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For PET, I get good layer adhesion by printing much slower and cooler, and *without fan*. But then the bridging and overhangs suffer (but most of my models need no bridging and no overhangs).
The "printing cooler" is to prevent the filament from burning and decomposing in the nozzle, due to the much longer transit times.
I don't know if this would also work for PVC?
Anyway, watch out for chlorine gasses, if it would decompose. Should be easy to smell, like in a swimming pool where they overdid it.
You need to purge the print core at the end of each print to avoid carbon buildups. Purge material is the preferred choice otherwise use regular PLA or any material that don't required exceeding 200-205°C.
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For PET, I get good layer adhesion by printing much slower and cooler, and *without fan*. But then the bridging and overhangs suffer (but most of my models need no bridging and no overhangs).
The "printing cooler" is to prevent the filament from burning and decomposing in the nozzle, due to the much longer transit times.
I don't know if this would also work for PVC?
Anyway, watch out for chlorine gasses, if it would decompose. Should be easy to smell, like in a swimming pool where they overdid it.
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