UM3-X Buildplate temps

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Just a quickie, on the UM3(X) I have seen not to put the buildplate above 100°C. But, can it safely go above that to 110°-120°C?

I know you can dial it up way above that, but will it damage the buildplate mechanisms?

[tomnagel 126]

you cannot damage it. At full power, it reaches 107-115 degrees, depending on tolerances, insulation and ambient temperature.

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Thank you. Just trying to get a better adhesion on some PC parts I am printing and worried about killing the system.

[tomnagel 126]

PC is not easy to get right. It warps, and when bed adhesion is too good, it chips your glass plate. We advise to print it with a raft. Remove the raft at high temperature, otherwise it is hard to remove from your object. Also the advanced printing kit is advised which contains a front door, but you can improvise that yourself easily.

Though PC is yet to be officially released for the UM3, the printing profiles are already in Cura. (it enables the raft by default)

Have you also read this?

Edited May 20, 2017 by Guest

[kmanstudios 1,120]

PC is not easy to get right. It warps, and when bed adhesion is too good, it chips your glass plate. We advise to print it with a raft. Remove the raft at high temperature, otherwise it is hard to remove from your object. Also the advanced printing kit is advised which contains a front door, but you can improvise that yourself easily.

Though PC is yet to be officially released for the UM3, the printing profiles are already in Cura. (it enables the raft by default)

Have you also read this?

Yes, I have read that. It was what gave me good results in the beginning. I have found a correlation between shape/mass and warping.

A decent amount of infill to increase mass and spread the heat.

Shapes that are fairly squareish/roundish, as opposed to oblong and oval are more prone to stay in place.

To alleviate those issues that are not addressed by the above, I did use a raft. I was surprised how easily I could get the raft off while still heated. I am loathed to use rafts, but if ya gotta, ya gotta. They can just be such a pain sometimes. But I was surprised with my last print.

Thanks again for all the added info and making sure I found the guide. And, PC is one of those I am working to get that right. It is a great material.

Ummm, I did not think the advanced printing kit was for the UM3 series yet.

For heat retention, I just tape some bubble wrap up across the opening and let the temp come up in the chamber before printing.

Edit, I forgot to mention that this stuff does overhangs better than anything I have seen so far.

Edited May 20, 2017 by Guest