thanks so much for documenting this...
Sure--thanks to you for suggesting it, Joergen! It's like having a new A-B-asS-kicking machine! The difference is incredible. I've had no more extrusion "stickiness" developing with the resulting slowdowns and under-extrusion, plus I get better first layer line (wider) adhesion to bare warm glass and lower extrusion temperatures for the same end results.
For now, I'm just wrapping the heater block and top part of the nozzle with fiberglass bid tape (a bare, non-sticky-backed fiberglass weave cloth used in fiberglass resin fabrication). After wrapping as much as I can reasonably fit around the hot end (while trying to keep the aluminum nut and PEEK uncovered) I just hold it with a square knot at the end. Eventually I will design a new molded or machined insulator to fit over the aluminum block from above in my full box length stainless barrel design, but this is working so well, I probably won't be motivated to do so for awhile. This setup will probably print Taulman 618 nylon just fine and only the high temps required by polycarbonate or other high temp materials will likely motivate me to continue further development.
>I am using a 20x25mm alu cooling piece (I think it was used for a mosfet or
>transistor before, kind of a butterfly style) under the PEEK for even more
>cooling of the upper end of the tube,
I'll add that I thought about using something providing more cooling, but I wanted to limit the diameter of my aluminum locking nut to 14 mm so it could remain attached to the barrel/PEEK assembly during removal through the 14 mm hole in the aluminum plate, thus retaining its barrel position indexing. I also wanted to keep it thin to retain as much Z-height as possible (yeah--I know...I'll probably never use it all anyway). Despite having flats for a 10 mm wrench, the aluminum nut is only thick enough for two internal threads so it cannot be tightened super tight, but it does the job when tightened moderately and my aluminum heater block is nice and clean inside (and there's no source of leaks inside the aluminum block bore so it will remain clean). If the barrel became stuck in the aluminum block and posed significant resistance to removal, it would be necessary to use heat during disassembly to keep the moderately tight lock nut from turning and losing index (or maybe stripping). Once the aluminum nut is indexed and locked correctly, there is really no reason to every disassemble it unless something becomes damaged (like overheating the PEEK).
thanks so much for documenting this... this is also my current setup, since I had problems with the V2 0.4mm nozzle and ABS... the difference of Cal's setup to mine is I have shortened my PEEK by about 2mm, and instead of a flat alu counter nut, I am using a 20x25mm alu cooling piece (I think it was used for a mosfet or transistor before, kind of a butterfly style) under the PEEK for even more cooling of the upper end of the tube, in addition to aggressive silicone foam insulation around the alu heater block (front, sides and bottom, no foam on the back and top)
Link to post
Share on other sites