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donnyfl

Another Heater Error Question

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Last week I found out I had to replace my teflon coupler because the print quality was going south. Took the heating head off and my PT100 wire got stuck and broke off. So I ordered a new wire and also ordered the Olsson block. I always print with PLA with the default temperature of 210C. Even after installing the Olsson block my print was not the greatest so with a little googling I did the 5 degree increment and found out it was printing great at 220C. gr5 gave me a listed of suggested heating temperatures for certain speeds. So for the first time since owning my UM2 I decided to see what the print quality was like if I increase the nozzle temperature to 230. It printed a few layers then stopped with the Heater error and to contact UM support.

I did some googling and at the time I was running Cura 15.01 and saw that this version had problems with Heater Error, great so I updated my version to 15.02 and printed a test but again it stopped. I then went to the Cura website and see that there's a 15.04 so I installed that but the problem is still there.

Below is a video of a test print at 210 C. I started to record right after I tuned it and increased the temperature to 230. Within a few layers, the error message pops up again.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mm4casjfn9jvc4w/Video%20Jun%2014%2C%2011%2025%2019%20PM.mov?dl=0

Anyone had this happen to and found a solution? I searched the forum for Heater Error and tried all suggested methods but still getting the error. All wires are fully seated and nothing loose.

Edited by Guest
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It could happen because the fan shroud is touching the heat block, when the fans start to blow a lot the temperature will drop, and the heater error will pop up.

You can increase the height of the block by tightening the heater steel coupler (or insulator). Heat up and turn it a bit with a screwdriver in one of the holes.

Beware that this steel coupler can break easily, heating up is mandatory. It's safer also to do this without the pressure of the spring.

Or print another fan shroud that is best suited for the olsson block to add more space between them.

Ps: if you tighten the steel coupler don't forget to re-level your bed.

Pps: Distance between steel coupler and teflon should be around 1mm, if you have an I2K insulator thighten at maximum to add more pressure.

You can test my answer by printing with no fans or increasing manually and checking the temperature

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You are right on @DidierKlein. After experimenting around with different heights for the metal coupler, i decided to swap out the Ollsson Block for my new OEM heater block. I couldn't get the block to not touch the bottom of the fan bracket. I'll wait until labern finalizes his model or metal version. I don't print with exotic material or plan to anytime soon so I can wait. Thank you DidieKlein for your input on this and Super thanks to @gr5 for recommending me to play with different temperatures for printing PLA. AFter putting on the new OEM heater block, telflon coupler and so on, I test printed a ring with temp set at 230 C and printing at 50 mm/sec, it gave me the best print to date since owning my UM2. It came out flawlessly and not even one string of material or hole can be found. The top layer is just as smooth as the bottom layer which I never could get. I am really liking this printer now :)

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It could happen because the fan shroud is touching the heat block, when the fans start to blow a lot the temperature will drop, and the heater error will pop up.

You can increase the height of the block by tightening the heater steel coupler (or insulator). Heat up and turn it a bit with a screwdriver in one of the holes.

Beware that this steel coupler can break easily, heating up is mandatory. It's safer also to do this without the pressure of the spring.

Or print another fan shroud that is best suited for the olsson block to add more space between them.

Ps: if you tighten the steel coupler don't forget to re-level your bed.

Pps: Distance between steel coupler and teflon should be around 1mm, if you have an I2K insulator thighten at maximum to add more pressure.

You can test my answer by printing with no fans or increasing manually and checking the temperature

 

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