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Hi my friend, your problem is not in your belt tightness but in the steps per mm as set by the firmware. If you haven't already switched to marlin, i would do so and then run print a calibration tool that give you a 100 mm margin ( more accurate for your self) then use the formula at prusa research to recalculate your steps per mm and change them in the firmware and voila dialed in super accurate, and by the way the extruder calibration should always be done hot so you get an accurate setting for the filament you're using. Get a book and write each filament down and it best temp etc,
Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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KitBadger 0
Hi my friend, your problem is not in your belt tightness but in the steps per mm as set by the firmware. If you haven't already switched to marlin, i would do so and then run print a calibration tool that give you a 100 mm margin ( more accurate for your self) then use the formula at prusa research to recalculate your steps per mm and change them in the firmware and voila dialed in super accurate, and by the way the extruder calibration should always be done hot so you get an accurate setting for the filament you're using. Get a book and write each filament down and it best temp etc,
Good Luck and happy printing
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