GregValiant

Check around the printer for drafts as well. I have a ceiling vent and I had to print a deflector for it because when the furnace/air came on it would blow right at the printer. It took a couple of minutes to figure that one out I tell ya'. PLA isn't much prone to warping so: the plastic isn't adhering to the build surface, or there is a temperature differential across the bed, that left front corner is lower by a bit, something like that. Just for reference, I typically print PLA with the bed at 50. You might try some "adhesion promoter" but check on those other things first.

The retraction distance should be near the max for the printer. The bed needs to be hot. I print a lot of PETG and the bed is at 83. I use hairspray as an adhesion promoter on 100% of my PETG prints. Long thin parts will still want to warp and pull off the bed. There are plugins in the Marketplace for "Tab anti-warping". You size the meshes and slide them around in Curs to provide additional footprint to the model. The "elephant ear" on this is 2mm thick and it almost wasn't enough. It managed to pull up by about a millimeter prior to the print finishing. A lot of people will tell you not to use the fan with PETG but I find that some fan helps a lot for things like the first layer over support and the first skin over infill. You can go into the gcode and add fan lines at appropriate layers, or you can use multiple instances of Search and Replace to turn the fan up at one layer and turn it off again at the next. large horizontal holes also need some fan as the feather edges start to close at the top. They will want to warp upward and the nozzle can hit them. Z-hops for that situation is a good idea.

I think the best thing to do would be to send an M201 to each printer and lower the Max Accel within the printers. You could "print" a gcode snippet something like... G28 ; Auto-Home > optional G0 Z10 F600 ; Move up > optional M201 X500 Y500 ; This example sets the Max X and Max Y accel to 500mm/sec² M500 ; Save settings in the printer G4 S2 ; Give it 2 seconds to complete the save M84 ; Disarm the steppers > optional The M201 might be firmware specific but there should be a command to alter the defaults in the printers. You need to check and make sure you are using the correct command. Changing the M201 setting means that no matter the setting in Cura for Print and Travel accel (M204 with P and T or with an S parameter in the gcode) when the gcode line gets to the printer, the limit would be enforced. Another alternative would be to put the M201 line into the startup gode of each printer. There would be no change to the defaults but once the line is read it would remain in effect throughout the print and until the printer is powered down. Upon powering it back up it would come to life with the previous default setting. What you cannot do is fool-proof it. If someone wants to add an M201 X1000000 Y1000000 to their startup they could do it. Unless they delete the file after bashing the machine there would be a record of that.

What material? It's kind of shiny - would it happen to be PETG? What is the build plate temperature? What is the build plate made of? Do you have any way to check if the temperature is uniform across the surface?

In the MarketPlace is a plugin called "Sidebar GUI". It rearranges the dialog boxes. In conjunction with that one you can install "Tabbed Settings". When they are both installed Cura looks like this...

The Japanese refer to "fool proofing" as "poke-yoke" because there is no proof against a fool.

This is from the end of the gcode file that the OP posted: \\ngradual_infill_step_height = 2\\ngradual_infill_steps = 5\\ninfil ;SETTING_3 l_pattern = cubicsubdiv\ When I slice that file I get the same thing but checking the settings in Cura - if "Cubic Subdivision" is enabled then "Gradual Infill Steps" is not enabled. It looks like it's being used though. @MariMakes could you take a look and see if you can duplicate this? It appears that "Gradual Infill Steps" is being used even though it is disabled for Cubic Subdivision. With "Grid" active set the Gradual Infill Steps to 4 Change the infill pattern to Cubic Subdivision. Gradual Infill Steps is disabled but it appears that the value in the box is being used during the slice. It appears that a lot of extra motion is being generated in the gcode.

"...annealed PLA has allegedly the highest stiffness..." I would call it "brittleness". After having been dried at around 115°F, I found that it can break when being pulled into the extruder. It prints a little different as well. I just looked at an image of a Duet board. On a single extruder printer the layer cooling fan is normally plugged into "Fan0". The fan command M106 has the "P" parameter for the fan number. You can plug in one of your fans to the Fan1 output and send M106 S255 P1 and it should go on (provided the firmware is configured that way). That is provided that the Fan1 outlet (and/or the Fan2 outlet) are PWM outputs and that a hot doesn't have to be on for the fan to work.

This is from the gcode when I sliced that project. G1 X93.334 Y126.75 E655.01482 G1 X90.175 Y121.266 E655.12007 G1 X88.205 Y121.266 E655.15283 G1 X111.795 Y121.266 E655.54513 G1 X111.783 Y121.266 E655.54533 G1 X111.795 Y121.266 E655.54553 G1 X107.85 Y121.266 E655.61114 My guess (and it's only a guess) is that it's related to "Gradual Infill Steps" when the infill is "Cubic Subdivision". I changed to a couple of other infill patterns and the problem went away. In addition, "Gradual Infill Steps" doesn't seem to be implemented correctly with Cubic Subdivision. It starts out at the "Infill Density" and then seems like it goes over it again with the "Step density".

You don't need a post processor for that. You could hand code a short gcode script and print it. M140 S60 G4 S7200 ; "S" is in seconds so that would be a 2 hr dwell M140 S0 If your mainboard has an output for a second fan you could get fancy and spend more money on another 24v fan and add a M106 S255 P1 line in there. The bed and fan would turn on, wait for however long, and then shut off.

I refuse to rise to the bait. Those moves are on the order of 0.08mm. There are longer ones as seen in the preview, but those short ones stick out like a sore thumb (sort of like your image there).

The "Flow Rate" is what is entered into the setting boxes of the material section in Cura. It is not cumulative but rather an over-ride. If you have the default flow of a material set to 98% and you enter 100% into the Material Settings flow boxes, the flow will be 100%. If you right click on a setting box in the material settings you can select "Use value from Material". You have to look closely. If a setting has been over-ridden then the font of the setting changes to "regular". If the setting is still linked to (in this case) the material then the font of the setting will be "italic" and the "circle arrow" should be there. If you install AHoeben's "Material Settings" plugin from the Marketplace you can add additional settings in "Manage Material / Print Settings". "...no special setting for shrinkage of annealed parts..." So, how are you annealing the prints? I ask because this has come up before and I've written a post-processor to do a timed cool-down of the bed and/or build volume. It will even move the print head out of the way so you can put a cover over the print (deluxe!). I haven't posted it so it's just sitting here. If you think it is something you could use I'll post it.

Alright, I do see a problem with the script. If the user does NOT enable "Accel Control" in Cura, then a user can enter numbers in the script that could increase the accel limit without a corresponding M204 line in the gcode setting the Accel. I'll add a block to keep the script from running if Accel Control is not enabled. I hadn't thought of that. With "Accel Control Enabled" then any changes to the XY Accel Limits in M201 that increase the Accel numbers are over-ridden by the M204 lines that Cura inserts. That will insure that Accel can only be lowered. There is no such thing as "Fool Proof". If a user wants to do something foolish, they are going to figure out how to do it. See pull request #18235

At the end of the very first infill line (gcode line 5257), there is this little dance... G1 F4500 X113.839 Y105.925 E653.28732 >>> long extrusion G1 X113.799 Y105.855 E653.28866 G1 X113.839 Y105.925 E653.29 G1 X113.799 Y105.855 E653.29135 G1 X113.839 Y105.925 E653.29269 G1 X113.799 Y105.855 E653.29403 It's shuffling back and forth between two points and extruding every time. That really doesn't look right. It almost looks like it gets stuck in "Infill Wipe" before moving on. The same sort of thing happens at line 5318. It's a stutter-step. G1 F4500 X86.16 Y84.516 E658.30881 G1 X113.84 Y84.516 E658.76913 G1 X111.802 Y84.516 E658.80302 G1 X111.803 Y84.516 G1 X113.84 Y84.516 E658.8369 G1 X111.803 Y84.516 E658.87077 G1 X113.84 Y84.516 E658.90465 G1 X113.751 Y84.516 E658.90613 Some of the movements are very short. Almost as if it's a Maximum Resolution thing. Since it occurs in the infill, I don't know if that applies.

The white marks indicate the Z-seam. You can turn them off in the Line Type dropdown when you are in Preview mode.

This is one of your images. One problem is that you are under-extruding by 15% or more. The extrusions have gaps between them. Two other things affect that "gap around holes" problem. One is filament shrinkage and the other is printing "Outer walls first". Both of those reasons are made worse by under-extrusion. You can see that in some of the holes the :outer wall" filament isn't staying where it was put. It isn't sticking and instead is following the nozzle in a straight line rather than making the inside diameter of the hole. The first thing to do is to fix the under-extrusion. You might have to "calibrate the E-steps" of the printer, or increase the flow settings in Cura. In the "Wall" setting section of Cura is "Wall Order". You will probably want that set to "Inside to Outside".

It was in 5.4 or 5.5 that a lot of materials disappeared for the Creality printers. Even regular PLA and PETG were excluded. I don't know who thought that was a good idea, but it didn't work out at all.

Within your base printer definition file is a section called "exclude materials". You can open it in a text editor and delete the lines of the materials you don't want excluded. You might have to open and save the file in Administrator Mode. Go to "C:\Program Files\UltiMaker Cura 5.6.0\share\cura\resources\definitions" and open "Creality_base.def.json". The lines look like this: "exclude materials": ..... "generic_pva", "generic_tough_pla", "imade3d_petg_green", Be careful with the punctuation. Each line must end with a comma. The last line in a section must be without a comma.

Functionally there is no difference between changing the E-steps and adjusting the Flow %. The end result is the same in both methods. 100% of 140 steps = 1mm of filament 144% of 97 steps = 1mm of filament I understand your desire to "do it right". As far as workarounds go, adjusting the flow isn't too bad at all. Getting good prints is what it's all about and if a flow adjustment allows you to do that, then it's all good.

All those settings in Cura (steps/mm, Max Speeds, Accel, etc.) are only for reference and isn't actually used anywhere. Cura isn't capable of asking the printer what the actual settings are and then parsing/showing the response. It looks to me like re-compiling the X3G writer is the only thing you can do (and even then you have to cross your fingers and hope it works). It's odd (and unfortunate) that the "M92" line didn't work. Did you try the "M221 S140" line in your startup gcode? If the printer understands it then that would allow you to leave the Cura settings at 100%. Setting the "global flow" that way would be a little neater.

A little more light reading HERE. Ghostkeeper did leave some how-to instructions. The plugin needs to have the lines altered for the E-steps and then it has to be re-compiled in "CMake".

It's a post-processor. That means it works on the gcode after the model has been sliced and the Cura Engine is finished. All it does is adjust the acceleration of the Y (and/or X) downwards for tall prints. Your comments about "overheating" and "high forces" don't make any sense to me. Everything that post processor does can be done by the user to start a print. The post simply allows a user to lower the accel so that violent starts and stops of the Y table don't cause the printer to throw a tall, top heavy print on the floor. Ultimaker users are blocked as we know they aren't bed-slingers so the script would have no value to them. For other fixed bed printers although it won't help, it can't hurt.

The "Wall Ordering" setting is in the Wall section. You can try "outside to inside". There seems to be a couple of problems. Have you tried using an adhesion promoter? Is the bed nice and clean and wiped down with Isopropyl Alcohol? If you increase the "Initial Layer Flow" by 5% you will get more squish. Enabling Z-hops can either fix the problem, or make it worse (if "not sticking" is the issue). What is your Initial Layer Print Speed? A slow first layer would seem to be a good idea. There are a lot of hearts with tips missing. Something might be going on with the retraction settings.

So much for my idea. That M92 line was always in the StartUp and you just changed the E value? 140/100 is 140%. If you were to set all the "Material Flow" settings in Cura to 140% it would have the same effect as altering the E-steps by the same amount. Clumsy for sure, but it's a possible workaround. It may also be possible to get the same effect by using M221 if your printer will understand it. If you were to slice that cube and then go into the gcode and add M221 lines every 10 layers or so, you could start at M221 S130 and work your way up (or down) and every 10 layers the Flow Rate would change. It would be a way to dial it in IF (a big if) it works.

You might be able to adjust the E-steps by adding a line to your startup gcode in Cura. The RepRap wiki has question marks in regards to Makerbot firmware so this might not work on the Replicator. It's worth a shot though. M92 E140 for a single extruder M92 E140:140 for a dual extruder If it works for one print then you might be able to make it the default by using: M92 E140 ; set the E-steps M500 ; Save the setting in the printer If that works then you can remove the lines from your startup.