Updated: material test (two tests) - Never buying Ultimaker ABS again. ABS is a waste of time to me personally. High Heat - ABS White Vs. PC White

[e23 1]

https://ultimaker.com/materials/abs

 

ABS is somewhat dangerous to print with.

 

85C - max temp it can stand or around 185F

 

Very difficult to figure out how to print with.

 

https://ultimaker.com/materials/pc

 

PC is safer than ABS from what I understand. You only have to watch out for BPA. Plus much of this was around water or liquids in plastic bottles. I don't use PC or Polycarbonate for drinking anything out of it to as well. I figure for the most part I won't have to really worry about much.

 

110C (112-113C - glass transition)

 

PC is much easier to print with as I'm finding out. Just got done with my first print.

 

ABS is a hassle. Dangers alone of ABS (one website I read even gave it a cancer warning.) - Plus it's not easy to print and can't handle high temps for the most part like PC can.

 

If you can pay $20 more or so I recommend PC over ABS already. It's easier to print, handles higher temps, and is much safer than ABS.

 

I had no problems with it and it came out perfect after having no experience with the settings other than coming over from ABS for the most part.

 

I didn't even know what print settings to go with.

 

Print Settings - turned out perfect on the first try. ABS was such a hassle to figure this out plus the dangers to as well of printing with ABS alone.

 

Print Temp: 270C

Bed Temp: 100C

 

Enclosure

 

I think the dimensional stability might be key with PC alone, but I'm not sure yet.

 

Only downside I'm finding is you have to use Breakaway (can't use PVA) and that's experimental still. Which isn't that big of a deal and I figure I won't have to deal with that as much since I don't have a warping issue with regular prints even. Not sure on this one for now.

 

Update:

 

Material Test - PC White Vs. Abs White

 

First two images

 

1st test - high heat - 210F water - regulated

2nd test - impact resistance (hammer both sides - 5x each side)

 

The results below.

 

1st test - high heat - 210F water - regulated

 

PC White - 35 minutes x2 or 1:10 minutes (stopped here since I figured nothing would happen for a few hours at least).

 

Vs.

 

ABS White - 30 minutes (it was done after 30 minutes).

 

I didn't remove the brim completely on the left one. I kind of just left it there for this so that's why it's kind of uneven. Figured it wouldn't do anything in the test realm other than kind of just look uneven or not picture perfect.

 

 

PC White was fine after 1:10 minutes at 210F (Fahrenheit - yes you read that right). ABS White was done after 30 minutes (massive warping issues).

 

 

Material Test 2 - impact resistance

 

2nd test - impact resistance (hammer both sides - 5x each side) - PC White did well and ABS White was gone. ABS White is on the left for this image.

 

 

PC White is still flat for the most part and/or is dimensionally stable. ABS white is finished no matter what to me personally.

 

 

PC White - $70

 

ABS White - $50

 

PC White can still be used since it's dimensionally stable after everything is said and done (it's not easy to even bend it even though it cracked a couple of times), but it would leak if you used any liquids or anything like that. The 3rd image shows were it cracked a couple of times.

 

I'm really surprised with the results of this all and I can never go back to ABS White after switching to PC White (finally switched yesterday). I don't mind paying $20 more for something that works incredible and/or extremely well (from what I've seen myself). PC White is also easier to 3D print with to me personally (I have an enclosure myself). ABS White had warping issues, but if the conditions are right for PC White it prints just fine and is even easier than ABS White.

 

Both are Ultimaker materials.

 

side note(s):

 

The test isn't perfect (basically or close enough).

 

This is more or so what I need it for myself.

 

What I use it for...

 

The heat is trapped on the inside (up to an hour or so usually) of the plastic pieces and it has to keep it's shape. Plus warping issues at higher temps or temps up to 190F-200F (185F-190F max usually) with ABS White alone.

 

Heat resistance for the inside and impact resistance for the shape as well dimensional stability.

 

1. Heat Resistance

2. Impact Resistance

3. Dimensional Stability

Edited February 9, 2020 by e23
changed some wording

[Abrasive 4]

What do you actually use it for?  Polypropylene filament will have a much higher impact strength than polycarbonate.  It can handle heat decently as well.  It is more flexible but that can be offset by thickness/geometry depending on your application.

Alternatively you can purchase Polymaker PolyMax and save the Ultimaker rebranding cost.  I don't really think ABS has much of a place anymore as far as being the best material for an application as there are so many options now.

[e23 1]

 

1 hour ago, Abrasive said:

What do you actually use it for?  Polypropylene filament will have a much higher impact strength than polycarbonate.  It can handle heat decently as well.  It is more flexible but that can be offset by thickness/geometry depending on your application.

Alternatively you can purchase Polymaker PolyMax and save the Ultimaker rebranding cost.  I don't really think ABS has much of a place anymore as far as being the best material for an application as there are so many options now.

 

I don't need the impact strength. I need it be able to handle heat. My new test is around 1:10 minutes at 210F (what I need it to handle alone).

 

I create molds and such myself.

 

Thanks, I will check out the polymaker polymax

Edited February 1, 2020 by e23

[Abrasive 4]

Interesting, I've only done a little mold making myself.  Polypropylene is also good for molds as you don't need a release agent.  I'm not sure if it would be up to the heat for your task but it would be close.  The CNC Kitchen did a video on polypropylene where he boiled water in it in the microwave I believe.  Worth a watch if you have some time.

[e23 1]

51 minutes ago, Abrasive said:

Interesting, I've only done a little mold making myself.  Polypropylene is also good for molds as you don't need a release agent.  I'm not sure if it would be up to the heat for your task but it would be close.  The CNC Kitchen did a video on polypropylene where he boiled water in it in the microwave I believe.  Worth a watch if you have some time.

 

I didn't get myself anything for Christmas and/or my Birthday (which happened recently). I decided to treat myself finally and finally figured out something I'd really want rather than spending useless money on something.

 

I just picked up 3000 grams (3 Kg) of Polymaker PC-Max - True White for about $150 (roughly with tax included). I would of paid $70x4 (750 grams each - .75 Kg) or about $300 (tax and such) in total for the same amount.

 

I looked through everything to and it was the same 110C rating for heat as well and I think the 112-113 glass transition to as well was the same. Plus the strength was there and I read a review to as well that said just that. It's also easy to print with which will be basically the same the ultimaker PC White. It looks basically like it's the same material.

 

That tip was great thanks. I got 3000 grams for $150 and that tip saved me $150 roughly. Glad you said that to me and thanks again.

 

Couldn't find the video.

 

Edited February 1, 2020 by e23

[Abrasive 4]

This is probably the best channel for discovering filament properties:

 

[e23 1]

6 minutes ago, Abrasive said:

This is probably the best channel for discovering filament properties:

 

 

I did find the right video (the microwave part wasn't that long though).

 

I can't have flex and PP appears to flex.

 

---

 

The glass transition was the same for the other filament. I doubled checked the website and that was right.

 

 

 

Edited February 1, 2020 by e23