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Carla_Birch last won the day on September 16 2020

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  1. No real need for a replacement, you can reprogram the printcore using the printer itself and ssh commands using software like putty on Windows or terminal on Mac. Set printer into developer mode and make sure its linked to your network that the computer is on also. In putty type: ultimaker@ ( edit this to match the printers network ip address what can be seen on the printers network display screen if unsure) username/password is: ultimaker/ultimaker (so just ultimaker for both) AA 0.4 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141sendgcode M
  2. They will be no damage to the print if you pause a print and restart it, sometimes you might get a thin line on the print where filament as pushed out a little to much on restart. With what you are wanting to do, it might be worth you looking into the Material Station as what you are wanting to do is what that is designed for.
  3. out the box Cura hides alot of settings, you can pick to view all settings by clicking on the menu icon next to the settings search box, you can also type in "Minimum support area" in the settings search box also to fine it and it will be in the support part of the settings.
  4. e-Sun PLA is normally PLA+ filament what means you need to print at a higher temp than normal PLA. So up the printing temp up to say 215c has a starting base temp.
  5. Hi, I had this problem before on one of my S5's and when the ben lowered i would hear it make like a knocking sound i had never heard before (it started to make the same sound when it was doing auto leveling at the start also). It turned out that the z limit switch at the bottom of the z was to low and the print bed was hitting bottom before the limit switch fully what meant it was not getting the same z=0 each time. So i lossen the limit switch off and made sure it was as high as it could go and then tighten it back up, my guess is i might have knocked it w
  6. Yep it does and it's a print saver for sure, a few times i have run out of filament or filament as snapped and it's saved me from a failed print that had been going for days.
  7. I always find it best to find the route of a problem, so having to abort a print due to a failed print or anything error to me mean finding out why you had a fail/error and first fixing that. To me you should hardly never need to abort a started print on the S printers unless you having a failed print.
  8. If the bowdon tube is coming out the feeder itself, then the coupling collet itself might be damaged (most likely the teeth inside that grip the bowdon tube) Without having a spare collet or being able to see any damage next to others, you could try swapping it with another on the printer and then if the bowdon starts to come free at the place you swapped the collet with now then that would make it highly likely its the collet. It's also worth maybe trying another spool of filament, incase you just got a bad spool of PLA. I see you using the cura settings for visual, di
  9. First off its worth trying to cut off around 4-5mm of the bowden tube on the end where it comes out because they can wear so the collet does not grip right if you remove the bowden alot of cleaning the print cores for EG. I would also check the collet itself as the teeth can sometimes be worn or damaged, so a new collet could be needed, some people also print a little thicker clip that goes under he collet to make it grip the bowden tigher.
  10. You can replace the nozzle itself in the printcore, but it does come with the risk of breaking the printcore if you are not careful. https://www.3djake.uk/micro-swiss/coated-nozzle-for-ultimaker-3?sai=6115
  11. Thats underextrusion yes, does the same filament print fine with the same settings if you use another AA core? If so i would say that the AA core might need to run a clean on it a few times as it could be its got something really burnt and stuck to the inside, do you use the cleaning filament or pla? i find the ultimaker cleaning filament to be much better at giving a deep clean. It's also a good idea to make sure the outside of the nozzle is clean also.
  12. If you really wanted to go back to PEI btw, buildtak make it for the S5 with there flexplate system: https://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-flexplate-system/
  13. When using a glue stick, it's best to make like a grid layout with the glue stick and then get a damp cloth and rub it over the spread the glue out so its a nice thin coating. They don't use the damp cloth in that to spread it because they joined all the glue lines up. Personally i use sprays like 3DLac in my printers because its just more easy and i feel works better also.
  14. I don’t use it with the palette I got it mostly because 1.75mm have a bigger range of filament and also because I had a number of spool left from a old printer. So it was mostly to give me a wider range of filaments. But it was very easy to change to and from 2.85 and 1.75 and back again.
  15. What layer heights are you printing at and what temps? This is my break away settings for 0.15mm layers on my S3 Even know the ABS is printing fine, i would still clean out the nozzle if you have not done so as some filaments are more sticky then others.
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