Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted · Nylon (Taulmann 910 Alloy)

I did a bigger print with Taulmann Alloy 910.

 

First:

Print went surprisingly well without warping issues with the front cover in place and 3DLac as adhesive on the glass plate.

No stringing issues as well.

 

IMG_4281.thumb.JPG.adda2d40a7a693611fb7f3a73ad79370.JPG

(ignore the benchy, it's included just for size comparison;-)

 

To be solved issue:

The final print turned out to be not water tight!

So when I filled the bucket with water, it started to drop out and to fill even the walls...:-(

 

Looks like the stuff is not really bonding to well to itself, right?

While the print seems to be quite stable. Hm.

 

I did print this at 255°C which is already at the upper limit of the recommended temp. range.

 

Also I did dry the filament for 8hrs in an oven right before the print (at 75°C) and the filament was in a
polybox during print.

 

Any ideas, why this stuff does seem to not bind well enough to itself?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Nylon (Taulmann 910 Alloy)

    I can honestly say that I have never had any print with any filament be watertight when printed. Water is a very invasive thing and can get into any crevice. The suggested method is to get a bio-safe sealant like an epoxy that can be brushed or sprayed on to create a watertight seal against anything on the inside.

     

    That is one of the reasons I let my prints dry, at varying degrees of tilt, for several days before painting and trapping any moisture inside the walls or infills.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Nylon (Taulmann 910 Alloy)

    Well, i made some valve-blocks, which were driven with pressurized air up to 5 bar. Only one was not air-tight. The first attempts were printed at 100% infill, later versions at 50% with 3mm walls. I cut threads (~10mm) and sanded the sealing faces with wet sand paper. It all worked. And it was PLA. (But i have to admit, the last cases with ABS/ASA were cracky..)

    Oh, and there was a vase, printed by someone at 3D-Hubs with Colorfabb XT on a UM2 with very thin walls (0,5mm) - no water on the table!

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Nylon (Taulmann 910 Alloy)

    I have printed other things which are water tight already (okay, not on the UM3 but on the R3D N2).

    As you, dxp, I have used PLA back then.

     

    I wonder what I can change with the Nylon to get a better layer adhesion.

    Printing even slower? Hm.

    Edited by Bossler
    typo
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Nylon (Taulmann 910 Alloy)

    I would think that PETG would be a better choice for a watertight object. I think I will have to try something here soon with one of my upcoming prints to see if it is watertight afterall.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.9 stable released!
        Here comes Cura 5.9 and in this stable release we have lots of material and printer profiles for UltiMaker printers, including the newly released Sketch Sprint. Additionally, scarf seams have been introduced alongside even more print settings and improvements.  Check out the rest of this article to find out the details on all of that and more
          • Like
        • 5 replies
      • Introducing the UltiMaker Factor 4
        We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
          • Heart
          • Thanks
          • Like
        • 4 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...