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Carla_Birch

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Carla_Birch last won the day on September 16 2020

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  1. I have never had the problem where it seems down to the temp of the printer, normally its due to other devices in the area of the printer making interference for the sensor. Check the wires inside the print head from the sensor board are all fine and that it's plugged into the back of the print head fine (unplug it and plug it back in again). The sensor is the whiteboard you see when you drop down the print head front fan to access the print cores and you will see 2 metal pins in the center of it, check they are all fine and not lose. If the problem remains and all the
  2. Maybe @fbrc8-erin as come across this problem before that you are having and she might know of some things to try.
  3. I would say so yes, because it resets all settings, so better to do them again to be safe.
  4. I would personally try a factory set on the printer. To do this go to the printers menu and pick settings - settings - and reset both "reset all printer settings" & "reset digital factory". If that don't work then maybe (If its able to be done) reinstalling the firmware might do the trick, hopefully someone here knows if this can be done and how to. But with luck doing the resets above will sort it.
  5. Have you done a factory reset on the printer? I know you said you restarted, but not sure if you meant a power cycle or a full factory reset.
  6. V5 was meant to be out over a year ago and they have yet to even say what new features it will have or anything and have a thing of removing posts when people ask about whats going on. They have given about two updates in the past few year that just say they are working on it. So for most people they view it as dead as they can not even tell people whats going on and hint at what they can look forward to.
  7. I use a mix of PLA and Breakaway Top/bottom interface layers as my supports as it greatly cuts down on cost and usage of Breakaway and to help support the Breakway top layer i have support infill set to 50% but have "gradual support infill steps" set to "2", this means i don't have much PLA support % till the final 1mm where it steps to make a 50% infill base for the Breakway to print onto, what helps greatly. The setting "Support Horizontal Expansion" can help with PVA also and that's why when you use just PVA that setting is set to 2 i think it is.
  8. It's on the printers menu: Settings - Maintenance - Print Head - Print Core Cleaning, then follow what it says on the screen 🙂 I always clean mine from time to time because dirt and burnt filament gets stuck on the inside from time to time, when i used PVA i would personally dry the filament first before using it, i would still do this even if i had the material station, as its my understand it does not dry filament out thats already wet, it just helps to keep it from getting wet and it has to be on 24/7.
  9. PVA is a tricky filament to get printing, it really can take in water fast. So even a brand new spool might not be as dry as you think, so it's best to always dry it out first and then print it from a dry box, something like the polybox. You can dry the PVA folllowing this guide: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012057799-How-to-dry-Ultimaker-PVA Or better yet get a Food Dehydrator, so you can be drying filament out why still being able to print with your printer. It's also worth cleaning the BB core out just incase you got a part blockage of the
  10. All sounds normal, i found after so long a small bit of the magnalube that ome with the printer on the moving parts of the lift switch along with doing a recalibrate of it really helps to remove that click sound.
  11. I think moving the print head by hand in that manner would make the print head move, the big question is does normal use of the printer printing make the printhead move and give bad prints? I think printing would give far less movment forces on the printhead so it would not be a problem, mine's printing right now so i can not test, but i seem to recall both my S5's and S3 have a small movement if moved by hand but all 3 print totally fine.
  12. They don't seem to sell one thats the same size (260 x 354) but you could buy one that is a bit bigger and cut it down to size, would be easy to stick on the build plate or even the glass and then just cut around the edge with a shape craft knife (cutting away from self as prints i dont think would stick to blood well). Never personally used them myself because i like the smooth underside that glass gives.
  13. Ultimaker have adhesion sheet's for the S5 that stick onto the glass, so using other sheets and that should not be a problem. I know some have swapped to magnetic build plates for the S5 that also have textured sheets on them. Buildtak make a magnetic system for the S5 that comes with PEI sheets: https://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-flexplate-system/
  14. You want a heat gun or something where you can control the heat, to warm up the plastic partly melt it again so you can then pull it off with something. Just being carful of any wires and that. I would say it's likely a print failed also what can make parts get stuck to the nozzle and drag around the the printer when forces filament back up under the nozzle cover.
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