5 prints fine and as been from day one, you got to keep in mind that the Cura settings are not a one fits all jobs, going by the model you will need to edit settings. Looking at the model you got fine walls with cut outs, you will need to slow down the print speed to stop ghosting, also because the walls are thin you don't want a infill but you want to edit the settings so its just printing walls, because printing a infill will make a lot of vibration on walls that thin. Also the part don't look that big so i don't know why your print times so long, was you printing with PLA and PVA support? If so you can greatly lower print time by using a mix of PLA support with just PVA Roof, saves a lot of time and PVA because looking at the images all support you can access so you don't need full PVA if you was using it.
  13. I have personally been keeping to Cura with my S5, just seems to work better because it was designed for it. S3D feels a bit like a hacked up way to just get the basics working. Why i do miss how supports work in S3D i have just leant to get use to using the support blocker in Cura.
  14. Contacted 3DGBIRE and they say they don’t have the plates and it’s still being discussed far they know.
  15. Hi @SandervG, Have still not heard anything about the glass plate, should i contact the company who i got the printer from?
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