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mayo77

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  1. I just wanted to chime in here. I was having the same issues. This is what i recommend. Check if Just the heated bed or just the head is the issue. I heated my bed up had no issues, tried the head it shorted out instantly, so i knew it was a head issue. Turns out it seemed to be the heater cartridge cord (longer and thicker of the two chords plugged into the olsson block on ultimaker 2) was rubbing against the fan shroud on the back of the head, it worn through and was shorting out. I just bend the fan shroud down so it wasn't rubbing that cord, and the problem disappeared. Didn't have to replace nothing, its been working fine now for a few hours. WIll update if it comes back. (if i dont write back this is my solution)
  2. Ok well, i need to add something the noise did return after a few days, this time I replaced the belt and I'm almost postive that is the issue. I will update this thread if the sound comes back again, but its been 24 straight printing and its still quiet.
  3. Thanks but, my "update 3" from above seems to have fixed my annoying loud problem, but thank you so much.
  4. Yah i have replacement belts but these belts look fine so im not changing yet. I dunno how many hours i have but, its alot. Anyways i did find a permanent solution (i think) My first update on was a temporary solution as the grinding noise came back within the first 24 hours of printing... Update 2: I believe this is the permanent solution if not i will come back and write another update: I solved this annoying sound by flipping the Gear on the top shaft around, so the counter sink screw was in the back not in the front. Since the gear is about 1 cm thicker on that size, this added enough space that the teeth of the belt were not grinding the front lip, anymore. The belt maybe a bit to tight on the other side now but, I have had zero issues and zero annoying sound since this change, and the printer works perfectly again. I think you could also just 3d print an approx 5mm spacer instead of flipping, but i decide to try this first.. SO FAR SO GOOD. Update 3: This in the end was just too tight and it was shredding the belt too quickly as it added 6mm. SO i flipped the gear back to the way it was originally and 3d printed (4 spacers), a 2mm thick, 3mm thick, 4mm thick, and a 5mm thick that i could slide on the end of the shaft between the gear and the bearing. I am currently using a 2 mm spacer, and will replace with higher if required. Edited 2 minutes ago by mayo77
  5. Can you please tell me the exact grease you used i am having the same issue, if i adjust the belt the noise goes away for a short peroid of time then it comes back.. I would liek to try this solution but i dont want to order the wrong grease so if you could help me out i would appreciate it. UPDATE: I solved this annoying sound by flipping the Gear on the top shaft around, so the counter sink screw was in the back not in the front. Since the gear is about 6mm thicker on that size, this added enough space that the teeth of the belt were not grinding anymore. The belt maybe a bit to tight on the other side now but, I have had zero issues and zero sound since this change. Update 2: This in the end was just too tight and it started shredding the belt. SO i flipped the gear back to the way it was originally and 3d printed (4 spacers), a 2mm thick, 3mm thick, 4mm thick, and a 5mm thick that i could slide on the end of the shaft between the gear and the bearing. I am currently using a 2 mm spacer, and will replace with higher if required. UPDATE 3: The noise returned yet again, then i tried a few other spacers.When the noise came back after i tried most the spacers, I decided to replaced the entire belt with a brand new one. The old belts "teeth" seemed slightly worn and i always got black streaks of rubber on my finger when i ran it against the belt...Also removed all the spacers as well, and set it back to the way it was originally. Its has been silent for 24+ hours (straight printing) so i assume this is the fix but, only time will tell..again i will update this thread if the noise comes back again. If its not updated assume this is the solution that worked for me.
  6. @russlang you never did report back as promised :(... did you ever figure this irritating sound out my printer is making the same sound, but only on one axis...I think its grinding of the belts, stepper motor itself or the actual bearings (holding the rods) but, im not postive because as im sure you already know its pretty hard to pin point the location because it just sounds like its coming from "everywhere". The sound coming from your machine is exactly the same as mine, this is why im asking if you ever figured it out. Also I just ordered a stethoscope as i thought that was a great idea when you mentioned it, hopefully help pin point this. Also anyone else reading this , I promise I will come back and post my solution if i ever find one as well, as this is annoying to figure out. UPDATE: I found the issue. For me this sound ended up being the small belt connected to the stepper in the far right corner of my ultimaker. To check if this is your problem, loosen the set screw on that gear to that belt (alot) and move the head by hand (and do not let that belt move). After i noticed the sound was coming only from that belt, I worked the belt back and forth and got it "centered" again. Then i re tightened the set screw, all has been silent since.
  7. Did you ever get this working? This is what i did: I hooked the 24v 1.5 amp blower fan to the j20 (fan 18-24v) plug. I printed the exact same fan duct , I hooked up the blower fan... i plug in my ultimaker and the blower fan doesn't turn on. I left it on for about 1 minute and still it never turned on. From what i read that 24v plug is supposedly always on if the utimaker is on, so why isn't it working? In fact it smells like it the fan may be cooked ? Shouldn't the blower fan turn on the second the ultimaker is turned on? UPDATE: I figured this out, the fan or the board (unsure which) had the polarity wrong. I had to splice the fan wire and connect the positive to the negative wire and visa versa , because the controller had the + and neg on opposite sides. I now have it up and working but man almost had a heartattack thought i roasted my board at first.
  8. ..added to main post I figured out the answer myself by installing cura on a separate computer, since this forum was taking too long to answer. The answer if anyone wants to know the defaults are min travel - .7 enable combing - all minimal extrusion - .02 Z hop - 0.0
  9. I was fooling around with my retraction settings and i just want to revert back to how it was set up before it worked much better. These are the setting i want to know
  10. Yup if need be ill do that, but ill try my ebay specials first as they are literally 25 x cheaper. I see no harm in trying, a dollar each, isn't much risk.. I also heard stories people told me about no using low end filament on this forum, and I'm using the lowest end filament i could find, and i find it superior to the name brand stuff that came with my machine. So i dont by all the "this brand" is better hype, until i at least try it, not sure why everyone keeps telling me not to.. its 5$ if they suck oh well, ill get better ones if they are even 1/4 as good i still saved 20$. If they suck , its 5$ who cares....
  11. Yeah if they suck it was only 5$ down the tubes so not much of a loss to me anyways. If they are even half decent thats pretty amazing 5 Nozzles for 5$ shipped.. So either way im fine with it I'm not scared to use other stuff i also heard about the don't use other filament minus ... colourfab//faberche/ultimaker ect. I am currently using really dirt cheep filament and it works great in fact even better than a few of the other 3x more expensive brands. So yeah im fine with just testing them out for 5$, if they work out thats about 30 nozzles for the same price as one, if not i lost 5$ , which is pretty minor.
  12. Thanks so much for the help, i really appreciate it. After your tip, of magnifying glass. I checked my v 2.1.4 board and found out I have the same transistor as you The on top it reads "6BW 25" also known as the "BC817-25" resistor on my board. I ordered a 50 lot (i couldn't find lower lot for the exact same transistor) on ebay for 11$ lol. If i can fix this 500$ board for 11$(+ 50-100 labor) i will be super happy. So now i will just wait for the parts. Once the parts arrive i will try to find a local SMD solderer, if i cant find one i will practice like you said on old board (i have tonnes of old motherboards here). Do it myself if need be, but that might cost more because i will need to buy an soldering iron and everything... Kapton tape is another great tip so thanks! Wow im so happy thanks so much, for all your help!
  13. I went through support in USA and they told me it was a blown PWM controller on the board. SO BE warned if you pinch your fan wires you can SHORT out youir board and you will have to buy a new board. This mistake costed me 500$ Canadian to fix, as i had to replace the entire board. You sent me a pm about how I fixed mine. I wrote down how I did it on this posts This speaks for the first and second time I had to fix the transistor bc817 https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11366-cooling-fan-always-on-umo-update-now-voltage-its-0 This is the third and fourth I think. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17214-fan-pwm-output-0v-umo-board-solved-not-solved And this shows photos atep by step (very rough) of how I do it the seventh time: http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=12&p=2513&hilit=Bc817#p2513 You need a solder with temp pwm (or one with a very fine tip). Or & a airblower for desolder. Lead wire. Patience. And it helps a lot to have a copper wire and some reflow (reflow with copper wire + heat takes the soldered stuff quite fast) You will need to learn how to do it with other board. I used a dead old phone circuit. When you can solder/desolder this on a dead board then you can do it with the um2.1 board. Also, it's easy when you do it 2-3 times. But the first time I paid a guy to change the transistor, the second time a friend showed me how to do it and the third-seventh I did it. Awesome thanks so much for this one more thing can you please show me the exact transistor to buy please! i will probably just buy the part and find someone else to do the work, if i cant find anyone i will try but id rather have a pro do it first.
  14. You don't need to buy the expensive utimaker filament I bought the cheep stuff i have ZERO issues with it, prints fine and is less than half the price. The brainwashing of "you must ultimaker everything crap" is exactly that crap, buy 1 roll of the "cheap" stuff see what you think. This is the ultimaker website so obviously they try and push their product.. but is it superior, in my opinion no. I have 8 rolls of the cheap stuff (i got 1 kg for 29$ shipped) printing daily and i find the cheap abs is better than the ultimaker 65$ per 750 grams ABS in fact lol. I will never buy a roll of filament from ultimaker unless they cut their prices in half.
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