Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Shane

Ulicreatr 2X dual Extrusion upgrade problems

Recommended Posts

My 2+ Extended keeps shutting down at the end of the bed preheat right before it preheats the nozzle before a print.

After the shut down it immediately restarts.

If I try to print a again, after restart, it shuts down about 1/2 way through the bed preheat. Sooner than before.

Theres no shutdown during manual preheat for bed and nozzle individually.

If I slice with the heated bed turned off I don't get a shutdown but still cant print because feeder 1 is inverted.

If I revert back to default firmware and unplug the kit hardware and plug in the original nozzle the machine works.

The nozzle heater blocks on this kit have 2 heating elements each and theres also an additional fan and heatsink on the print head.

I think the firmware is leapfrog.

This kit appears to consume more power than the original equipment.

Is this a power issue or maybe firmware settings.

I'm reaching out to the community for help on this matter because my machine has been down for about three weaks.

Perhaps Creatr support team is preoccupied with other projects. I don't know.

Can anybody Help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They made it so it can only work with the bed off since it uses 80W heaters.

Also that means now that I think of it, that it quite sucks (sorry creatr) if you try to print with one nozzle... Wow didn't occur to me until now.

Max power for 1 heating element + bed I think it's around 50W (without changing the power brick). I have a 280W powersupply that I used when trying to make a dualhotend system and with that I was able to heat x2 40W hotends. So, I don't see how creatr it's going to allow 1 print nozzle + bed without more mods or changing the heaters...

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you sure their 80W. 80w divided by 24 volts is 3.333333Amps.

I used a fluke 374 clamp meter in min/max mode to check current on the bed(6.5amps), LED's(0.3amps),dual cooling fans on the head(0.3amps)(I don't mean the 2 material cooling fans).one heating element of the hot end(1.7amps). If those blocks are 80w that over 10 amps. just for those 4 items. And that's not everthing at work. I didn't want to cut the cord on the expensive stock power source to check the overall current draw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's still to much current for my power source. gr5 said that the mother board pathways are identical for the hot end and heated bed. The bed is listed at 7.5amps so I'm guessing the hot end board path can handle the same. Does the marlin firmware require power source specifics. I looked on e-bay and there's plenty of options for under$100.00. 24v 12,13,14 and even 15 amp. Just need to add cords. So this would work. I just don't know much about the information the firmware requires to add this type of power source.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Taking Advantage of DfAM
      This is a statement that’s often made about AM/3DP. I'll focus on the way DfAM can take advantage of some of the unique capabilities that AM and 3DP have to offer. I personally think that the use of AM/3DP for light-weighting is one of it’s most exciting possibilities and one that could play a key part in the sustainability of design and manufacturing in the future.
        • Like
      • 3 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!