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mayo77

After insulator change , both side fans are not working, now.

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So finally my 1st Teflon insulator went on my machine. I followed the guide i found on this website and successfully changed it. Prints seemed to get better. Then i noticed this morning both my side fans were not working. I found out upon reassembly of the print head I must have pinched the fan wire, and cut it.(i really wish this would have been mentioned in the guide to be AWARE of the fan wires, but anyways, in the end it was my fault, but i wish it was mentioned as it really should be.)

I shut down the machine and cut out the damaged piece of wire added a small piece of wire and soldered it back together, increasing the length.  The connections should be fine since i soldered them together, and the fan does in fact have power.

If i touch the fan or blow on the fan it starts going, but it can never seem to do it on its own.  

Any ideas ?

Where can i buy just fans, can i grab them off ebay, or do i need 70$ OEM fans, kinda tired of buying parts for this thing :/ costing me a fortune.

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The solder and longer wire could be causing slight lag but I've never seen a problem like it.

It may be worth contacting Ultimaker to see if you can buy a fan pack. I work in the UK

so I am not sure of the shipping cost for Canada. It may be worth in the long run buying some

better fans.

 

I went through support in USA and they told me it was a blown PWM controller on the board. SO BE warned if you pinch your fan wires you can SHORT out youir board and you will have to buy a new board.

This mistake costed me 500$ Canadian to fix, as i had to replace the entire board.

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The solder and longer wire could be causing slight lag but I've never seen a problem like it.

It may be worth contacting Ultimaker to see if you can buy a fan pack. I work in the UK

so I am not sure of the shipping cost for Canada. It may be worth in the long run buying some

better fans.

 

I went through support in USA and they told me it was a blown PWM controller on the board. SO BE warned if you pinch your fan wires you can SHORT out youir board and you will have to buy a new board.

This mistake costed me 500$ Canadian to fix, as i had to replace the entire board.

 

You sent me a pm about how I fixed mine.

I wrote down how I did it on this posts

This speaks for the first and second time I had to fix the transistor bc817

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11366-cooling-fan-always-on-umo-update-now-voltage-its-0

This is the third and fourth I think.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17214-fan-pwm-output-0v-umo-board-solved-not-solved

And this shows photos atep by step (very rough) of how I do it the seventh time:

http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=12&p=2513&hilit=Bc817#p2513

You need a solder with temp pwm (or one with a very fine tip). Or & a airblower for desolder. Lead wire. Patience. And it helps a lot to have a copper wire and some reflow (reflow with copper wire + heat takes the soldered stuff quite fast)

You will need to learn how to do it with other board. I used a dead old phone circuit. When you can solder/desolder this on a dead board then you can do it with the um2.1 board.

Also, it's easy when you do it 2-3 times. But the first time I paid a guy to change the transistor, the second time a friend showed me how to do it and the third-seventh I did it.

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The solder and longer wire could be causing slight lag but I've never seen a problem like it.

It may be worth contacting Ultimaker to see if you can buy a fan pack. I work in the UK

so I am not sure of the shipping cost for Canada. It may be worth in the long run buying some

better fans.

 

I went through support in USA and they told me it was a blown PWM controller on the board. SO BE warned if you pinch your fan wires you can SHORT out youir board and you will have to buy a new board.

This mistake costed me 500$ Canadian to fix, as i had to replace the entire board.

 

You sent me a pm about how I fixed mine.

I wrote down how I did it on this posts

This speaks for the first and second time I had to fix the transistor bc817

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11366-cooling-fan-always-on-umo-update-now-voltage-its-0

This is the third and fourth I think.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17214-fan-pwm-output-0v-umo-board-solved-not-solved

And this shows photos atep by step (very rough) of how I do it the seventh time:

http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=12&p=2513&hilit=Bc817#p2513

You need a solder with temp pwm (or one with a very fine tip). Or & a airblower for desolder. Lead wire. Patience. And it helps a lot to have a copper wire and some reflow (reflow with copper wire + heat takes the soldered stuff quite fast)

You will need to learn how to do it with other board. I used a dead old phone circuit. When you can solder/desolder this on a dead board then you can do it with the um2.1 board.

Also, it's easy when you do it 2-3 times. But the first time I paid a guy to change the transistor, the second time a friend showed me how to do it and the third-seventh I did it.

 

Awesome thanks so much for this one more thing can you please show me the exact transistor to buy please! i will probably just buy the part and find someone else to do the work, if i cant find anyone i will try but id rather have a pro do it first.

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If you read all the posts, you find that info.

It's the BC817 for SMD boards. I think there are 3 kind of them

https://www.taitroncomponents.com/catalog/Datasheet/BC817-16.pdf

I really don't know witch one of the 3 I have, I bough a strip of 20 on an electronics shop. But if I remember well I have the -25

The best way to find out, get a magnifying glass and check the transistor of your board. It's written on top of it. On mines it says 6B so it's a -25

This guy posted a ifixit guide and says he used a -40

There was a guy that posted a guide of how to do it. On his guide it says -40

 

List of models

http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BC817_BC817W_BC337.pdf

Maybe someone with Altium License (my free test version expired long ago) can open the altium files and check what model they use on the 2.1 boards

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1546%20ultimainboard%20V2.1.4

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If you read all the posts, you find that info.

It's the BC817 for SMD boards. I think there are 3 kind of them

https://www.taitroncomponents.com/catalog/Datasheet/BC817-16.pdf

I really don't know witch one of the 3 I have, I bough a strip of 20 on an electronics shop. But if I remember well I have the -25

The best way to find out, get a magnifying glass and check the transistor of your board. It's written on top of it. On mines it says 6B so it's a -25

This guy posted a ifixit guide and says he used a -40

There was a guy that posted a guide of how to do it. On his guide it says -40

 

List of models

http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BC817_BC817W_BC337.pdf

Maybe someone with Altium License (my free test version expired long ago) can open the altium files and check what model they use on the 2.1 boards

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1546%20ultimainboard%20V2.1.4

 

Thanks so much for the help, i really appreciate it. After your tip, of magnifying glass. I checked my v 2.1.4 board and found out I have the same transistor as you The on top it reads "6BW 25" also known as the "BC817-25" resistor on my board. I ordered a 50 lot (i couldn't find lower lot for the exact same transistor) on ebay for 11$ lol. If i can fix this 500$ board for 11$(+ 50-100 labor) i will be super happy. So now i will just wait for the parts. Once the parts arrive i will try to find a local SMD solderer, if i cant find one i will practice like you said on old board (i have tonnes of old motherboards here). Do it myself if need be, but that might cost more because i will need to buy an soldering iron and everything... Kapton tape is another great tip so thanks! Wow im so happy thanks so much, for all your help!

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