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Don't print straight onto the acrylic. Use painters tape (it's usually blue - or you can use frog brand green tape or you can use masking tape). Make sure you clean the tape with isopropyl (aka rubbing) alcohol first to remove the wax or your parts won't stick as well.
"then raises" I assume is what you mean when it does the G1 Z5 (go 5mm above the bed).
M109 - sets the temp and wait - this is probably where it seems to be stopping.
Some versions of marlin insist the temp doesn't fluctuate by even 1C over say 5 seconds and this is a bit extreme so maybe your temp is oscillating and Marlin refuses to start printing. You could try preheating yourself or you could use M104 (set temp but don't wait) combined with either M0 or M1.
M0 S100
Waits 100 seconds (most firmwares)
M1
Pauses until you tell the printer to continue - typically through some kind of controller or through usb command.
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gr5 2,230
Don't print straight onto the acrylic. Use painters tape (it's usually blue - or you can use frog brand green tape or you can use masking tape). Make sure you clean the tape with isopropyl (aka rubbing) alcohol first to remove the wax or your parts won't stick as well.
"then raises" I assume is what you mean when it does the G1 Z5 (go 5mm above the bed).
M109 - sets the temp and wait - this is probably where it seems to be stopping.
Some versions of marlin insist the temp doesn't fluctuate by even 1C over say 5 seconds and this is a bit extreme so maybe your temp is oscillating and Marlin refuses to start printing. You could try preheating yourself or you could use M104 (set temp but don't wait) combined with either M0 or M1.
M0 S100
Waits 100 seconds (most firmwares)
M1
Pauses until you tell the printer to continue - typically through some kind of controller or through usb command.
more about gcodes here:
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code
You might want to monitor the temperature carefully and see if it's oscillating a lot - if so maybe you should do a PID autotune.
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