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Gero

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Posts posted by Gero

  1. 2 minutes ago, JPCustomPrints said:

    hello there! i'm having a little trouble with cura 5.0. i'm printing a ring part for a keychain. i've been printing this for a while now using cura 4.13. today i used cura 5.0 and this is what i got.. i think it under-extrudes when it starts the layer. i checked in cura preview and the spot where there are under extrusions are spots where the layer starts. I'm using the same profile on both slicer. (on the second pic, the right one is the one sliced using 4.13 and the 2 on the right are the ones sliced using 5.0)

     

    this is due to the change in cura 5.0 where the outermost wall is printed before the inner walls. 
    The only reason I can see for this change is a higher dimensional accuracy in theory. 
    The problem, however, is that when printing multiple parts, for most materials except PLA or parts with longer travel moves, the full desired material flow in the nozzle is not immediately achieved after a retraction, which in turn leads to underextrusion. 

     

    i have yet to see a more detailed statement on this from ultimaker itself. 

     

    in the meantime, many users already seem to reverse this setting, simply because the sequence "inner walls before outer wall" makes more sense in practical use. This setting can be found under the "walls" tab and is called "wall odering".

    • Like 3
  2. There is no feature to turn the skin before the walls. The skin layers are printed best after the walls. I would say that you might have some adhesion issues here.

    I have to option in mind here: try some settings to make the adhesion for the first layer easier. Try a higher first line height (like 0.25mm) and an increased first layer with (like 120%). Print the first layer slow (20 or even 15mm/s). I kinda guess from experience that your nozzle is carrying the first printed hole line away?

     

    Second idea: remove the bottom layers (by setting them to 0) and check infill before the walls. This way you might not have a 100% solid bottom layer, but the infill structures, so you achieve somehow what you want... 

    • Like 1
  3. Due to further maintenance of one of my printers and due to certain quality losses with another printcore, I checked all print times with my printcores. 
    I found that a bb0.4 printcore has the longest operating time for me. (282 days, this is 6768 hours).
    I think I will replace all my older printcores...

     

    What kind of operating times do the printcores have for other users, I wonder? 

    IMG_2470.JPEG

  4. 23 hours ago, GregValiant said:

    The default for all printers is "Outside to Inside".  I went in and changed that to "Inside to Outside".  In particular - printing the outside wall first on an overhang just doesn't work well.

    how can i change such default settings?

    i agree that this approach to fdm printing simply does not produce reliable results. The only good results I had were with PLA without using the second print core. 
    However, since the horizontal expansion is also adjusted in the new profiles, ultimaker seems to have implemented this new setting in an absolutely deliberate and planned way. here i have to ask myself under which test conditions these profiles were tested, as i think it only takes slightly more complex prints with two print cores and technical materials to show how inappropriate this printing sequence is. 

    can i also adjust other default settings in the cura profiles? i actually use the default settings from time to time via the simplified print settings tab where i can quickly select layer height and infill. can i change the default settings here?

    I would prefer this over making my own profiles which i had to enable from a drop-down-menu.

  5. I see that ultimaker now seems to prefer to print the outer wall before the inner walls for the ultimaker profiles (as in the beta). 
    I am still experimenting with the change, but so far have had more failures in terms of print quality. 

  6. What is your opinion on the setting change that the outermost wall is printed first and then the inner walls in the Ultimaker profiles?
    I have now tried it on several objects and my experience here is ambivalent. With simple materials without using the second nozzle it works relatively well. The accuracy in the X and Y direction seems to be very good, but holes still need to be adjusted. 

     

    However, with all my nylon objects printed with PVA support, this adjustment change seems to have disadvantages. The Ultimaker nylon is a softer PA compound, so there are slight similarities to TPU in the printing behaviour. This means that after a print core change, nylon does not immediately come out of the nozzle with the correct material flow. A Primetower helps here, but there is still a slight offset until the material flow is complete. This can also be seen to a certain extent after retraction. The fact that the outermost wall is printed first has led to unusable printing results several times, because the outermost wall was under-extruded. 


    With manual changeover to "inner walls before outer walls" this problem no longer existed. Since I only print technically applicable objects here and have therefore also increased the number of outer walls (the same as in previous Cura versions), I have never had any problems with the quality of the outermost layer. 

    Since it is generally customary to print the inner walls first, I find this change somewhat questionable.

    Opinions? 

  7. At this point the sidebar GUI should be somehow in cura by default. 
    This GUI of yours is so much better than the default one that ultimaker should make you a deal of some sort. 

     

    Everytime a new cura version comes out I get reminded that this is a plugin from a user and not the cura default because it is one of the first things I check for new versions. 

     

    Easily the best plugin. Once used you don't want to miss it!

    • Like 4
  8. That's because you have a AA0.4 core on the other side. As long as you have both cores active cura only gives you profiles to print with both cores together. 

     

    Since the 0.2 layer height is the only height both cores can print, cura hides the other one. 

     

    If you disable the AA0.4 printcore cura shows you all the profiles for the AA0.8 core, so that you can use the 0.3mm and 0.4mm layer height profiles. 

    • Like 1
  9. This seems to be quite obvious under-extrusion. together with the messages from the flow sensor, there seems to be too much resistance in the material feed. 
    the possible problem zones are in the print head, bowden tube and feeder. 
    For the printhead, a printcore cleaning is recommended to make sure no residue is stuck. 
    For the bowden tube, check its attachment and replace if necessary. Ultimaker recommends replacing it after I think 1500 printing hours. 
    For the feeder, open it up and clean it with compressed air and a brush. the feed gear should be free of material residue. 
    the feeder housing can also be removed and the drive gear on the motor lubricated. this should also be done every 1500 printing hours according to the maintenance schedule. 
    These are all the points that come to mind. 

  10. I have uninstalled the sidebar plugin, but the problem remains. 
    I have found that I can select the profile item in the bar with a double click. However, the settings in the costum tab are still those of the 0.15mm default profile. 

    Since the complete configuration folder also contains data about my printers, I prefer to send it by direct message. 

    • Like 1
  11. Hello there. 

    I have just discovered that I cannot select the PETG engineering profile in the 0.15mm layer height in cura 4.13.0 on an Ultimaker S5. As soon as I click on the point in the bar, the default 0.15mm profile is selected instead. 
    All other profiles can be selected without any problems.


    This problem does not exist with an S3. 

    Is this a known problem or is it the same for other users?
    I have installed the Sidebar GUI plugin. However, since the error does not exist with an S3, I don't really see the cause of the error here. 

  12. I can only confirm this as well. 
    I have three printers, one S5 and two S3. Regardless of the printer model, it occasionally happens that the screen goes completely black and no longer responds. 
    This can be solved with a reboot. In fact, the display sometimes reactivates itself. 

     

    My printers are always turned on, as this allows me to send new print jobs directly to the printers. 
    It seems that the display stops working, especially after a long period of inactivity. The screensaver does not seem to help. 
    As I said, after a longer waiting period following the display failure, it occasionally happens that the display catches itself. 

     

    If this happens during printing, all direct settings on the printer are of course not available, which can lead to problems.  

  13. That's a shame, of course, and shouldn't really happen. I have never had this mistake with my material station. 
    I would first test to see if this was a single error or if it repeats itself. I would suggest starting a small test print here and after a few minutes cutting off the filament in front of the spool to check if another material change is also faulty. 
    When changing the material, keep an eye on the back of the printer to see if something is wrong with the tubes or the couplings. 
    I just assume that the tension lever and feeder tension are set normally?

  14. Toughness in this case means that this PLA does not break as quickly as normal PLA because it can bend a little more. Normal PLA is quite brittle which is a disadvantage for applications under certain loads. Tough PLA is suitable in a normal working environment for applications where a certain impact and shock resistance is required. 
    For applications where slight flexibility is also required (such as snap hooks), PETG or nylon are better materials. 
    Personally, I prefer to use nylon for most applications because of its abrasion resistance and because I can easily vary the flexibility with different wall thicknesses. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  15. at this point i have to say that i have got used to the purge tower. 
    i tried printing without the purge tower for a while, but since my main focus is on a clean print image, it's the lesser of two evils if you have a reliable flow of material after each nozzle switch. 

    i now also have a printer from bcn3d that works with purge buckets. in fact, i have to say that they don't really replace the purge tower because they are attached to the outermost sides. the resulting travel move is so long that oozing ruins the print image. 

    a purge tower fulfils its purpose best when it is placed as close as possible to the print object. 
    i have just suggested that there should be a function that automatically places the purge tower as close as possible to the print object. apparently this feature is already planned. i therefore hope that this function will appear in the foreseeable future. 

  16. this material was marked as compatible for a while and could be used directly in the material station. 
    however, either with the manufacturer itself or with a certain number of users, there were frequent problems with the material breaking in the station because it is extremely stiff. for this reason, the material was again marked as unsuitable. 
    i seem to remember an explanation in some thread. 

    nevertheless, it should be possible to use the material with the generic profile. 

    • Thanks 1
  17. Regardless of the manufacturer, the BB Printcore should be used for PVA. The nozzle in the BB Printcore has a slightly different internal layout which should prevent nozzle clogging. 
    My S5 is already from the updated model range. I cannot say whether the feeder caused more problems before, but I can say that the problem is not completely eliminated with the new feeder. Having to watch his S5 with a material station to make sure there are no problems with the PVA has irritated me a bit in terms of use. 
    When loading, I specify the generic PVA profile. Since Cura sees the loaded materials, I always select the right combination of materials that I need. 
    I would still recommend a one-time temperature tower when choosing a different PVA manufacturer. Although pretty much all PVAs can be printed with the standard PVA profile, it can help to adjust the temperature more accurately. For example, I have found that with one manufacturer I have more precise and clean prints with a temperature of 200°C instead of the 225°C in the standard profile. 

    • Like 1
  18. I can absolutely recommend the material station, but not the Ultimaker PVA in combination with the material station. For a long time, I only used the Ultimaker PVA by using filament boxes with silica gel bags. There were never any problems because I could ensure that the filament was not under tension with the position of the boxes. 
    Then I upgraded my first S5 with a material station.  I now find the material station great and will probably equip future S5 printers with it as well. 

    However, the Ultimaker PVA becomes too brittle over time in the material station and often breaks. After only about 3 weeks, I noticed an increased risk of the filament breaking. This happens especially when the material is loaded all the way from the station to the nozzle. Therefore, it is recommended to print with the PVA approximately every 3 days. Then the material is not discharged and remains in the nozzle. Rolls straight from the packaging can be used directly. I would possibly heat these briefly for a few minutes to reduce the risk of breaking. For 3 minutes at 50°C in an oven or similar. 
    I leave PVA permanently in the station, regardless of the manufacturer. There is no need to worry about this. With Ultimaker PVA, if I haven't printed with it for a while, I heat it briefly as described before a print.  


    Although the Ultimaker PVA is even my favourite in terms of residue-free dissolution, I switched manufacturers for PVA. All the manufacturers I have bought PVA from have a softer filament which has never broken in the material station. 


    For the best PVA printing experience, I can recommend BASF's BVOH. It prints great with the 0.4mm nozzle, doesn't clog and offers a very worry-free working experience. Unfortunately, it is quite expensive and, like all other manufacturers except Ultimaker PVA, dissolves in an opaque, milky soup. 
    Polymaker's PVA S1 should be the cheaper option. I have used it in the past, but not yet tested it with the material station. However, I know that there would be no problems here. It's also softer so it won't break, leaves a few threads which don't dissolve completely but wash off and is one of the cheaper options. 
    Personally, I switched to a German manufacturer who only sells nationally. 

    • Like 1
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