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This is fairly common with polyesters (PET, CPE,...). Some people advise to use glue, in the hope that the glue layer will break instead of the glass. But for me that didn't help, my glue was too good. So, just like you, I also heard the glass cracking while it was still cooling down.
Now I use my "salt method": wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water prior to printing, which leaves a thin almost invisible layer of salt stuck to the glass. For PLA the salt method greatly increases bonding (compared to printing on bare glass) when the glass is hot, but there is no bonding at all when cold. But for PET the salt method slightly reduces bonding, so the glass doesn't crack anymore. Now the model separates from the glass in the salt layer, as desired. Disadvantage is a bit more risk of warping, so I print with no cooling fans. I only use glue now if I need a lot of cooling fan for printing overhangs.
I'm excited because I've personally produced this showcase event, so if you are curious what else I'm up to nowadays, come check it out and say hi in the chat! It would mean a lot!
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geert_2 543
This is fairly common with polyesters (PET, CPE,...). Some people advise to use glue, in the hope that the glue layer will break instead of the glass. But for me that didn't help, my glue was too good. So, just like you, I also heard the glass cracking while it was still cooling down.
Now I use my "salt method": wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water prior to printing, which leaves a thin almost invisible layer of salt stuck to the glass. For PLA the salt method greatly increases bonding (compared to printing on bare glass) when the glass is hot, but there is no bonding at all when cold. But for PET the salt method slightly reduces bonding, so the glass doesn't crack anymore. Now the model separates from the glass in the salt layer, as desired. Disadvantage is a bit more risk of warping, so I print with no cooling fans. I only use glue now if I need a lot of cooling fan for printing overhangs.
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