Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Framar

Member
  • Content Count

    216
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Framar last won the day on January 29

Framar had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

17 Good

Personal Information

  • Country
    CA
  • Industry
    Manufacturing

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. By looking at the part design it's cleat that some areas need support. Were you using PLA support or PVA support? You can add a roof to the support structure it will improve surface quality.
  2. @Smithy, I think you can download the profile from the marketplace. In my case I used the generic ABS settings and only slowdown the printing speed to 30mm/s (Otherwise layer adhesion might not be as good as expected).
  3. Considering that the E2 has an enclosure and HEPA filters right out of the box I think it offer better value. Also the index system allow you to print identical parts faster. I'm not too impressed with our S5 print quality (assuming the S3 would give similar results) E2 would be my pick.
  4. I do print PP (ultimaker brand) on our S5. It is easy to print; the bed plate adhesion is tricky so it is better to use packaging tape. Also the dimensions would be smaller than CAD model since PP has a high shrink factor. As for the layer adhesion it never been an issue, in fact it is the most impact resistant material I've printed. You can litterally throw your part as hard as you can it it won't break.
  5. Nice model. Support position is tricky. Sorry I don't have any tip for you.
  6. In such case I would use a thin block as a support blocker and assign it a 100% infill. Or I would split the 3D model at the location Where the 100% infill is needed and stack them on each other so you get top layer of the fisrt block and then bottom layer of the second one.
  7. I think that 3D PRINTING NERD has made a video about the different material you can print. Have a look on his YouTube channel.
  8. Warm water really makes a big difference (2x faster). I usually drop my 3D printed parts in a large bucket. Since I don'T have any agitator I replace the water every 2-4 hours. Usually it takes 8 to 24 hours to dissolve the PVA depending on the quantity to dissolve. You can get it done quicker if you remove most of the PVA with pliers first. Or even better, if you can use PLA as support structure and use PVA only for the support roof. Then you can get really clean part quicker but not all part design is good for that option.
  9. I like Filamentum too. And it is true that it is easier to get 1,75mm filament than 2,85mm...
  10. I remember someone else had the same problem in the past. Make a search on the forum and should find the solution.
  11. I would also recommand to set a negative inital layer horizontal expansion. As you noticed it the first layer is squish on the print bed that you cannot get accurate printed geometry. On my S5 I need -0,25mm for initial layer and 0,1mm for all the other layers so my prints can match the CAD geometry size.
  12. That is not right. The bechy shows cooling issue and uneven extrusion. Please check if the cooling fans are clean and working. If all right, I would reprint a Benchy in PLA using the default parameters, You should get better print that this.
  13. This looks similar to what I get with our S5.
×
×
  • Create New...