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gr5

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  1. gr5's post in Slicer bug. was marked as the answer   
    No, I don't think it's an option.  Well you could search for "wall" in the settings search box.
     
    I suspect it used to be even worse.  No skin at all under any walls.  Then Burt fixed it in his version of cura but he didn't cover every possible situation.  Then his feature got pulled into cura years ago so now ultimaker cura and smartavionics cura are probably the same for walls.
     
    I'd create an issue over on github.  That way your issue will get MUCH more attention.  As slashee suggested.  You have to create a github account but it's free.
  2. gr5's post in Cura Generating Supports Beside Model was marked as the answer   
    Cura is kind of dumb.  It sees that top of the X and thinks it needs support.  But it doesn't.
     
    Cura has lots of features to fix this.  In the case of this exact issue, I'd use a feature called "support blockers".  But put the blocker up near the top of the X - where the surface is that cura thinks needs support.  Don't put the blocker where the support is that you want to take away.
     
    In PREPARE mode, click the model, then on the left there is a tool you click called "support blocker".  Then click near the top of the X in your model.  A cube will appear.  Click the cube so only the cube is slected, then switch to the scale tool on the left side (second too from top?).  Now scale the "blocking" cube to include the top surfaces of the X.  You can select the move tool to move the cube around.  You can rotate the cube.  Etc.  It's possible to load an STL to be the support blocker - you don't have to use a cube but it will do for your purposes.
     
    Slice again.
  3. gr5's post in Material bay E Extrusion issues was marked as the answer   
    Is the filament now stuck in the MS or does it retract completely and properly?  If it's stuck then you probably need to take the MS apart.  There are wonderful, detailed instructions.
  4. gr5's post in Warping in same location for larger prints was marked as the answer   
    Did you watch the video I just linked to?  It explains the cause of warping.  It explains the solutions.  You wouldn't be asking this question if you watched the video.
  5. gr5's post in printer origin issues was marked as the answer   
    Near top of cura go to PREPARE screen (you are already there in above screenshot).  Then click on your printer near the top left and choose "manage printers".  Then click "machine settings".  Uncheck "origin at center'.  Done. 
     
    "Origin at center" is for delta printers which are a rare breed although Elegoo does make some delta printers. But it sounds like you have an XYZ printer so you want that "origin at center" unchecked.
     
     
  6. gr5's post in S5 Hotend - Z Height Too Low - AA 0.8 was marked as the answer   
    So it sound like sometimes the active leveling is off.  I don't think the 90 degrees thing had anything to do with it.  But it sounds intermittent which makes it harder to debug.
     
    Start by going to maintenance and testing the leveling sensor.  It's a very quick test.  It gives you some numbers I think (different versions of the firmware show you the numbers differently and I lose track).  Lower numbers are better.  8 I think is the passing threshold.  larger numbers means there is more noise confusing the sensor.
     
    The most common thing messing up the leveling sensor is the front fan.  It can both be the cause of electronic noise or the fan coil can act as an antenna to pull in radio noise from around you.  Make sure electronics like computers, phones, toasters, etc are at least a meter from the printer.  Especially motors like refrigerators and vacuum cleaners.  Keep those 2 meters away, lol.
     
    Let us know the returned value when you do the sensor test.
  7. gr5's post in AA and BB are not level was marked as the answer   
    Excellent photo - you don't have the silicone thing installed quite right. Here's a video explaining how it should be installed and how to install it.  It's harder to do than shown in the video.  And easy to tear.  Fortunately they cost almost nothing.
     
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IX-X1yPIBg
     
  8. gr5's post in Weird ringing/Ghosting on cylindrical prints was marked as the answer   
    It looks like you have an S5.  Make sure that the belts are all equally tight (top and bottom half).  Sometimes a belt slips a tooth and half is tight and the other half is loose.
     
    Make sure you aren't using engineering profiles.  Make sure accel and jerk control are on.
     
    A quick fix is to drop the speed to around 20mm/sec when you get to that part of the print using a feature called "mesh modifiers".  Google "mesh modifiers cura" and read about that feature or watch a youtube video.  I'd probalby drop the acceleration to around 1000 and the jerk to around 5 all at the same time.  If you can characterize the ringing and determine the frequency, I can help you with the ideal amount of acceleration and jerk to counter the ringing 90%.  You do this by printing a cube, then measure the distance between waves with a ruler/micrometer and knowing the print speed you can calculate the frequency.  Then you want the exact same speed increase in the first half of the period of the waves as the second half.  This will counteract the ringing.
  9. gr5's post in Ultimaker 2+ feeder on Ultimaker 2 was marked as the answer   
    I'm pretty sure you can just change the feeder and motor and use UM2+ firmware and you will be fine but to be safe I would use the "tinkerGnome" firmware for the um2+ because it lets you change many more settings in case I forgot some detail and you need to change part back.
     
    When changing to the UM2+ you definitely have to reverse the E axis and change the steps/mm to a different value.  Other changes in the plus are:
    fans on head different orientation
    easily change nozzles on plus
    higher wattage heater in print head
    better teflon part (but it's the exact same shape and size - just a better type of teflon)
    replaced spring with aluminum cylinder (I still like the spring better)
    smaller spool holder that holds only one spool
    better glass clips that are less likely to cut your fingers
     
    So the heater is different which means the PID values for the heater are a little different in the um2+ firmware but I don't think it matters much.  Worst case you will see the nozzle temperature oscillating and if so you can alter the PID values.
     
    Tinker Marlin is here: https://github.com/tinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases
  10. gr5's post in X axis not working was marked as the answer   
    I was going to say it could be one of the 4 wires to the stepper but you said you switched to the other drivers and it moved so yeah it's definitely the stepper driver chip.
     
    Some people are really good with surface mount soldering and have the right equipment (speical hot pad, hot air blower, I don't know what else).  I have been soldering electronics off and on for decades and consider myself extremely good at it but I can't do SMDs.  Well I can do two pin smds only.  Some people in this forum have replaced a driver chip.
     
    The older UM2s and UM2+ printers have a spare stepper driver for the second extruder.  There is an extra connector for that second extruder.  You can flip the controller over and see if the chip is mounted.  The driver chips are lined up near the servo connectors and are large and square.
     
    Unfortunately Ultimaker stopped including these chips on the UM2 controller boards at some point.  If you order a new UM2/UM2+ (same board) controller board from Ultimaker it will not include that extra extruder driver.
     
    Now if you are doing the mark2, you are probably already using that second extruder (E2?) which is unfortunate.
     
    If you don't care about the dual extrusion much then you could change the firmware such that the X axis uses the second extruder.  It's just a few lines of code change in the file "pins.h" which says which pins control which servos etc.  You could swap the ones between X and E2.  I can point you to very detailed instructions on building the firmware.  I'd do the Tinkergnome firmware.
     
    If you really want your dual extrusion to still work then your only option is to buy a chinese version.  There are 2 flavors - one flavor has the exact same stepper drivers.  The other has socketed drivers so you can (sometimes must if it doesn't include the drivers) choose your own drivers.  Which is a nice option if you are into really customizing things and modifying firmware.  The drivers would be "pololu" style drivers which you can google about if the board you order clearly has missing (but socketed) drivers.
  11. gr5's post in New Printer Stringy PVA was marked as the answer   
    Experts tell me you need to occasionally clean the flex plate with soap and water (but dry it completely) or IPA (isopropyl alcohol).  No "glues" such as magigoo necessary for PVA nor PLA.  Also they mentioned: as the PVA absorbs more water it sticks less.
     
    It looks like the color of the PVA is changing as you get higher in the print.  Perhaps the outer meter was wetter?  That doesn't make much sense as the outer layer of filament on the spool is probably at least 15 meters of filament and this looks like only 2 meters at the most.
     
    Wetter filament prints "snowier" and drier filament prints more transparent but I can't remember if PVA gets completely transparent - I think only Nylon does that.
  12. gr5's post in Cura not slicing part of my model was marked as the answer   
    Almost certainly an issue with the model.  Are you by any chance using blender or sketchup?  If so then most likely the problem is with "normals".  Read about normals for blender or sketchup and how to fix them.
     
    There are other possibilities.
     
    Actually I think I see a more serious problem already.  I can see your cylinders have walls inside the part.  That's a no-no.  You can't have walls *inside* a solid.  Unless their purpose is to create an air pocket.  That's almost certainly the issue.  Most cad software will not let you create walls inside a solid like that.  I'm guessing you are using blender or sketchup.
     
  13. gr5's post in Curves are printing in segments and not a single curve was marked as the answer   
    Is this a tinkercad question or a slicer question?  Search on youtube for how to create a "lobster in tinkercad".  This will give you a more continuous curve.  It will still have segments but maybe it will be better.
     
    Cura doesn't do "curves".  It receives an STL file and STL files don't define curves.  So all you can do is smaller line segments.  If you go too small, the firmware may slow down.
     
    the firmware should not slow down for gentle curves like in your image.  But if you have too many line segments (> 16) over the distance of only 1 mm then the printer will indeed slow down because it has to always be ready to stop within the next 16 line segments (feature of Marlin firmware - not as much of a problem with Klipper firmware).
     
    When you have line segments as in your image above, Marlin will not need to slow down.  It does not stop at each "corner".
  14. gr5's post in UltiMaker Cure 5.6 Visually Braking my PC when Slicing and Previewing the Slice. was marked as the answer   
    70,000 triangles is a lot.  I've sliced that many before on very rare occasions.  I would try reducing the number of triangles aka "decimation".  This will make your life better such that you can try out more slicing experiments.  Most of my models slice in about 4 seconds.
     
    I use this technique.  This is the only thing I use meshlab for and it's wonderful:
    http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab
     
    Or when you export to STL there should be options in your CAD to reduce the triangles.  Like a "resolution" option or something.  If you use openscad, or DSM I can help you with how to do that.
  15. gr5's post in Part of my model not printing? was marked as the answer   
    Short answer - it's 98% chance there is a problem with your model.  Many cad software are more meant for creating 3d gaming or immersive environments and don't worry about physical reality so the objects are not solid.  Cura either gets confused by too many or too few triangles/surfaces or sometimes makes the wrong (arbitrary) choice.
     
    We call it "manifold" when a 3d model is solid.  The most common issues come from blender or sketchup which are designed for graphics/videos but not solids.  Both of these packages have fantastic plugins and features to make your model solid.  What cad are you using?
     
    Cura also has a plugin that can test your model.  Please post your STL file and someone might analyze it for you.  But you probably have extra walls or missing walls somewhere.  Or the "normals" are backwards (again - common in Blender and Sketchup but rarely happens with normal CAD that creates manifold parts).
     
    For the Cura plugin that can give you hints as to the issue (shows bad normals or missing/extra walls in color), I'm not home but click on "Marketplace" button and make sure you aren't on materials tab and look for "mesh tools".  I think it can also fix the normals for you (the plugin).
  16. gr5's post in ULTIMAKER EXTRUSION UPGRADE KIT 2 to 2+ was marked as the answer   
    You are doing fine.
     
    After you upgrade the hardware, you need to upgrade the firmware to the "plus" version.  That's all there is to it.
  17. gr5's post in Ultimaker S3 Auto-Levelling Issues was marked as the answer   
    it's critical that the core is hot because if the filament is solid on the tip then it will level too high above the bed.  Leveling sensor notices when the bed stops moving towards the head (because they have physically touched).  So anything on the tip of the nozzle would mess that up.
     
    I don't have any great suggestions but:
    1) You can hang out at the printer with a putty knife ready and after it finishes all the leveling points it pauses to reheat the bed and nozzles (the power has to be off during leveling as the EMF from that can mess up the leveling sensor).  Clean the bed at that moment (you have maybe 3 minutes).
    2) There is really only one spot that gets the most tiny bits of plastic.  You can try to position your print to avoid that spot.
    3) You can ignore it like I do and get a slightly different looking spot on the bottom of your prints.
  18. gr5's post in Nozzle momentarily continues extrusion on completion ruining model was marked as the answer   
    So it seems the solution was a "factory reset".  More details 4 posts up.
  19. gr5's post in Material Station only increases issues. was marked as the answer   
    I love big reels.  Many vendors sell 5kg spools.  There is no reason to use Ultimaker filament on an Ultimaker printer.  Go for it.
     
    I put the spools on the floor and put the printer towards the rear of a table.  I've built spool holders but now I usually just put them on the floor such that as the filament is unspooled, they roll towards the wall.
     
    I also have a UM2go on a shelf with a spool holder on the shelf below.  That works well also.
  20. gr5's post in I can't find Thermistor & Heater Probe for my Core AA print core was marked as the answer   
    Write to sales@3dsolex.com.  Tell them you are in Turkey.  They have these parts.  They are the 2 most expensive parts on the core.  Roughly 20 euros each.  Are you sure the heater is broken also?  The heater is tougher than the sensor.  The heater should be around 25W so around 24 ohms (power=24*24/resistance).  The sensor is much more delicate.  It should be around 109 ohms at room temperature.
     
    Solder can not be used to make these parts because solder melts at a temperature below printing temperatures.
     
    I forget the diameters but the are integral amounts of mm.  For example 3mm and 4mm?  Not 3.1mm or 2.9mm.  No fractions.
  21. gr5's post in Unexpected Behavior of Bridging / on solid Layers. was marked as the answer   
    After briefly looking through the images, I'm not sure if this behavior is intended or not.  I think maybe it is.  Anyway it's okay either way as there are employees that do triage.  So really the best thing to do is to log this on github.  To do so, go here:
    https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues
     
    You must have a github account (they are free) and then click "New Issue".  You will be guided.  Maybe include the best photos from above.  Maybe link to this thread but it's long and gets off topic so I'd summarize with images once again.
     
    If you could create a drastically simpler model that shows the problem that would be good for everyone involved.
  22. gr5's post in Help! Received used Ultimaker 2 Go without the power supply was marked as the answer   
    That has more power than you need.  The um2go doesn't come with a heated bed so you can use a lower value power supply.  Actually I sell heated beds for um2go and you still don't need to upgrade the power supply (there's a trick if you want to use the smaller power supply and also a heated bed).
     
    Anyway, here is the official power supply part information:
    company: Mean Well
    part number; GS120A24-R7B
     
    If you are in USA I recommend digikey.com.  $50.
     
    Her school likely has the power supply.  They just lost it.  Maybe she can find it?  Google it to see what it looks like.
  23. gr5's post in Problems with the Ultimaker s3 Material was marked as the answer   
    Did you change the printing speed or layer height?  If you increase the layer height you should probably decrease the printing speed by the same amount.
     
    I doubt the retraction speed is the issue.  You can probably go to infinite speed and the printer firmware should limit the speed to a safe amount.
     
    There may be too many retractions.  Are you printing something with hundreds of small islands on the layer that fails?
     
    More likely you increased the layer height without slowing down the speeds.
     
    Type "speed" in the settings search bar and it will show you the 7 or so printing speeds.  I prefer to print with the same speed for infill, inner, outer shell, top and bottom.  So I would put the speeds back to default, then lower the fastest speed (usually infill) by 33% (assuming you increased layer height by about 33%: 0.2 to 0.28mm).  Make sure all the speeds are below that speed.  You don't have to lower all the speeds, just the ones over that limit (the limit of fastest speed X 0.2 / 0.28). 
     
    Or set all the speeds to your current outer shell speed (and also make sure they are all below that stated speed limit I mentioned).
     
  24. gr5's post in Cura 5.3.1: slicing issue with very small part of .stl model was marked as the answer   
    light and dark blue lines are TRAVEL MOVES.  As opposed to EXTRUDING MOVES.
     
    You need to understand what those two terms mean.  Extruding moves means plastic comes out.  Travel moves are mandatory.  You can't get the print head from place A to place B without moving the print head.  Travel moves should not create strings but sometimes they do.
     
    red, yellow, green, teal lines on the screen represent PLASTIC.  blue lines represent movements (no plastic).
     
    Are you following me?
     
    In general DARK BLUE = BAD (in that some plastic will leak out.
    LIGHT BLUE = GOOD (no plastic comes out - hopefully)
     
    If you understand nothing else, know that dark blue moves *might* create strings.  Light blue moves should not.  Sometimes they do anyway but that is a hardware issue, not a cura issue.
     
     
  25. gr5's post in Ultimaker S5 takes 18 minutes to start print was marked as the answer   
    It might be normal, yes.
     
    So before it prints it has to do active leveling and for that it can't have solid filament on the nozzle so it heats the bed and the nozzle to prevent any filament from throwing off the leveling adjustment - even 0.1mm of error would be bad.
     
    So look in cura at the bed temp as the bed takes the longest to heat up.  If you are printing say ABS then you probably want around 110C bed temp and that can indeed take 15 minutes when you include heating up the nozzles also.  But if you are printing PLA than it should only take, I'd guess, 5 minutes before it starts leveling.
     
    As far as 15 minutes to abort, that can be avoided.   For safety reasons (which I disagree with), it waits for the bed to get below the safety temp before allowing you to print again.  I hate this feature.  You can disable it with this tool (ultituner):
     
    https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/39188-ultituner-a-tool-to-tweak-your-printer/
     
    I remember putting a towel on the bed after an abort so I could keep the bed hot to quickly restart the print.  Well this slowed down things even more!  I was quite mad.  It was not obvious that it was trying to cool down.
     
    Also you can go into the second menu on the left and click on bed and in top right click "..." and then something like "set bed temp" and then you can see the current temp of the heated bed and if it is going up or down (which provides hints).  Similary you can check the temps of the nozzles.
     
    After a print there is also a short delay (maybe 20 seconds) to do a semi-cold pull to avoid tiny strings in the bowden jamming the filament which is a very good feature.  But waiting for the bed to cool?  No way.  Absolutely hate that feature with a passion.
     
     
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