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This is typical underextrusion. Pretty severe - Somewhere around 30% to 50% of the extrusion desigred (half to a 1/3).
There are many possible causes. The likely problem is either your teflon part or your nozzle. But first the most common problem is that people print too cold or too fast. Check the table below to see if you are printing too cold or too fast (fast has to do with layer height also!).
If you have the Olsson block this might be a good time to install it. Read the directions carefully - it's very very easy to destroy the temp sensor - but the guy who wrote these directions changed 100 blocks and only damaged one temp sensor so read his technique. Change the teflon part while you are at it. Often there is a thin coating of gunk inside the nozzle - especially if you printed with ABS a few prints ago. You can either put on the olsson block or you can remove do a cold pull, then remove the nozzle and soak it in acetone overnight (again be very very careful not to damage the temp sensor). Here's the directions:
There are about 15 other possibilities so tell us more information (e.g. I changed the nozzle - that's not it, I change the teflon part 2 days ago - that's not it, I am printing same speed (but thicker layers) that used to work).
Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):
20mm/sec at 200C
30mm/sec at 210C
40mm/sec at 225C
50mm/sec at 240C
The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.
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In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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This is typical underextrusion. Pretty severe - Somewhere around 30% to 50% of the extrusion desigred (half to a 1/3).
There are many possible causes. The likely problem is either your teflon part or your nozzle. But first the most common problem is that people print too cold or too fast. Check the table below to see if you are printing too cold or too fast (fast has to do with layer height also!).
If you have the Olsson block this might be a good time to install it. Read the directions carefully - it's very very easy to destroy the temp sensor - but the guy who wrote these directions changed 100 blocks and only damaged one temp sensor so read his technique. Change the teflon part while you are at it. Often there is a thin coating of gunk inside the nozzle - especially if you printed with ABS a few prints ago. You can either put on the olsson block or you can remove do a cold pull, then remove the nozzle and soak it in acetone overnight (again be very very careful not to damage the temp sensor). Here's the directions:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/62-installing-the-olsson-block-kit
There are about 15 other possibilities so tell us more information (e.g. I changed the nozzle - that's not it, I change the teflon part 2 days ago - that's not it, I am printing same speed (but thicker layers) that used to work).
Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):
20mm/sec at 200C
30mm/sec at 210C
40mm/sec at 225C
50mm/sec at 240C
The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.
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