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It could be a bad endstop. Find someone with a multimeter and measure the resitance when the endstop hasn't triggered - it should be an open (infinite ohms or certainly > 100k ohms) then the more likely problem - close the switch with your finger and measure again and it should be 0 ohms ( < 10 ohms is good enough). It's probably a bad wire. If this test fails then check again where the wire connects to the switch.
if this all passes you could have a faulty board (most likely missing a resistor) or it's plugged in the wrong place (check instructions). You can also install pronterface on a PC and connect it through USB and it will tell you which switches are closed and you can test them all by pushing on them.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,167
It could be a bad endstop. Find someone with a multimeter and measure the resitance when the endstop hasn't triggered - it should be an open (infinite ohms or certainly > 100k ohms) then the more likely problem - close the switch with your finger and measure again and it should be 0 ohms ( < 10 ohms is good enough). It's probably a bad wire. If this test fails then check again where the wire connects to the switch.
if this all passes you could have a faulty board (most likely missing a resistor) or it's plugged in the wrong place (check instructions). You can also install pronterface on a PC and connect it through USB and it will tell you which switches are closed and you can test them all by pushing on them.
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