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I once got wounded by a tiny 50mm computerfan running at overspeed, so the blades were ripped off and flew all across the room. And that was a standard injection moulded glassfiber reinforced nylon fan... (It was running *way* overspeed...)
So, 3D-printing any propeller- or turbine-like blades looks like a risky business to me. Airplane propellers and turbines are carefully X-rayed for cracks and voids. FDM 3D-prints are by concept full of such "cracks" due to the way the molten "sausages" are laid down. Also, the surface of the blades needs to be very smooth to get a good airflow, and the airfoil shape needs to be very accurate, both which you won't get with a 3D-print.
I think you would be better off making a mould from a real model (thus a duplicate), or if it is a new design, from a carefully post-processed and smoothed 3D-print, and then cast it in strong PU or whatever composite you want. If you cast in a transparent material, you can see any bubbles. If you select a slow-curing resin, you can evacuate the bubbles by vacuum and shaking or tapping. If the mould is big enough, you can also add high-strength fiberglass or other fiber reinforcements, around which you cast. Just like in real airplanes or good safety helmets. Plastic injection-moulded safety helmets are worthless crap, but the good helmets made from composite-resin impregnated fibers can be hit by a heavy hammer several times without fracturing. They don't come apart, which is what you might want.
Thanks! That sounds like a good approach to me. I might print off the original in a wax in that case, maybe make a 'lost wax' mold and use the clear resin as you suggest.
Much appreciated.
John
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In the Cura 5.8 stable release, everyone can now tune their Z seams to look better than ever. Method series users get access to new material profiles, and the base Method model now has a printer profile, meaning the whole Method series is now supported in Cura!
We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
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geert_2 558
I once got wounded by a tiny 50mm computerfan running at overspeed, so the blades were ripped off and flew all across the room. And that was a standard injection moulded glassfiber reinforced nylon fan... (It was running *way* overspeed...)
So, 3D-printing any propeller- or turbine-like blades looks like a risky business to me. Airplane propellers and turbines are carefully X-rayed for cracks and voids. FDM 3D-prints are by concept full of such "cracks" due to the way the molten "sausages" are laid down. Also, the surface of the blades needs to be very smooth to get a good airflow, and the airfoil shape needs to be very accurate, both which you won't get with a 3D-print.
I think you would be better off making a mould from a real model (thus a duplicate), or if it is a new design, from a carefully post-processed and smoothed 3D-print, and then cast it in strong PU or whatever composite you want. If you cast in a transparent material, you can see any bubbles. If you select a slow-curing resin, you can evacuate the bubbles by vacuum and shaking or tapping. If the mould is big enough, you can also add high-strength fiberglass or other fiber reinforcements, around which you cast. Just like in real airplanes or good safety helmets. Plastic injection-moulded safety helmets are worthless crap, but the good helmets made from composite-resin impregnated fibers can be hit by a heavy hammer several times without fracturing. They don't come apart, which is what you might want.
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JohnInOttawa 104
Thanks! That sounds like a good approach to me. I might print off the original in a wax in that case, maybe make a 'lost wax' mold and use the clear resin as you suggest.
Much appreciated.
John
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