UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
Tightened the screws but still lopsided/skewed prints
Posted
· Tightened the screws but still lopsided/skewed prints
I think you may have two different issues here. Where there are huge differences in layer position - the print suddenly offsets by several cm, more likely to be due to skipped steps on a fast travel move: the head trys to jump back to the start of the next layer really fast, and just can't move the head fast enough - so it pretends that it made the move, but just gives up and carries on.
To fix that, power the printer off, and try moving the head by hand, first in X, then in Y. In each case, just use light finger tip pressure on both blocks for that axis at the same time. The head should move smoothly and easily, and require about the same amount of pressure in each direction and on both axes. If it seem sticky or hard to move, make sure that everything is square and level, and the sliding blocks are holding the smaller cross rods level. Make sure the end caps aren't binding on the axes and stopping them turning freely. Add a little sewing machine oil to the rods to help smooth it all out.
After all that, if the problem persists, try reducing the speed on your fast moves a little bit. What is it currently set at? You should be able to do at least 100 - I have mine set at 250. You just have to figure out where your hardware starts to have problems and adjust accordingly.
The more gradual shifting of the layers is most likely related to slight slipping of the pulleys, since you say that the belts aren't rubbing. Use a permanent marker to mark the position of the pulleys on the axes (including the two on the motor shaft), and after a failure check to see that the marks are still all perfectly lined up. If not, you need to tighten more, and/or use different set screws (your kit may have included extra screws).
In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
Recommended Posts
illuminarti 18
I think you may have two different issues here. Where there are huge differences in layer position - the print suddenly offsets by several cm, more likely to be due to skipped steps on a fast travel move: the head trys to jump back to the start of the next layer really fast, and just can't move the head fast enough - so it pretends that it made the move, but just gives up and carries on.
To fix that, power the printer off, and try moving the head by hand, first in X, then in Y. In each case, just use light finger tip pressure on both blocks for that axis at the same time. The head should move smoothly and easily, and require about the same amount of pressure in each direction and on both axes. If it seem sticky or hard to move, make sure that everything is square and level, and the sliding blocks are holding the smaller cross rods level. Make sure the end caps aren't binding on the axes and stopping them turning freely. Add a little sewing machine oil to the rods to help smooth it all out.
After all that, if the problem persists, try reducing the speed on your fast moves a little bit. What is it currently set at? You should be able to do at least 100 - I have mine set at 250. You just have to figure out where your hardware starts to have problems and adjust accordingly.
The more gradual shifting of the layers is most likely related to slight slipping of the pulleys, since you say that the belts aren't rubbing. Use a permanent marker to mark the position of the pulleys on the axes (including the two on the motor shaft), and after a failure check to see that the marks are still all perfectly lined up. If not, you need to tighten more, and/or use different set screws (your kit may have included extra screws).
Link to post
Share on other sites