GregValiant

It's a post-processor. That means it works on the gcode after the model has been sliced and the Cura Engine is finished. All it does is adjust the acceleration of the Y (and/or X) downwards for tall prints. Your comments about "overheating" and "high forces" don't make any sense to me. Everything that post processor does can be done by the user to start a print. The post simply allows a user to lower the accel so that violent starts and stops of the Y table don't cause the printer to throw a tall, top heavy print on the floor. Ultimaker users are blocked as we know they aren't bed-slingers so the script would have no value to them. For other fixed bed printers although it won't help, it can't hurt.

The "Wall Ordering" setting is in the Wall section. You can try "outside to inside". There seems to be a couple of problems. Have you tried using an adhesion promoter? Is the bed nice and clean and wiped down with Isopropyl Alcohol? If you increase the "Initial Layer Flow" by 5% you will get more squish. Enabling Z-hops can either fix the problem, or make it worse (if "not sticking" is the issue). What is your Initial Layer Print Speed? A slow first layer would seem to be a good idea. There are a lot of hearts with tips missing. Something might be going on with the retraction settings.

So much for my idea. That M92 line was always in the StartUp and you just changed the E value? 140/100 is 140%. If you were to set all the "Material Flow" settings in Cura to 140% it would have the same effect as altering the E-steps by the same amount. Clumsy for sure, but it's a possible workaround. It may also be possible to get the same effect by using M221 if your printer will understand it. If you were to slice that cube and then go into the gcode and add M221 lines every 10 layers or so, you could start at M221 S130 and work your way up (or down) and every 10 layers the Flow Rate would change. It would be a way to dial it in IF (a big if) it works.

You might be able to adjust the E-steps by adding a line to your startup gcode in Cura. The RepRap wiki has question marks in regards to Makerbot firmware so this might not work on the Replicator. It's worth a shot though. M92 E140 for a single extruder M92 E140:140 for a dual extruder If it works for one print then you might be able to make it the default by using: M92 E140 ; set the E-steps M500 ; Save the setting in the printer If that works then you can remove the lines from your startup.

It's a post-processor so you'd have to add it from the list. That's what it does though. If you stick this into the "scripts" folder in your "Configuration Folder" it will be available with the other post-processing scripts. (and yes, it will be in 5.7) LimitXYAccelJerk.zip If you have any problems or suggestions regarding it, now would be a good time to let me know.

The Anycubic site has a section HERE and it looks like they have a "how to" download for Cura profiles and setting up the printer in Cura. If you are just practicing before the printer shows up you can install the Kobra Max. It's probably pretty close. When your printer shows up then you can use those Anycubic downloads.

This is the first line in that Gcode file: ;FLAVOR:UltiGCode Which I believe is UltiMaker specific. This is from your printer definition file: "machine_gcode_flavor": { "default_value": "RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter)" } that indicates you have the wrong Gcode flavor in the Machine Settings. Unless you are absolutely positive that your machine is running Ultigcode you should change the setting to "Marlin". There is a Cura bug that affects some dual extruder printers if the Tool Numbers are called out in the StartUp gcode. You can try simplifying your startup and just allow Cura to handle the heating of the extruders and the bed. I believe the bug has been addressed and should be fixed in 5.7. If you use this as the StartUp Gcode it will eliminate the {initial_extruder_nr} which has the bug (it's always "0" regardless of which extruder starts a print): ;---StartUp Gcode G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M220 S100 ;reset the feed rate to 100% M221 S100 ; reset the flow rate to 100% M107 ;start with the fan off G28 ; Auto-Home all axes G1 Z2.0 F400 ;move the platform down 2mm M117 BIBO printing... ;---End of StartUp If you use that then the start of a gcode file will look like this (using Marlin as the gcode flavor): T0 M140 S60 M105 M190 S60 M104 S200 M104 T1 S175 M105 M109 S200 M105 M109 T1 S175 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode ;---StartUp Gcode G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M220 S100 ;reset the feed rate to 100% M221 S100 ; reset the flow rate to 100% M107 ;start with the fan off G28 ; Auto-Home all axes G1 Z2.0 F400 ;move the platform down 2mm G92 E0 M117 BIBO printing... ;---End of StartUp G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-6.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:158 ;LAYER:0

You can alternate G4 "dwell" and M300 "beep" in the gcode and get several beeps before a pause. Personally I'd find it pretty annoying. The "S" parameter of a G4 command is in seconds. The "P" parameter of the M300 beep command is in milliseconds. G4 S60 M300 P1000 G4 S60 M300 P1000 etc. That would beep for 1 second every minute. Those lines would cause the actual pause to move back by 2 minutes. There isn't any way out of a G4 so if you happened to be standing right there you would have to wait for the entire string of beeps to end before the pause actually occurred. "Annoying" might not be strong enough of a word.

In Marlin M84 and M18 are the same. I used M84 in the script. When the pause happens, the printer locks up. That's true if you use "M0" which is "unconditional stop". You can't do a loop to keep beeping because the printer will not accept any commands when it is in that state. "M25" is "pause SD print". That works on some firmware but not on others. If it does work, it usually calls a subroutine in the firmware and you are stuck with that. You might be able to send commands when it is paused. Probably firmware specific again. Gcode is linear so you can't do a "loop until". You need a separate device or a piece of software running that is monitoring the USB port. You could use M118 to start a routine in the computer. I use an M118 to inform my print server that the print has finished so it can unlock the movement controls. I have an Ender 3 Pro about 4 years old running Marlin 1.1.8. Default "Stepper disarm time" is 2 minutes and the printer will accept up to 4 hours (M84 or M18 S14400). If the steppers disarm during a print you are generally in trouble. It's possible to home the XY then move the print head to an opening on the build plate and then home the Z. The problem is that the endstop switches (in my experience) aren't very repeatable. The Z being off might mean a slightly under or over extruded layer. If the XY are off it means a layer shift of up to 1/2mm. It's noticeable for sure. This has a pause to insert 4 nuts, 6 pauses for color changes, and a final pause to insert a 3/16" x 9" steel rod to try to control warpage in the Florida sun (that seems to have worked). There are a left and a right, 8 hours each, and I had to stay home and babysit all day for each one. (the stars are glued into pockets).

That's an easy one to check. It would have to be awfully loose, and then it didn't happen again. The chances of it skipping that many teeth and then not doing it again are pretty low. Did the power happen to go out? Even a quick glitch could cause a stepper to lose position and then it just restarted where it thought it was.

Search the gcode for ";MESH:". There are two types: ;MESH:NONMESH are combing moves at the end of a layer and ;MESH:My Model.stl Will indicate the model. The first occurrence of this will be at the end of a skirt/brim or at the end of any Support or Support-Interface. If there is no support or interface on a layer then the line will appear just after the layer line and ";TYPE:" line. ;TIME_ELAPSED:135.897187 ;LAYER:4 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER ;MESH:My Model.stl G1 F2703.4 X114.281 Y30.008 E510.47956 Your snippet is too short. At that point it's printing "skirt" which is not part of the model.

I'm sure that isn't the way it was in the gcode. It looks more like something got stuck (bed wiring, bowden tube), or the bed hit something. Was the brim still affixed to the bed?

5.6.0 can be a lot slower and I have no idea why. There are supposed to be improvements in 5.7. There was a bug report on Github regarding a largish model that wouldn't slice. I checked it and there were no errors in the model. I set Cura to slice it. After a few minutes I walked away to do something else, and I forgot about the computer. The next day I was away from home. When I finally got back to Cura, slicing had completed. I checked the log file and slicing took 38 HOURS. (The "print time" was 18 hrs.)

Each extruder MIGHT have code that will run at every tool change. Those are optional. For now don't worry about them. On the other hand, the StartUp G-Code always runs. I see there is a BIBO Dual available to install in Cura. Here is the StartUp Gcode for that definition and there is a problem. M109 T{initial_extruder_nr} S{material_print_temperature_layer_0, initial_extruder_nr} .... T0 .... T{initial_extruder_nr} Cura can handle the heatup of the hot ends by itself. By declaring specific tools in the startup gcode, the Cura calculated "tool order" might be different and that can cause a problem. If the starting extruder is at 165° at the start of a print then the printer will enforce the "Avoid cold extrusions" setting and the print head moves around but doesn't do anything. There is currently a bug in Cura that causes "initial_extruder_nr" to always return "0" in the StartUp. It should be fixed in 5.7. Instead of calling out the tool numbers, keep it simple for now. Paste this in as your StartUp Gcode. This will allow Cura to handle the tool order and heating of the bed and extruders. G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M220 S100 ;reset the feed rate to 100% M221 S100 ; reset the flow rate to 100% M107 ;start with the fan off G28 ; Auto-Home all axes G1 Z2.0 F400 ;move the platform down 2mm G92 E0 ; Zero the extruder location When you get used to the machine you can customize that so it works the way you prefer. For now, just getting the printer working is a good thing.

Under the "Help" menu is "Show Configuration Folder" which should take you there. If you are on Windows it will be something like: "C:\Users\...your user name...\AppData\Roaming\cura\5.6\scripts" and it is the "scripts" folder that you want to copy the file to. BTW - what happens with "M18 S0" (and I suppose M84 S0) is firmware dependent. Your printer reads "S0" as "don't ever disarm" and mine reads it as "disarm right friggin' now!". That's a big difference. The longest my printer will respond to is 4.5 hours. I made a couple of changes. If you have more than one pause and all the settings are the same as for the first pause then you can just add a comma and an additional layer number (Ex: 34,110). There is a "Reason for Pause" setting with two options "Filament Change" and "All Others". If you are simply making an insertion (magnets, nuts, etc.) then you don't need all the filament changing settings. The "disarm time" option is now in minutes. I got tired of doing the conversion in my head. DO NOT use my coding style as any sort of example other than a "bad" example. (That was for Slashee). PauseAtLayer_GV.zip

The StartUp gcode is supposed to prepare the printer to get going on a print. (The Ending Gcode is to shut the printer down in an orderly fashion.) Go to Manage Printers and Machine Settings. Copy the "StartUp G-Code" from the text box (use CNTRL + V) and paste the startup here. Maybe it needs an adjustment.

Ironing is the best bet. I've found that the "Ironing Flow" needs to be dialed in to get the best results. "If you want a finish like 12 coats of hand rubbed lacquer then put on 12 coats of lacquer and rub it out by hand." - Me

The design isn't too complicated. The tough part will be the threads. I usually make a separate model of threads and then either subtract it from a model to make female threads, or add it to a model to form male threads. Threads are never real easy but it's simpler when you are printing the two mating pieces because you control the tolerancing. You will need to work with the existing threads. Make test models of just the threads (like printing a nut) until you get a good fit then use that thread form when you design the final model.

Hello. The Neptune 4 Pro definition will likely be included in Cura 5.7. For now, install a Neptune 3 Pro. There may be some things that are slightly different but the two models have a lot in common. So long as the Machine Settings match your 4 Pro you should be able to get started. If you do a search on Reddit a lot of your questions may already have been answered.

Thanks for getting back. We're starting to get a decent base of "airplane" problems and solutions. The electric powered models present a lot of challenges.

You can re-install the older versions from HERE. I would recommend 4.13.1. Find the version you want and click on the "Assets" button to unhide the installation download links. All the Cura versions can co-exist so you don't have to un-install one to load another. 5.6.0 has some issues with slicing and supports but I really don't see any difference in my prints. It's very difficult to troubleshoot from photos. As Slashee mentioned a project file is much preferred. You didn't mention what printer you have.

When the printer stops extruding - have you pulled out the filament all the way? What does it look like - is it nice and straight, or is it like an accordion with a bunch of little folds that are jamming in the bowden tube? Don't run out and buy random parts. This problem can be hard to diagnose but it is usually just one thing that is wrong (as opposed to a bunch of little problems that mask each other). @Slashee_the_Cow is this printer anything like yours?

Your printer settings are for a 0.2 nozzle at 0.2 line width and 0.12 layer height. That will make it a 16 hour print and a 19mb gcode file 613,000 lines long. If you are printing that with a 0.4 nozzle installed in the printer then it will be severely under-extruded. With a regular 0.4 nozzle, 0.4 line width, and 0.2 layer height it's a 5hr print time and an 11mb file of 352,000 lines. Big difference there. It's a simple model. I'd go with a 0.6 nozzle at 0.3 layer height and 75mm/sec. That knocks the print time down to 3 hours. You can push a 0.4 nozzle to .6 line width but it would be better to have a .6 nozzle installed in the printer.

Here ya go. Half a ball with a guide hole in it. Put a little piece of filament into the guide hole in one half and glue the two halves together. DO NOT hit it with a golf club a baseball bat or a cricket bat as a first test. Ball.stl My TPU profile makes 2 halves of the 50mm ball an 8 hour print. Just sayin'.

When I slice the file - those under-extruded areas on the left are occurring just before the outer wall finishes at that far left corner. In the project file you have "coasting" turned off, but that under-extrusion looks like what happens with coasting enabled and the coasting volume is set too high. I have never printed that material, but it looks as if the extruder is running out of gas at the end of those extrusions. The red line indicates a single layer that under-extruded. The blue arrows indicate areas that look good, and the yellow arrows are the under-extrusion. Looking at the layers, there is no difference in the toolpaths between the blue arrow layers and the yellow arrow layers. They all circumnavigate the model with the layer start and end at that left corner. The under-extrusion is occurring at the end of the loop. That c'bored hole interrupts that toolpath as the model becomes 3 islands and those extrude correctly. Then when it turns back into a single toolpath all around the model the under-extrusion appears again. These are general suggestions. I would turn off "Retract before outer wall", "Avoid printed parts when traveling" and "Avoid supports when traveling". All of those can contribute to "dry starts" of extrusions (admittedly, that doesn't seem to be the problem as the nozzle is traveling right to left in that image). If you are having trouble with the nozzle knocking supports over then enable "Z-hop on retraction" as an alternative. My Ender 3 pro is much better with PETG when I slow down the retraction and prime speeds to 25. It's as if the material doesn't like being snapped back and forth at the nozzle. If you pull air into the nozzle during a retraction it will take a bit to get going again. Have you tried printing that material at a higher temperature? 195 is kind of low and the material may be stiff at that temperature and has trouble getting moving. I see you have your "initial layer print temperature" at 240. That's a really wide spread from 195 for the rest of the print. Sorry I can't be more helpful. Not having any experience with that material is a definite handicap.