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Gero

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Posts posted by Gero

  1. I just wanted to write a quick "following". 

     

    I just ended up slicing a new temperature tower print for my S5 to test some alternative PVA material while I discovered this thread.
    I really like the plug-in idea for those automated generated towers for material calibration so I am just here to follow the progress.

    There are quite some material profiles out there that could need some fine tuning and I would enjoy testing these much more with your plug-in.

     

    Looking forward for it!

  2. Removing a print faster while the bed is still hot is one thing for me. It doesnt happen much often but it does from time to time. 

    But the need to let it cool down before starting a new print so the heating starts again right away also slows down the workflow. 

    When I am printing with PC on a 110°C bed and I forgot to apply my adhesion glue/there was a leveling issue/a material blob from the nozzle might ruin my print/with the first layer I notice a slicing mistake/somewhere mid-print I notice something isn't printing like I thought it would and other scenarios...Waiting for a 110°C bed to cool down to 60°C so I can retry my print, which heats back up to 110°C again takes quite a while.

     

    Yes, the bed is very hot while doing this and yes, there is the risk of burning. But even when removing failed prints or first layers I don't touch the bed. I take a metal spatula and remove whatever I have to remove. Sometimes there isn't even the need to remove anything. 

    The idea to make the printer operation more safe through the warning of a hot surface and to let the printer cool down before starting a new one is a good one in theory. 
    But it doesn't even line up with the ability to set the bed temperature manually to 120°C without a warning on the printer or that I can open the doors while printing and nothing stops or slows down.

     

    I would therefore like to see an option to skip the cool-down as well. Let it have a confirmation question with a big red warning so the user can see what consequences this has and knows what he is about to do. I believe that mostly experienced users would use this function anyway.

    • Like 1
  3. For CPE and PETG I am mostly using Magigoo FLEX.

    The Magigoo Standard glue is not sticky enough for everything I printed in CPE/PETG so far.

    I would suggest you give this one a shot, although I only had small prints so far on it.

     

    For bigger prints the adhesion might be too good, but so far I never had a PETG print-fail because of adhesion issues again...

  4. I noticed that the printer page does not display necessary changes anymore in order to start a print job. 

    Errors like End-of-material and others seem to get displayed fine, but after I send a print job to one of my printers it just told me "ready to print".

     

    I had to click on this specific printer to see that changes were necessary. 

     

    This was used to be displayed just like other errors on the printer page.

     

    Did this get changed by purpose?

    234234.thumb.PNG.4aad79dbe10aa32817cfa5ccaff4cf03.PNG3535345.thumb.PNG.fa7c79766c6f640a734d4fd70cb1495b.PNG

  5. 18 minutes ago, jsw said:

    Is it my imagination or does the new Cura produce slicings that print quicker?

     

    I just reprinted an item that I swear took about six hours originally, and it printed in just over four hours with the new Cura.  I know I used very similar, if not identical settings.

    The increased print quality in 4.12 is done through slightly higher jerk settings. Therefore objects with a lot of corners should print slightly faster as the print speed transition is a bit faster. A completely round object on the other hand should take the same time.

  6. 28 minutes ago, CarloK said:

    In Ultimaker we have discussed UPS features several times, but problem is the heated bed. When the heated bed cools down, then even a few degrees of temperature change can cause the object to detach.

     

    Just to add a thought of mine to this.

    Eventho most users print on the glass bed, I believe most people still use some sort of adhesion solution for it (like glue, magigoo, etc.).

    Wouldn't this still be able to resume the print even when cooled down a bit?

     

    I never had a power outage, but I am just thinking. To have no "resume print" function results in a failed print EVERYTIME you have a power outage. To have this function would MAYBE (or sometimes) result in a failed print.

     

    And another thought:

    What if the printer could see how long the power outage was?

    For like 10 seconds, the printer wouldn't even need to question the user. Just head up again for the last 5-10°C during initiating the printer and continue. For a longer break, head up the bed again, but ask for the user to confirm to continue in case the object did get loose.

     

    (so many thoughts...)

  7. Nothing really bad I guess. As long as the print result is still the same. This kinda can happen with materials that tend to ooze. Therefore, some little bits ooze out of the nozzle while traveling which get caught by the outer walls of your object. They cool down and can fall down. What material are you printing? PETG maybe?

    • Thanks 1
  8. I also can vote for maybe some sort of re-work of the profile handling. For me, one of the main issues is that I can't transfer my settings from an S5 to an S3 or the other way around.

     

    But the idea to have print profiles per printcore also sounds better and more intuitive.

     

    My current workaround is to have cura projects with the defined materials and print profiles adjusted to my different printers. A bit time consuming to create them, but when finished, I can simply open the "template-project" and have my settings for both printcores and materials ready to go.

    This also works with new cura versions since the whole project includes all settings (although a quick check for a new cure version to make sure nothing important changed is always better).

     

    Also important: never deinstall the old cura version when asked while installing a new version! I always keep the 3 last versions installed in case something happens during installing/new bugs/etc.. (Like with v4.8 and a broken prime procedure).

    This is something that can happen to all software updates so for anything work related its best to keep some old versions at hand.

    • Like 1
  9. That's why Ultimaker only recommends adding glue to the glass in order to get good adhesion.

     

    I tested quite some decent amount of different adhesion glues.

     

    So far the best one for almost every filament that worked for me is the Dimafix glue stick. 

    So far my best weapon for ABS and ASA on the S5. 

     

    Besides that, I upgraded my glass bed for a flexible spring sheet which I can bend to release prints. I also use Dimafix on this one, but it makes bigger parts easy to release without damaging them from any tool. 

     

    This way I get smooth under sites. Just a drop of IPA to clean the bottom part of the glue. That's it.

  10. There is only one option that seems to be possible and that would be having the door of the material station completely open in order to feed the filament from a 3kg spool in the guide holes. But then the station would give you a warning after a couple of hours because the humidity isn't decreasing, letting the station think that there is an error with the unit.

    Disconnecting one of the guide tubes at the back won't work because there are sensors in the buffer unit so the station will think that the material in the station is empty.

     

    Only really working option is to disconnect the S5 from the station and to reboot the printer. This way it becomes a standalone printer again and you can place the spool on the back. After you finished using this spool reconnect the station with the printer and reboot again in order to enable it.

     

    The material station can simply handle spools up to 1kg max. Having an S3 or 2+Connect enables me to also print from bigger spools although I almost never have bigger spools...

     

    Respooling might be better with the right tools? Like a power drill adapter?

    • Like 1
  11. As of right now, I have 3 Ultimaker printers. Maybe even more in the future. The only things I would like to have from a Ultimaker Professional subscription is the CAD plugin for cura and more space in the digital library as I would like to use it more. Since I am in a small startup I am the only one working with the printers. Therefore, all the team- and user-sharing functions are not needed for me.

     

    If I buy the subscription for only one of my printer I would be at 500€ a year. If I wanted it for all 3 of my printers I would be at 1500€ a year.

     

    But the given costs don't justify these features currently as I can totally work without them.

     

    The CAD plugin would be handy as I would have to export all my design files only once in a .step file rather than in .stl and .step. Makes life a bit easier, but is not mandatory for work.

     

    The Library is actually really great. I like how I can have a bigger project with all my prints in it prepared so I can hit "go" as soon as I need them. Works great with our current business model of selling those 3d prints.

     

    Right now I am using Onedrive to store all my work files. I have to open cura to load projects and send them to the printer which requires a bit more time, but costs me currently around 200€ a year. Besides that I can save all kinds of files in there. The print-history every printer has also allowed me to start prints I need without even opening cura.

     

    Again, the library is great and I would like to use it more, but it is not mandatory for work.

     

    And because I have been using ultimaker printers since 2016 the ultimaker academy also isn't offering much to me which reflects in the "effectiveness" of the subscription price. 

     

    Although I have left the state of a "hobbyist" and use my ultimaker printers more for work the current subscription options don't match our needs and offer additional features we don't need which puts the price too high for us.

     

     

    Now to answer the price question: from my standpoint, I would choose a one time fee of course, but given ultimakers standpoint and the whole idea to get users into a subscription is understandable. So I wouldn't mind a subscription here as well, assuming it would offer the things I need/want and the price is matching.

     

    Therefore, I would like to suggest a subscription option at maybe 200€ a year with features like the CAD plugin and more space in the digital library and another option with the CAD plugin only (because I cura seems to be used with all kinds of printers therefore the library is not needed in that case). 

     

    It would give every user more flexibility to choose the best subscription for him and I believe more users would be interested in starting a subscription in the first place.

    • Like 2
  12. This might sound strange but try a print with the bed set to 40°C.

     

    I am printing nylon almost 24/7 with no extra bed adhesion for 99% of the time.  

    (To be fair, I have a different build plate that's not glass anymore, but for a while I did this on glass as well)

     

    If it isn't working get the Magigoo PA glue. That and the bed at 40°C works for sure.

  13. Hello there.

    I believe I have found a bug in the procedure that the pro bundle starts when the material station can't retract the filament out of the printcore.

     

    I tried printing with BASF PET CF. Sadly the material profile for the material station ALWAYS fails at retract the filament out of the printcore after a finished print. First, I tried to edit the material profile to increase the Break temperature of the filament from 90°C to even 250°C with no change. Maybe I have to set a different Break retraction distance...?

     

    Anyway, while I did all these tests I noticed that the procedure to recover stuck filament from the printcore seems to have a bug: at the end of the procedure the build plate almost "falls" to the ground (with a very unpleasant noise).

     

    I recorded the end of the procedure. (Around the 0:28 mark)

     

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/6r03rbn0dtqdni3/IMG_1896.MOV?dl=0

     

     

  14. Hello there.

    So the Native CAD import plugin sounds really great and useful.

     

    I believe I am not the only one who would like to use it, but is held off by the high subscription price.

     

    May I suggest to offer another option for users to get access to this plugin?

    Maybe the possibility to subscribe to this plugin alone?

     

     

  15. On 7/20/2021 at 3:55 PM, mkaj2019 said:

     

    IMG_20210720_154350.jpg

     

    This looks quite nice.

    I was already thinking about something similar. My thought was about a nozzle wipe with every extruder switch rather than at the beginning because I have some oozing problems with 2 material prints...

     

    Would you share this design of yours? I would like to make one with some sort of brass brush to clean the nozzles. This part would be great to start with since it seems to fit nicely next to the build platform.

  16. This is not a model error.

     

    This is the setting "Enable coasting". You can find this setting way down in the Experimental tab in cura. It is probably enabled in your given printer profile. This is just disabled in a generic new one. You can use your given profile and just disable this setting.

     

    What this does is it stops extruding material just a bit before it reaches the end of the line. This last bit is displayed as a travel move in the layer preview. 

     

    The purpose is to use the molten filament in the nozzle for the last bit of a line instead of extruding until the end. The idea is to reduce the pressure in the nozzle before the printhead is going to do a travel move. This can reduce stringing and blobs and hide the Z seam better when dialed in correctly.

     

     

    • Like 2
  17. Interessant mal Einblicke bei anderen zu bekommen. 

     

    Ich drucke zu 90% das Ultimaker Nylon. Ist einfach super einsatzbar. Ich habe dabei Objekte die Flächen im 35°, 40° und 50° Winkel haben. Als ich mit Ultimaker 2016 angefangen habe, bin ich auch direkt mit PVA eingestiegen. Daher habe ich das so einfach fortgeführt. Lasse die Nylonteile ca. 24 Stunden im Wasser, danach kurz abspülen und in einem trockner für 10 Minuten trocknen lassen. 

     

    Meine ersten Versuche mit Breakaway waren tatsächlich eher mittelmäßig. Zum einen klebt das ganze zu sehr am Glas oder an der Flexplattform welche ich benutze. Zum anderen hatte ich bei eben solchen schrägen Flächen nie gute Ergebnisse. Habe hierbei immer die Cura Standard Einstellungen benutzt. 

    Ich glaube die haben immer einen Z Abstand beim Support. Vielleicht sollte ich das mal mit 0 Z Abstand probieren. Da ich aber schon bei den Standard Einstellungen Probleme hatte das von schrägen Nylonwänden zu lösen, bin ich da nicht so optimistisch. 

     

    Breakaway ohne Turm zu drucken wollte ich auch mal versuchen, aber beim Düsenwechsel kommt da einfach zu viel Material nachträglich raus...

     

    Würde mir da gerne mal eure Einstellungen angucken wenn ihr das so besser hinbekommt...

  18. Interessant hier durchzulesen. Ich drucke so gut wie nur mit PVA. Meine bisherigen Ergebnisse mit Breakaway waren derweil nicht wirklich zufriedenstellend. 
    Allerdings habe ich bei den meisten Teilen auch Überhänge, die gerade so über den sonst möglichen Winkel liegen. Bedeutet ich brauche Stützen, welche direkt unter den Schichten des Objektes liegen. Ist der Z Abstand beim Support größer als 0 werden die Überhänge recht schlecht gedruckt. 

    Daher kam bei mir immer PVA zum Einsatz. 

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