yea maybe risky but worth a try.
and Nope, i couldnt find any posts about opening a printcore on this forum.
Here is a post. Its in german but it has a few pictures and a YouTube Video inside.
Edit:https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/33097-anbieter-ersatzd%C3%BCsen-ultimaker-s3/#comment-268825
Edited by DirgDiggler- 1
1 hour ago, DirgDiggler said:Here is a post. Its in german but it has a few pictures and a YouTube Video inside.
Edit:https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/33097-anbieter-ersatzd%C3%BCsen-ultimaker-s3/#comment-268825
danke. das hab ich gesucht...
nach langem suchen hab ichs nun selbst versucht, da die düse eh nicht zu retten war.
durch starkes erhitzen konnte ich die teile von der verstopfung befreien..
leider hat das wie erwartet den versteckten teflonmantel im innern ebenfals zerstört.
tja. immerhin nun habe ich einige ersatzteile und weiss wie ich die nächste düse reparieren kann.
edit:
lustig. mein hotend ist ein kleines bisschen anders gebaut. bei mir verläuft das PTFE rohr direkt im aluminiumkühlkörper, das stahlteil ist bei mir viel kürzer als das vom Video.
Here is a video showing it happening and also what to be careful of so you don't break the delicate heat break:
- 1
- 1 year later...
I had a very clogged up 0.2mm printhead. Lots of hot and cold pulling didn't help. It was caused by the "camouflage green" PLA that seems to have a different texture than the "regular" PLA and being prone to clogging. I continued using this camo green material with a 0.4mm head, which prints less precise, but fortunately not clogging.
So I decided to partially disassemble the head to attempt manual unclogging. Thanks to the gr5 video posted here, I felt confident enough to try. I only needed to remove the brass block with nozzle.
But how to heat it up without the UM?
My solution: I put the brass block with the nozzle on a standard soldering iron for electronics. The soldering tip just fits snugly into the hole for the heater. Once heated this way, i could pry out the clogging muck with a needle, until I finally could extrude PLA through the nozzle. After reassembly, the head extrudes fine again, but I won't be using that camo green PLA again with this fine nozzle.
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geert_2 558
There have been posts in this forum how to do it, but it is very risky: you can easily break things. Maybe you can find these posts? I have never done it myself.
There is also a section on hot pulls and cold pulls, somewhere on the site, but i guess you already tried these? Sometimes warming the nozzle up and manually pushing the filament through is possible, if not totally blocked. Or sometimes you can get in from below with a thin needle to remove blockings, like a grain of sand. But I don't have much experience with blocked nozzles, I never had one. Just once a partial blockage (=reduced flow) by a piece of debris: I could push this upwards with a needle, then extrude some fresh filament, and then do enough atomic pulls to get all dirt out.
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