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For PET, I get good layer adhesion by printing much slower and cooler, and *without fan*. But then the bridging and overhangs suffer (but most of my models need no bridging and no overhangs).
The "printing cooler" is to prevent the filament from burning and decomposing in the nozzle, due to the much longer transit times.
I don't know if this would also work for PVC?
Anyway, watch out for chlorine gasses, if it would decompose. Should be easy to smell, like in a swimming pool where they overdid it.
You need to purge the print core at the end of each print to avoid carbon buildups. Purge material is the preferred choice otherwise use regular PLA or any material that don't required exceeding 200-205°C.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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geert_2 557
For PET, I get good layer adhesion by printing much slower and cooler, and *without fan*. But then the bridging and overhangs suffer (but most of my models need no bridging and no overhangs).
The "printing cooler" is to prevent the filament from burning and decomposing in the nozzle, due to the much longer transit times.
I don't know if this would also work for PVC?
Anyway, watch out for chlorine gasses, if it would decompose. Should be easy to smell, like in a swimming pool where they overdid it.
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