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  1. I am using the Ultimaker Nylon for almost 90% of my prints in the S3. As I sell those printed parts to costumers, I needed a good quality and reliable bed adhesion. So I am using the Filafarm flex solution. But the key for the right adhesion without warping and super easy removal is the bed temperature for me. 40°C is the sweet spot there. For small parts I add some Magigoo PA, but for most prints a clean bed is already enough. With the bed temperature cura suggest for the material profile, I often get warping parts...
  2. I can only confirm this! Since cura 4.4 I ALWAYS save any new custom profile or material as an exported file in an extra folder. This is gonna save you A LOT of hassle if something goes wrong. Cura crash, new, version, new PC, corrupt backup, etc. If you always export your new settings/profiles you are (mostly) save from those events. Just save your stuff! Export everything. At least before updating! (Also, don't reinstall your old cura version. you never know what bugs you might get. personally I always keep the last 3 versions on my system. just to be safe...)
  3. I suggest a temp tower. I was surprised to see that a bit harder TPU I had printed best at 218°C. Another TPU with 98A prints good at 225°C. I think people often get told to print TPU at higher temps than actually needed. So again, a temp should clear the question about the right temp. (About the speed, I print all TPUs at 25mm/s, for everything (!), not just the setting "General print speed")
  4. Just the idea I got while reading your post: Maybe your Aquasys spool has been already too dry. I already read some posts that at the point where PVA gets too dry it becomes more and more brittle. This can also result in more grinding. I just read the data sheet and it states the filament should not get to 80°C before printing or it could lead to bad extrusion. Maybe a drying temperature of 70°C is too high. I have my PVA (different brand tho) also in a heated spool holder, at 40°C. I would just suggest the following: let your spool open for 2 hours, dry it at
  5. I am sorry, that's beyond my knowledge. This is where I think a Mod/Support has to step in.
  6. Around 30°C is great. But 25°C is also still working fine. My experience is that it should be at least 20°C. Anything lower is working very slow. You can pour it down the drain if your sewage is connected to a sewage treatment plant. I also make sure to never have solid or even gummy like bits in what I pour down the drain to make sure there is nothing in there that could cause constipation.
  7. Dissolving almost daily PVA prints. I use a heated magnet stirrer for all my PVA prints with a 2 liter bucket. Into the bucket comes already warm water to speed up the process. The bigger the bucket is, the more time it takes till the water is saturated, which slows the process down by a lot. So I change the water after the first 2 hours. After that I let the water do its thing. Most of my parts are in water for like 16-24 hours. Smaller parts for like 8 hours. The time could be less with some manual removal but I rather give the parts 1 full day for dissolving and drying s
  8. I did a printer reset as well recently. Since I had other materials loaded, then for the welcome setup required, I skipped this whole welcome setup with the close "X" in the top right corner. Worked fine for me so that I was done with the whole "new" setup in about 5 mins.
  9. Hello there.So I installed a new cura version on my second PC which is supposed to become my Printer-PC.But I noticed that the Layer view looks pretty awkward. I don't get a good look of the layer preview which hinders me to print from that PC.The layer lines are rendered extremely thin, which results in a bad quality of the preview. It's pretty hard to see what exactly gets printed and how the support interact with the object.Also the simulation bar/play-button for the nozzle simulation is completely missing. Besides that, I can't change to preview mode to other view settings like "speed
  10. This clip looks really great and might be just what I currently need. I took all my printers in the basement where the humidity already killed some spools...I got some filament boxes now, but need a solution for the tube-to-the-feeder problem. It would be really great if you could share your clip design. I thought putting tube couplers into them, might be a good idea as well...
  11. You need to activate the setting "Build Plate Adhesion type". This opens a little pull down menu. there you can switch between raft, brim and skirt.
  12. Just had the first test run with a buildtak print surface. I had the exact same problem, so I searched for a solution here in the forum. The nozzle making holes into the buildtak additional surface is not really ideal. what I would love to see is an option within the menu (using an ultimaker s3) to choose between different print-surfaces. this way you could choose maybe a glass (standard), buildtak, others... after that the printer knows on which surface he prints on, so that the starting routine could be the right one depending on the surface material.
  13. Hello everyone. I recently bought an Ultimaker S3 for my little Start-Up. I have already worked with an Ultimaker 3 at my old company. Because of that and the huge Marketplace with lots of Materialprofiles for many industrial components i decided to invest into a new Ultimaker S3. The printer works awesome so far. I really like the new Touch display. I also believe the start routine before each print got improved a bit. Now the big update for me and why I bought the UM3S and not one or even two UM3 where the updated feeders. I wanted the ability to print really st
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