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psiewert

The UltiFaker (Ultimaker 2 Go clone) - Build documentary

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I recently built a CNC router from scratch for a fraction of the cost that it would take to purchase brand new. The concept of building a computer controlled piece of equipment by hand and having it function so flawlessly was really addicting. I've always wanted a 3D printer but the cost of a good one like UltiMaker or MakerBot was just too much to swallow. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the engineering and time that goes into these machines and get why the Ultimaker 2 Go is $1500 but I was curious if I could do better. I took the open source files that Ultimaker graciously posts and recreated them in SolidWorks with a handful of modifications. I wanted the panels to be machinable on my router and the remaining components to be sourecable and not necessarily custom made. Here's what I came up with.

5a3318839486e_UltiFaker2GoIso.thumb.PNG.daf8c35794d29b52c152693c3dcfcd4d.PNG

5a33188436b41_UltiFaker2GoMechanical.thumb.PNG.b6e6f7da1989ac5550a865bd4116c934.PNG

First off you can clearly see I'm going with the RepRapDiscount 2004 LCD smart controller and Ramps 1.4 running Marlin instead of the Ultimaker controller with the OLED panel. Even if I were to purchase a knockoff Ultimaker controller you're talking $170 vs $45 for the RepRap and Ramps. So far my running estimated production cost is less than $600.

I'll be posting pictures, part files, and a bill of materials as I go. If anyone has questions please feel free to ask. I'm more than willing to share everything I can.

5a3318839486e_UltiFaker2GoIso.thumb.PNG.daf8c35794d29b52c152693c3dcfcd4d.PNG

5a33188436b41_UltiFaker2GoMechanical.thumb.PNG.b6e6f7da1989ac5550a865bd4116c934.PNG

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Just 2 thinks I don't see that sure you might have already consider.

That kind of boards need cooling on the board right?

Also probably just my mistake, but I don't see the Z nut attached to the bed/zrod.

& the linear bearings on the sides of the bed seem much shorter than the 57mm standard on umo+/um2 I suppose that will take some stability to the bed?

Maybe you might wan't to add the gt2 spacers for more stability.

And, since it's a clone, why not build a better bed, to use the room, and make 2 side holes on the side of the um2 so the fans can avoid hitting the sides.

5a331885f28ee_IMG_9227copia.thumb.jpg.8afeaf6931b56336c2756761c9107daa.jpg

Or maybe just remove the fans from the head (less weight) and install a crossflow fan...

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Just 2 thinks I don't see that sure you might have already consider.

That kind of boards need cooling on the board right?

Also probably just my mistake, but I don't see the Z nut attached to the bed/zrod.

& the linear bearings on the sides of the bed seem much shorter than the 57mm standard on umo+/um2 I suppose that will take some stability to the bed?

Maybe you might wan't to add the gt2 spacers for more stability.

And, since it's a clone, why not build a better bed, to use the room, and make 2 side holes on the side of the um2 so the fans can avoid hitting the sides.

5a331885f28ee_IMG_9227copia.thumb.jpg.8afeaf6931b56336c2756761c9107daa.jpg

Or maybe just remove the fans from the head (less weight) and install a crossflow fan...

 

The Ramps 1.4 board is a passive cooling setup under the loads it will probably see on this rig. If necessary I can add a fan under the unit.

Yeah the drawing I had here doesn't show the lead screw nut yet. I've got to add it. I'm about to upload some new pictures/drawings as well.

I went with these bearings for the time being because I had them available. I did order the LMK12LUU linear bearings just in case but they're coming from China. The bearings I have installed right now are actually high precision bearings that only allow like .0005" of shaft misalignment so they actually work really well.

The thing that I actually see with the design that limits print area isn't that the fans hit the wall, the problem is that the XY axis guide blocks hit the timing belt pulleys. At a certain point it's unavoidable. Also, keep in mind that this is my first 3D printer so I didn't want to go TOO far beyond the already tested design. I can always easily cut new panels and buy different components to upgrade the unit in the future.

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Here's some updates to the build :)

So first off I've got new 3D model views. Some components have changed slightly as you'll see in the pictures.

5a33189c92b99_UltiFaker2Go.thumb.PNG.f34836b67f75cd816319b8fe45b602c3.PNG

5a33189d3b1df_UltiFaker2GoInternals.thumb.PNG.9888a424f03f287dfdbe8411aad55ac5.PNG

I started by attaching the LED strips to the front panel. Don't judge my wiring and soldering too much. It's a pain in the ass to wire these tiny things with an under-powered soldering iron.

IMG_4712.thumb.JPG.5e4b4994d33da96444fe6828f883d21d.JPG

Next I assembled the remaining panels and added the power supply to the base.

IMG_4715.thumb.JPG.5d3f8861e968f66cf0400be11d62cfef.JPG

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Here's a quick test of the LED's. Looks fantastic in person!

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1.thumb.jpg.9bcd6cf5536a75aa2cfe8280563e5cd7.jpg

Next I added the z axis support rods and bed. Still waiting on additional components from China so this is where I'll leave it for a week or so.

IMG_4723.thumb.JPG.ae3232ab82204dcd4c50fdd9de126eb0.JPG

5a33189c92b99_UltiFaker2Go.thumb.PNG.f34836b67f75cd816319b8fe45b602c3.PNG

5a33189d3b1df_UltiFaker2GoInternals.thumb.PNG.9888a424f03f287dfdbe8411aad55ac5.PNG

IMG_4712.thumb.JPG.5e4b4994d33da96444fe6828f883d21d.JPG

IMG_4715.thumb.JPG.5d3f8861e968f66cf0400be11d62cfef.JPG

IMG_4718.thumb.JPG.47aefed05cf988eed2be3b606d0b51a5.JPG

IMG_4719.thumb.JPG.a3b8c7fc1cc5e7afe065d9a8dcd9f053.JPG

IMG_4720.thumb.JPG.4da35746b2eda52b76e80b0f4f2bdc78.JPG

1.thumb.jpg.9bcd6cf5536a75aa2cfe8280563e5cd7.jpg

IMG_4723.thumb.JPG.ae3232ab82204dcd4c50fdd9de126eb0.JPG

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