Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thnaks i have yes he has tonnes of great information which has helped me order new filament ( coming in the mail ) which i hope should be good enough.
  2. Does this pertain to all ultimakers ? including ultimaker original, ultimaker 2 and ultimaker 2+ or just the newest ultimakers.
  3. buy a new board, that one looks pooched. unless you want to try and figure out whats wrong with it.. there are schematics out there.
  4. Sure I realize that but swapping nozzles all the time isn't something i want to do. I need to print at 4mm all the time and i really dont want to bother changing the nozzle / and manually releveling the bed constantly( i do run a ultimaker 2 that need to be manually leveled after every nozzle swap), Id rather just pay more for filament that works for my setup. Thanks though for the obvious solution, but for me that wont work.
  5. I think PC filament is too "bendy" for what im looking for. Tensile strenght /flexular modulus are much to low on that spec sheet but thank you for the suggestion. I think ill just purchase fiber force filament.
  6. Yep but that depends on the filament, thats why im looking into this 😛.. like i said fiber force carbon fiber should work no problem with my nozzle but the price per gram is insane. In the end if it works ill buy that, just looking for a better price per gram solution if possible.
  7. Thanks yeah i have read that too the only problem with that specific filament from what i have gathered through the specs sheet/reviews online, is its meant to be used with a .6 or larger nozzle.I only have a .4 mm nozzle so im not sure this is my solution for my setup. I am now considering esun carbon fiber or maybe fiber force but fiber force is really expensive for small rolls, and not sure if its worth it but it apparently works well with smaller nozzles. Yup got many replacement steel teeth for my feeder onhand and an olsson ruby nozzle as mentioned earlier in this post. I think that should work out, but i really have no experience first hand on this subject, its all been just research so please, correct me if I'm wrong. IS the bond tech feeder really required?
  8. I have tried a generic nylon filament in the past and all i wanted to do was rip my hair out because no matter what i used gluestick/ hairspray/ slurry/ brim nothing ever worked and the filament would always curl up and come off the print bed. This would drive me mental. I basically want something that prints parts to at accuracy of pla but is very ridged and strong (weight bearing), price is not an issue. I will add I have an olsson ruby , running on an ultimaker 2. So i believe I can print the vast majority of filaments. I have been looking at xstrand and polycarbonite & carbon fiber but I'm willing to try anything as long as they meet my main requirements. 1) Fairly easy to print, i don't want to have to fight with printing this. 2) much more rigid than pla or abs ( and pla + or tough is NOT strong enough as that's what i regularly use) 3) Little to no flex, but not weak on a drop/ impact. 4) Able to take alot of weight prior to breaking Any one have any recommendations.
  9. The z axis on my ultimaker 2 extended, need to be replaced can anyone point me to the exact part numbers i would need to fix this.
  10. I actually figured this out prior you mentioning this but yes your exactly correct that was the issue. My motherboard was shot (j46 plug in) the little fan was not working at all. I had to repair my motherboard to solve this issue but your exactly right that was the issue was the ptfe coupler fan was not turning on. This ended up not being related to the Olsson ruby at all, as my printer has been printing perfectly for days now with the olsson ruby. Thanks so much I figured i should mention the solution for me, so anyone else that came across this issue this may help.
  11. Did you ever solve this issue? I am having exactly the same issues with a ruby nozzle, and ran across this thread. I have tried everything even mentioned in this thread and yet the problem persists I really want to use this specific nozzle but non stop failures due to under extrusion, just wont work for me. One thing i have noticed is when i remove the material after a "under extrusion failure" the last 33mm of the filament are slightly thicker than the rest. I believe this could be the issue but i have replaced the PTFE coupler many times entire hotend a few times and the problem still persists.
  12. I just wanted to chime in here. I was having the same issues. This is what i recommend. Check if Just the heated bed or just the head is the issue. I heated my bed up had no issues, tried the head it shorted out instantly, so i knew it was a head issue. Turns out it seemed to be the heater cartridge cord (longer and thicker of the two chords plugged into the olsson block on ultimaker 2) was rubbing against the fan shroud on the back of the head, it worn through and was shorting out. I just bend the fan shroud down so it wasn't rubbing that cord, and the problem disappeared. Didn't have to replace nothing, its been working fine now for a few hours. WIll update if it comes back. (if i dont write back this is my solution)
  13. Ok well, i need to add something the noise did return after a few days, this time I replaced the belt and I'm almost postive that is the issue. I will update this thread if the sound comes back again, but its been 24 straight printing and its still quiet.
  14. Thanks but, my "update 3" from above seems to have fixed my annoying loud problem, but thank you so much.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!