for basic bargain bin PLA on my CR-10s, I get my quality through the roof by dialing down my jerk settings to 20-5mm/s, printing under 25mm/s at 200c. if you have supports, use interfaces. 3 walls, 100% flow rate, and .1mm layer height. this is not how to learn, though. it's just copying some numbers and not knowing why they work.
you want the lowest temperature that gives you good adhesion without creating friction and knocking over prints. it's a bit tough on extruder motors, but prevents blobbing, stringing, boogering, and elephand's foot, as well as giving you better bridging, easier to remove supports, and nice overhangs.
Low jerk prevents ghosting and shaking, and the base jerk is at 500mm/s/s, which basically disables it until your print head is moving a quarter of a meter per second. basically cut the jerk number in half, and that's the fastest speed at which it will attempt to make a hairpin turn.
outer layer options. time saver settings are here. print at normal speeds on everything but the outermost layer. if it's not obvious, you don't need the inside to be pretty. also gyroid infill is really fast unless you have a lot of thin gaps in your model.
if you have everything else dialed in, layer height is almost a non-issue, because your layers will be nearly invisible, and your detail is limited by your nozzle.I would not suggest printing at the same layer height as your nozzle is wide. it seems to do wonky stuff with adhesion and part strength unless you overextrude, at which point you might as well just use a larger nozzle.
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Steverc1572 5
This all depends on your printer and nozzle size.
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ahoeben 1,981
...and material, and even the type of model and what you define as "best quality". "Best quality" can mean best looking surface, or it can mean best achievable strength, or something else entirely. And sometimes improving one thing can negatively influence the other.
If there were one profile that would give you "best quality" for all printers, configurations, materials and for all different models, Cura would surely ship with that profile (and there would be no reason for most of the 300+ settings that you can use to tweak your print).
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