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Fjhollings

2+ warping problem

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Posted · 2+ warping problem

Hello all,

We are experiencing a problem with prints on our Ultimaker 2+ plate warping at the edges, sometimes so much that the print begins to peel off of the plate.

I've tried printing with brim, turning the build plate heat up a bit (to 67 degrees) and printing on both a bare build plate and one with a thin layer of glue. We are printing with PLA at the suggested settings and choosing build options through the latest build of Cura.

Any suggestions, tips, etc would be really appreciated!

5a331e743f7a5_warp1.thumb.JPG.3f14b2924b684d79a3b0b760f89b52dd.JPG

5a331e746f5f4_warp2.thumb.JPG.8e33830872fe13894dba6234443925c0.JPG

5a331e743f7a5_warp1.thumb.JPG.3f14b2924b684d79a3b0b760f89b52dd.JPG

5a331e746f5f4_warp2.thumb.JPG.8e33830872fe13894dba6234443925c0.JPG

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Posted · 2+ warping problem

Hi and welcome,

Adding a brim should definitely help.

Did you apply gluestick on the bed? You can also look for some 3d spray like 3dlac or dimafix to help for adhesion!

The first layer is crucial, it has to be squished enough to make sure that the print is well stuck to the bed, how is your first layer looking?

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Posted · 2+ warping problem

You aren't squishing your bottom layer enough.

There's "level" and then there's "level".

The latest leveling procedure with the card makes it so that when the z=0.3mm the nozzle is 0.3mm off the glass and that is where it prints the bottom level (by default in Cura anyway) and that is how much filament is extruded (enough to make a bottom layer .3mm thick).

This works great when you need dimensionally PERFECT parts - where the absolute bottom layer can't have a skirt - not even .1mm of skirt (not visible without a microscope or micrometer).

However this results in parts that don't stick well. So instead I level things a little lower (a lot lower). This way the bottom layer is extruding pancake-like brim or skirt. To achieve this - anytime after doing the leveling procedure (I rarely run it anymore) just adjust the 3 screws counter clockwise about a half turn. The next time you print something make sure the brim or skirt is squished flatter than nominal. It will stick much better.

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Posted · 2+ warping problem

skirt.thumb.png.6b55ac68e85d4be60c98ec88f89bf5ca.png

Here are examples where the bed is too close to the nozzle (0mm off the bed) to too far apart (.35mm example where it completely fails similar to your print).

I prefer a skirt like the blue filament above where it is well squished and sticks well.  The more squished it is the better it sticks.  On rare occasions I can't have even .1mm of brim on the part so I can't squish it at all for dimensional reasons - so parts fit.  In those rare cases I am more for the red line amount of thickness.

skirt.thumb.png.6b55ac68e85d4be60c98ec88f89bf5ca.png

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Posted · 2+ warping problem

Thanks for the tips! I'll look into bringing the build plate up a bit more closer to the nozzle during calibration. Do you make "on the fly" adjustments during the print after the first layer or leave it be?

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Posted · 2+ warping problem

Only during first layer. The remaining layers are put down after moving the Z axis an exact amount e.g. .2mm and so will be perfect. It's only the first layer that is affected by the 3 leveling screws.

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