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I don't think there is much of an advantage. Know that the heater area of the block will be warmer than where the temp sensor is. And the area closest to the temp sensor will be closest to the goal temperature. But the differences in temperature are not serious but I suppose they are large enough that every printer has it's own recommended print temperature for a given material (e.g. UM2 default PLA temp is I think 210C and UM3 is I think 200C).
I don't recommend 2 heaters but if you did that they would most likely be in parallel.
The 25W heater on UM3 core seems to be plenty even for the 0.8mm nozzle. I personally sell UM3 cores with 30W heaters which work fine and for UMO/UM2/UM2+ I sell heaters from 25W to 50W. Unless your fan shroud is touching the block, 35W seems to be more than enough for up to 2mm nozzles.
When you go to higher wattage heaters you need to mess with (adjust) the PID values that control the heater.
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gr5 2,069
I don't think there is much of an advantage. Know that the heater area of the block will be warmer than where the temp sensor is. And the area closest to the temp sensor will be closest to the goal temperature. But the differences in temperature are not serious but I suppose they are large enough that every printer has it's own recommended print temperature for a given material (e.g. UM2 default PLA temp is I think 210C and UM3 is I think 200C).
I don't recommend 2 heaters but if you did that they would most likely be in parallel.
The 25W heater on UM3 core seems to be plenty even for the 0.8mm nozzle. I personally sell UM3 cores with 30W heaters which work fine and for UMO/UM2/UM2+ I sell heaters from 25W to 50W. Unless your fan shroud is touching the block, 35W seems to be more than enough for up to 2mm nozzles.
When you go to higher wattage heaters you need to mess with (adjust) the PID values that control the heater.
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