Look where the cable connects to the heated bed. There are 4 screws. That part often has a bad solder connection - especially since you removed it from the old bed to the new. I bet you just need to reheat the solder to let it flow again. Here is an old picture someone posted where you can see the 4 solder pads:
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gr5 2,172
So there are 3 errors. I'm not sure which 2 you get. Any of the 4 will halt a print. 1 is bed related. 2 are nozzle related. here they are:
ultimaker.com/ER01 Temp sensor
ultimaker.com/ER02 Temp sensor BED
ultimaker.com/ER03 Heater error
The heater error is when it doesn't heat up fast enough. The first 2 errors are never the heaters fault. You can get the temp sensor errors if your printer is below freezing temperatures when you turn it on (a more common problem than I would have thought - some people print in their cold garage).
Anyway if you get the first 2 errors there is absolutely no reason to touch the heater.
It's common for these sensors to fail above around 200C. You can't solder them because solder melts at these temps (lead solder 250C, lead free solder about 200C) so they are crimped. Some people have very carefully dremeled the temp sensor apart and repaired.
The newer temp sensors from 3dsolex and Ultimaker are just much more reliable than the ones from 2 years ago. I think you should just "bite the bullet" and get a new temp sensor.
The temp sensor on the bed is completely different. It's soldered in. It's very very rare for that to fail - I mean you can get the error but it's always the wiring is loose somewhere - most often at the connector on the bed - either the screws aren't tight or the solder connection breaks where the screw connector is soldered to the board. You can push and pull on that connector while the printer is on displaying bed temp and you might see the temp jump from 20C to 100C or 0C in an instant. if so then the problem is near that connector.
I've never heard of a bad PCB on a UM2 causing these errors. It's possible in theory but - it's all solid state. It just seems unlikely.
When you turn the printer on and just look at nozzle and bed temps. It should read around 20C (room temp). Does the temp just sit there? Or does it bounce around? If it bounces around then maybe it *is* the PCB.
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hellfingers 0
thank you for your precious advice Gr5,.. the only things that were not checked are the bed cable and the mother board, the bed and the pt100 came from my UMO+, she printed about 3h00...these parts are new..I will check my motherboard as soon as possible..Mostly i've seen that the error came when you put on the UM, mine begin the print and sometimes it's ok, sometimes not..
i hope it is the cable..
thank u again.
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