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Temp Sensor e3D volcano DirectDrive setup

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Hello,

I opened a topic on this earlier, but I'm now facing a new issue. I have a e3D volcano hot end setup as a direct drive on my Ultimaker 2 (See image below)

I've been having temperature sensor issues, but I can't use the temperature sensor's Ultimaker makes because they break at the heat I'm heating up to (+290 C).

So I had to buy a PT100 sensor from e3D that is supposed to work with the Ultimaker; however, whenever I start heating the nozzle up, the temperature sensor doesn't read any change, and eventually I get the error - temp sensor message.

Does any one have any ideas what is wrong, and how I can fix it?

PS - I've measured the sensor resistance. It's 110 ohm.

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Strange. The pt100 from e3d should work. I've also used them. The 110 ohm is OK.  If you just heat or cool it outside of the printer  (like warm it up in your hand) does the ohm reading change?

And if you get it to work you know you need to change pid settings for that big block right?

I wasn't sure if I needed to, but I guess I need to calibrate the sensor, correct?

Can you tell me how to do that. I'm sorry but I'm getting a lot of information online to weed through, and if you can answer me directly, that would be SUPER helpful.

-Thanks

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Strange. The pt100 from e3d should work. I've also used them. The 110 ohm is OK.  If you just heat or cool it outside of the printer  (like warm it up in your hand) does the ohm reading change?

And if you get it to work you know you need to change pid settings for that big block right?

I'm having a hard time getting the sensor out of the block, but I heated up the nozzle, turned off the machine and measured the resistance.

It didn't change. Still 108 ... what is going on?!?

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you need to calibrate because the mass of that block is soooo much more than the UM2 block. And what heater do you have? With the big block you may get better results with a 35 or 40 watt heater (it helped me when I used a E3Dv6)

You run auto PID to find the values for your hotend. Send the Gcode directly by connecting to the machine by USB, use software like Simplify3D or pronterface, and write down the values you get.

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M303:_Run_PID_tuning

I think its best to run it at your most used temperature. So if you mostly print at 250c you use gcode M303 S250

When you use the @tinkergnome firmware on your UM2 (which you should, its the best) you can directly set the new values on your machine;

advanced/preferences/temperature control/extruder

Download it here; https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

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oh... and out of curiosity... why are you doing this to that great machine? are you printing some strange and exotic material? as for any normal use that enormous mass you build into the head is like totally crazy IMHO ... and besides the mass the distance between axis and nozzle seems extreme.... I just can't see this setup produce any reasonable results....

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Strange. The pt100 from e3d should work. I've also used them. The 110 ohm is OK.  If you just heat or cool it outside of the printer  (like warm it up in your hand) does the ohm reading change?

And if you get it to work you know you need to change pid settings for that big block right?

I'm having a hard time getting the sensor out of the block, but I heated up the nozzle, turned off the machine and measured the resistance.

It didn't change. Still 108 ... what is going on?!?

Here's the reading in ohm vs the temperature....

https://www.yumpu.com/cs/document/view/44793898/pt100-resistance-table-micropik

if you don't see any change in resistance when temperature is changing it's probably defect ....

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