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  1. The part looks small, so it be doing a lot of short movements at that point and the layers below might not be getting time to cool down right, in Cura you got a setting for min layer time, make this higher and the printer will stop after a layer till the min time in sec is hit that you set, this will give time for the layers below to cool and can help.
  2. Really don't think that's needed. The error will always be for the core that was active at the time of the error is given. So whatever core is lowest it the core thats given the error, in other words if core 2 is in the down placement than its that core, if core 2 is in the up placement then its core 1.
  3. This is how i have mine done, i drilled the holes out in the box with a step drill and added some real fixings to it as i found the PTFE would move and start to wrap around the spool in the box. Only other thing I'm doing, is I'm going add a PVC tube that clips into the box lid also as again i found with PVA filament it ends up pulling the spool off the rollers, so making some bits to fix in the lid so it keeps the spools in place. .
  4. My understanding is it extrudes filament as the end to make a tip on the end of the filament so that it s able to feed in and out from the feeder without blobs getting broke off inside and making it unable to load again. It's also why other brand of filaments need to be confirmed because the process needed for other brands might not be 100% the same to make a nice tip.
  5. CC 0.6 core would be better for any filament that as a fill in it, not only would the copper wear the AA core fast, you also higher the risk of getting a blockage because most filaments with a fill in them are better with 0.5 or above nozzle size due to the little parts inside the filament that makes up the fill.
  6. I would say its best to download Cura and add your own stl's and slice to see the times, thats the best way to get a real understanding. You don't need to own the printer to be able to do this 🙂
  7. Why are you picking to abort the print on the material run out? If its a false reading you can pick to carry on printing/ turn the sensor off and then when the prints done. Turn it back on and look into why you getting a false run out (tension wrong on feeder/ filament wet/ feeder needing a clean). When you abort a print, you got to wait for it to cool down the build plate so its safe to remove, now if you printing at a high temp with a hot build plate thats going take sometime and when cool it asks you to confirm the prints removed. Maybe your turning the printer off why its still cooling down? If not you could always factory reset from the printers menu.
  8. Looking at your settings, your nozzle seems to be a 0.4 nozzle going by the normal print line width settings you have. But i see you are going with a line width starting from 0.8 with the setting " Skirt/Brim Line Width:" what in the settings above you got last set at 1.5. This means your asking the printer to make a single line thats 0.8-1.5mm wide when you only have a nozzle thats 0.4 wide. So set the " Skirt/Brim Line Width" setting to between 0.35 - 0.4 Also just to add, if you want a wider brim, you edit the "Brim Width" setting.
  9. Picking to "Duplicate" the basic PLA profile and editing the brand to eSun fixed the problem and still give me the same sorting i was after. Problem was because last time it was not "linked" to the main PLA profile.
  10. Hi, This is more a little something that bugs me because i know you can override the setting, But when you make a custom material profile in Cura and use it and then go to print i get a message saying i need to change the material. My profile is a PLA profile and i select PLA when loading the S5 but i still get the message so i have to always override it. Is there anything i'm missing that i should be doing that is making the message come up?
  11. If the PVA is brittle i would personally try drying it out as it can take on water very fast, this is why i store mine in a polybox and print from it. First up i would give the feeder a good clean inside if you been having a problem with PVA, because you find all little bits inside. then with a dry out spool or another new fresh open spool load it up and do some test prints. For the tension its kinda a guess work deal to be true, you don't want it to tight where its digging in what could snap the filament but then you don't want it to loose where it could slip and dig a chunk out of the filament and stop feeding. So it's one of them where you need to look at some the filament from out the tube and see what the grip marks are like on it.
  12. Rebooting the group host printer has made the firmware update notice go away on the 2nd printer in the group.
  13. My printer is using the stable firmware already and i can not see any other settings apart from to update to latest firmware what the printer is already on.
  14. Will take a look into it thanks, in a few days when the print is done thats running now 🙂
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