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Gero

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  1. Hi everybody. I recently made a CURA slicing test on all my different machines I got: -Windows 10 PC which is my strongest machine -Apple MacBook Pro 2020 with M1 chip -IMac form 2017 with Windows in Dual-boot My testing shows that CURA isn't optimized for the M1 chip yet (judging by the results). Is this something for the future? Judging by other speed tests I did the slicing speed on optimized M1 software should beat most other windows Pc's... Cheers!
  2. I found out that it is the material type that throws cura out. Duplicate the generic ABS profile and change what you need to change, but don't touch the material type. As long as you change the density of your material, it works fine. Yes, you have to load the material as generic abs on ultimaker printers in order to make it work... This way it works fine with custom materials in cura. But I agree with you: This is something that should get fixed. Either give us more generic material choices or just let any custom material work.
  3. Based on my experience I would take a look at the feeder. Maybe the PVA was already worn down and there is some PVA dust in the feeder. I also had the error two times in the past telling me the feeder was out of the filament when there still was plenty on the role. Maybe quickly open the feeder and clean it. Should be a quick thing to check for before doing anything else...
  4. It is actually a food dehydrator which I modify to suit as a spool heat chamber... It's this one here: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0012US5Q8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&language=en_GB&psc=1
  5. Never heard of this adhesion stick you used. Gonna recommend Magigoo for pretty much everything. I used almost all different varieties they got and so far they all work great. But most importantly, make sure you spool is dry. I wouldn't trust new spools completely. I print all my spools from a heated chamber which runs at 40-45°C 24/7. Getting those fine stringing "hairs" everywhere indicates a possible wet spool.
  6. Would guess that at those points the wall is a bit thicker so that the inner wall line isn't enough to close the gaps. Try to set the setting "Fill gaps between walls" to "nowhere" (in the shell tab). Might be the fastest way to get what you want.
  7. I am using the Ultimaker Nylon for almost 90% of my prints in the S3. As I sell those printed parts to costumers, I needed a good quality and reliable bed adhesion. So I am using the Filafarm flex solution. But the key for the right adhesion without warping and super easy removal is the bed temperature for me. 40°C is the sweet spot there. For small parts I add some Magigoo PA, but for most prints a clean bed is already enough. With the bed temperature cura suggest for the material profile, I often get warping parts...
  8. I can only confirm this! Since cura 4.4 I ALWAYS save any new custom profile or material as an exported file in an extra folder. This is gonna save you A LOT of hassle if something goes wrong. Cura crash, new, version, new PC, corrupt backup, etc. If you always export your new settings/profiles you are (mostly) save from those events. Just save your stuff! Export everything. At least before updating! (Also, don't reinstall your old cura version. you never know what bugs you might get. personally I always keep the last 3 versions on my system. just to be safe...)
  9. I suggest a temp tower. I was surprised to see that a bit harder TPU I had printed best at 218°C. Another TPU with 98A prints good at 225°C. I think people often get told to print TPU at higher temps than actually needed. So again, a temp should clear the question about the right temp. (About the speed, I print all TPUs at 25mm/s, for everything (!), not just the setting "General print speed")
  10. Just the idea I got while reading your post: Maybe your Aquasys spool has been already too dry. I already read some posts that at the point where PVA gets too dry it becomes more and more brittle. This can also result in more grinding. I just read the data sheet and it states the filament should not get to 80°C before printing or it could lead to bad extrusion. Maybe a drying temperature of 70°C is too high. I have my PVA (different brand tho) also in a heated spool holder, at 40°C. I would just suggest the following: let your spool open for 2 hours, dry it at
  11. I am sorry, that's beyond my knowledge. This is where I think a Mod/Support has to step in.
  12. Around 30°C is great. But 25°C is also still working fine. My experience is that it should be at least 20°C. Anything lower is working very slow. You can pour it down the drain if your sewage is connected to a sewage treatment plant. I also make sure to never have solid or even gummy like bits in what I pour down the drain to make sure there is nothing in there that could cause constipation.
  13. Dissolving almost daily PVA prints. I use a heated magnet stirrer for all my PVA prints with a 2 liter bucket. Into the bucket comes already warm water to speed up the process. The bigger the bucket is, the more time it takes till the water is saturated, which slows the process down by a lot. So I change the water after the first 2 hours. After that I let the water do its thing. Most of my parts are in water for like 16-24 hours. Smaller parts for like 8 hours. The time could be less with some manual removal but I rather give the parts 1 full day for dissolving and drying s
  14. I did a printer reset as well recently. Since I had other materials loaded, then for the welcome setup required, I skipped this whole welcome setup with the close "X" in the top right corner. Worked fine for me so that I was done with the whole "new" setup in about 5 mins.
  15. Hello there.So I installed a new cura version on my second PC which is supposed to become my Printer-PC.But I noticed that the Layer view looks pretty awkward. I don't get a good look of the layer preview which hinders me to print from that PC.The layer lines are rendered extremely thin, which results in a bad quality of the preview. It's pretty hard to see what exactly gets printed and how the support interact with the object.Also the simulation bar/play-button for the nozzle simulation is completely missing. Besides that, I can't change to preview mode to other view settings like "speed
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