Chrisvdb

What probably happened is that the print detached from the glass plate during printing, and subsequently collided pretty hard with the print head, causing the head to dislodge and the glass plate to shift. I avoid detaching by covering the entire glass plate with smooth, broad masking tape (Scotch, Tesa...). That gives a much stronger bond with the print. So strong that it sometimes is difficult to remove the print. Make sure the plate is well cooled down before attempting to remove the print.

I had a very clogged up 0.2mm printhead. Lots of hot and cold pulling didn't help. It was caused by the "camouflage green" PLA that seems to have a different texture than the "regular" PLA and being prone to clogging. I continued using this camo green material with a 0.4mm head, which prints less precise, but fortunately not clogging. So I decided to partially disassemble the head to attempt manual unclogging. Thanks to the gr5 video posted here, I felt confident enough to try. I only needed to remove the brass block with nozzle. But how to heat it up without the UM? My solution: I put the brass block with the nozzle on a standard soldering iron for electronics. The soldering tip just fits snugly into the hole for the heater. Once heated this way, i could pry out the clogging muck with a needle, until I finally could extrude PLA through the nozzle. After reassembly, the head extrudes fine again, but I won't be using that camo green PLA again with this fine nozzle.