Cymon

Yes, you are right. They are not tightened all the way and still have more than enough flex. I am not new to 3D-printing. ;) I should have mentioned, tight as possible means as possible as my big fingers are able to turn those tiny flat screw heads before they are erasing my fingerprints. :D As I said, the link from Smithy and others state to turn the bed down a lot, so the bed doesn't push the nozzle in and only touches them. This is the case now. Ok, I couldn't wait anymore and brought a flash drive with FW 5.2.11 on it with me today. Long story short: it didn't work because printer says the FW can't be verified. I downloaded it directly from the Ultimaker Website with a Ubuntu Linux computer and put the file directly onto the flash drive. After that, I did a factory reset of the printer, but it showed the same error after that. A quick search here in the community brings up a possible issue with the timestamps, could this be the error?

Ok, I did not know that. Thank you! I will contact them and see, if they have any idea. @Smithy No, they did not. But I don't want to risk my just started job here by bringing a private flash drive and connecting it to company hardware.... I will reconsider that in a night of sleep. 😉

Hello Smithy! Yes, I'm from Germany. I like to post problems like this in English, so the possible solutions will be available international. As I said, the 14 mm distance in the link is not measurable with the S5 carrier. He measures from the top of the bottom carrier plate to the underside of the heatplate underneath the glass plate. I can only measure the overall thickness of the whole thing, which is exactly 30 mm from the underside of the carrier to the top of the glass plate. We purchased the printer from myprintoo, another official reseller. I already contacted their technician, of course. But he also has not really a clue. Next step mentioned by the technician will be re-installing the firmware via USB flash drive, but for that I have to fight myself through the instances of the IT-department, which has a deep grown fear of USB flash drives..... If that doesn't help, I will make them replace the whole printer.

Hello Smithy! Thank you for your answer. I read about this topic before and then proceeded to manually level the build plate so that the bed screws are tightened as much as possible. Unfortunately, the tool from your link can't be used on the S5, because the carrier is not open to the sides as the one in the pictures. It's curved upwards like in the front also on the sides. Anyways, our build plate height looks exactly like on the "how it should be" picture in your link. But what I noticed when controlling this a moment ago is that the glass plate is closer to the carrier on the right than on the left side. Manual leveling turns out fine, but the difference is still there, though it is only like 0.2 mm, but it's there.

Before I switched the company, I worked with a UM2+ and a UM2Extended+ in the old company and we removed the glass plate after every print and only did leveling every 20 prints or something like that. We never had any issues and as this was the first UM encounter for me I was really amazed by how the UMs keep being leveled over this long time. Please don't misunderstand me, I think the auto level feature is great and I know how much time and effort it takes to develop something like that. It's very useful and as Link also said the best auto level I know, but the argument why the user can't switch it off just because "manual level is more crucial and difficult with bigger volume" is quite a weak one in my opinion. Anyways, that's not the topic of this thread and I will keep you updated in my thread about the issue. Keep up the good work! :)

Given that there are multiple threads complaining about the autolevel not working on the UM S5 and UM3 (including our S5, see below) doesn't speak for reliability. At the moment I'm counting on it being a firmware bug and I can work around by switching the printer off and on again, but that's not really worth the money spent... Also, when giving the customer the opportunity to turn AL off they are responsible for successful large prints. Why don't you just say "fine, if you want to level by hand you can't blame us when your large print fails, just turn it on again", what is the problem with that? By the way, I am printing with a slightly but proven to be bend glass plate at home for almost two years and nothing has failed. If you engineered the bed carrier the right way (unlike those chinese people who invented my printer, which is the case as I can judge from what I see) and the manufacturer of your glass beds is not completely unfit, there should be no problems ever. There are some other negative points with the S5, which I didn't expect from a high quality printer like that. But going back to the topic of this thread, I think a other-material build plate would be the next logical step to make the Ultimaker printers defending their place on the market. Printing on pure glass and having to fumble around with glue, tape or hairspray is not state of the art in 3D-printing anymore as there are many manufacturers who provide way better solutions for little money.

Hello community, we recently got a brand new UM S5 in our company which now begins to show weird behavior... After firing up the first time it updated to 5.2.11 and printed its first 70 print jobs without problems. But now it constantly produces auto leveling errors, but beginning with the second print of the day. So, first print of the day works great every time, then auto level error every time. There are three different behaviors causing the error: - glass plate not touching printcore 2 (stopping like 10 mm underneath it), but touching the first PC: error - glass plate touching PC2, but stops 10 mm underneath PC1: error - glass plate not touching PC2 and PC1, but starting auto level anyways, just to cancel after 2 points: then error EDIT: The automatic print job restart, that the printer is doing by itself after an error is also failing every time. When I shut off and restart the printer completely, the first job prints flawlessly. But then the errors above start again... Even more weird is, that the sensor test in the maintenance menu says the sensor works totally fine. But when I start a print job right after that, the errors still happen. What I tried already: - changing out the printcores, no effect - changing the material, no effect - check for loose cables of the sensor (red and white one), they are tight, no effect - moving every piece of electronics like computer and cellphones away from the printer, no effect Do you have any more ideas? Is the sensor broken, even though the test says it's fine? Is it a software bug? Thank you in advance! Greetings, Cymon