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Carla_Birch

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Carla_Birch last won the day on September 16

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  1. I personally have all the lights off on mine, they are in a front room that over looks open land so if they are on they light up the room for everyone to see walking along the foot paths. Plus i have little need for them to be on. But it would be nice if you could temp turn them on when viewing the camera, because i'll sometimes check in on a print when the rooms dark and with the lights off you can not see anything.
  2. Your top layer paths should really overlap into each other, so you got a soild layer, so something needs to be tweaked
  3. It could be a few things, whats your print speed btw? It could be your over all print speed is to much, but i think you have another problem looking at the top layer of the base i can see that the paths are not all joined to each other and you got gaps between them. This could be filament size settings, line width settings and filament flow. If you go to file and save project you be able to upload your 3MF file to the post and this will let people see your full settings.
  4. What filament types are you using? If for EG you are using PVA and the printer as been left for 6 weeks with the PVA spool on it, you will for sure need to dry out the PVA because it will have become wet and that would also make problems with the flow sensor due to the PVA being wet and not flowing right. When you get the error, is the number 2 print core in the down or up placement, this will help limit the sensor error to just one print core side, if the error always happens with the number 2 print core nozzle being in the same placement.
  5. More big cosplay prop swords, this ones from Final Fantasy XIV for a friend.
  6. What profiles did you use in Cura to print the items with on the S5 and in what way did they fail? 3 times don't sound like many try's if you have never taken the time to dail all the settings in right to be true.
  7. 1) The PolyBox looks great but it seems to only offer passive de-humidification. Is there perhaps a model that is active drying yet still affordable? eSun make one, for single spools but to be true it was not that great, how the lid shuts its not very air tight, so i guess you could mod an Polybox to place a heat pad in the bottom of it or something. But my PolyBox to be true kept my PVA good for weeks, then i would dry it over night. But my room is not very humid. 2) How well has your machine dealt with flexible filament? Lets say the UM TPU 95A. I know a lot of people swear
  8. Far as i know you can not do that, but it would be could if you could.
  9. Yes, you can pick to have the support supports as PLA and the floor and roofs of the support in PVA, so only the support parts that make contact with a print is PVA what saves a lot of PVA use and then also cost. But keep in mind you need to be able to get in to remove the PLA parts of the supports, so thats something that you need to think about each print.
  10. 1) How realistic is the uptime of this printer? Lets talk specifically PLA & PVA. Both from Ultimaker. Does it really actually print flawlessly and very reliably? Or, is there actually still a lot of tinkering and problem prone processes that need to be navigated? For instance here is an article where a test reviewer encountered problems with a false-positive "out of filament warning" every-time they printed with PVA. Apartfrom cleaning the printer out from time to time, and doing the normal oil of rods and stuff i have had like 99% up time in the past two/three years and my pr
  11. When you said you had the flow set to 100% and it started to skip steps, have you checked the Vref of the extruder stepper motor at all to check it’s getting the right power? I don’t have a ender so I can not really say for sure just what the Vref should be set around for it, but if it’s to low it can make it skip steps when trying to push the filament out.
  12. If you got a 0.4 nozzle i would have line width set to 0.4 or a little lower like 0.38. For flow i would try it at 100% to see if the gaps get smaller. Why you might have calibrated the flow rate, so items you print need settings tweaked for them.
  13. @evTOM That can be down to a number of settings to be true. Some common ones to try to play with are: Skin Overlap Percentage (How much the skin overlaps into the wall path) Line Width (You can make the line width a little bit wider so its more likely to close the gaps) Flow (Could be to low so you not getting the true Line Width you have set) Retraction (Could not be set right so when its doing small paths its not starting off right away) I would personally play with the Skin Overlap and Line Width settings first.
  14. They are basically the same, apart from build size. But keep in mind the S5 you can also get official Ultimaker Air Manager & Material Station, where of right now the S3 don't have any official ones.
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