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It depends on the colour. I find the natural white ABS pro gives a much better print quality and it is tolerant of fan cooling to a point. ABS Pro has a FANTASTIC sanding surface if you start with 180 paper and end off with 400. ABS pro is as good as the Ultimaker light blue PLA filament. I often sand items smooth and paint them.
Cover the front of the UM2 (cardboard). Partially cover top with wide strips of paper that have the edges folded for stiffness. It is not a fully enclosed volume and there is enough room for the head to move around. It is however more than enough to keep it toasty inside.
Don't use cardboard on top as you could crunch your head when the print stops if the card gets caught.
Cura settings:
0.4mm nozzle
I use hairspray to adhere the first layer, applied to cold (max 30ºC) glass only. Do not use Wolfbite with ABS Pro - it will end up ripping off large flakes of glass from the build plate (in my case: a 200mm x 50mm strip 0.5mm deep).
Bed 105ºC to 112ºC (I typically use the 112ºC. I seem to remember it goes plasticky at 90ºC).
I print at 22ºC ambient room temp with no windows open and no breeze
First layer 250ºC
The rest: 240ºC
Initial layer 0.2mm (I normally print a lot of detailed stuff with 0.1mm layers)
Initial layer line width 180
Travel 150
Bottom layer 30
Infill 60
Outer shell 40
Inner shell 40
Cooling fan: 0 for first 0.5mm
Then 25% to 40% of max fan speed for the rest.
In the past I've tried as high as 100% fan, but only use this for delicate objects. At 100% fan, layers delaminate for anything wider than about 8mm (solid) and will warp.
I can't remember the retraction settings. Maybe 3.95mm at a medium retraction speed?
Material flow on the printer set to 122%
Try 70% fan for bridging and down to 10mm/s head speed.
I often get excellent results using the above and have printed 10 or 12 spools of ABS pro. Settings will need tweaking if you are pausing to cool very narrow structures. If you are seeing black specks, head temp is too high.
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The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
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Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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It depends on the colour. I find the natural white ABS pro gives a much better print quality and it is tolerant of fan cooling to a point. ABS Pro has a FANTASTIC sanding surface if you start with 180 paper and end off with 400. ABS pro is as good as the Ultimaker light blue PLA filament. I often sand items smooth and paint them.
Cover the front of the UM2 (cardboard). Partially cover top with wide strips of paper that have the edges folded for stiffness. It is not a fully enclosed volume and there is enough room for the head to move around. It is however more than enough to keep it toasty inside.
Don't use cardboard on top as you could crunch your head when the print stops if the card gets caught.
Cura settings:
0.4mm nozzle
I use hairspray to adhere the first layer, applied to cold (max 30ºC) glass only. Do not use Wolfbite with ABS Pro - it will end up ripping off large flakes of glass from the build plate (in my case: a 200mm x 50mm strip 0.5mm deep).
Bed 105ºC to 112ºC (I typically use the 112ºC. I seem to remember it goes plasticky at 90ºC).
I print at 22ºC ambient room temp with no windows open and no breeze
First layer 250ºC
The rest: 240ºC
Initial layer 0.2mm (I normally print a lot of detailed stuff with 0.1mm layers)
Initial layer line width 180
Travel 150
Bottom layer 30
Infill 60
Outer shell 40
Inner shell 40
Cooling fan: 0 for first 0.5mm
Then 25% to 40% of max fan speed for the rest.
In the past I've tried as high as 100% fan, but only use this for delicate objects. At 100% fan, layers delaminate for anything wider than about 8mm (solid) and will warp.
I can't remember the retraction settings. Maybe 3.95mm at a medium retraction speed?
Material flow on the printer set to 122%
Try 70% fan for bridging and down to 10mm/s head speed.
I often get excellent results using the above and have printed 10 or 12 spools of ABS pro. Settings will need tweaking if you are pausing to cool very narrow structures. If you are seeing black specks, head temp is too high.
Link to post
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