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Framar

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  • Field of Work
    Manufacturing
  • Country
    CA
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5

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  1. Hello AAGC, I ran into the same kind of situation when I start using my S5 back in fall 2018. Looking at your picture I'm no suprise of the results. I would have get the same on my printer. To improve my prints I had to try different settings. Now I get decent (but not excellent) prints but it's a shame that sub $1000 printer can beat a $8000 printer. I feel your disapointment.
  2. I have good result spraying 3Dlac on the glass. The prints detached easily once cooled.
  3. I would suggest you reduce the print speed to 40mm/s; reduce the print acceleration to 2000 mm/s2; enable jerk control and set it to 15mm/s reduce print core temperature by -10°C. Make sure all the driving straps are tight enought.
  4. Same here. Working on a S5 and get a 0,2 to 0,3mm inaccuracy in X and Y.
  5. I would like to know hoe the flow sensor on the S5 is working. On my last print I knew I was running out of filament but let the printer running until it stops by itself to add more filament. Problem was that the printer had detect the lack of filament after it ran one or two layers. Adding the material did not save the print as it resumed at too far layer... Is this how it should work?
  6. This is because the text and lines on your 3d models are thinner than the nozzle opening. In Cura make sure you "print thin walls" is checked.
  7. Hi Spentys, You see, with my S5 it is the opposite; when the printer runs out of filament it continues printing in the air even though the flow sensor is enabled...
  8. What material/color were you printing prior to this print?
  9. I reprinted the part using Ultimaker White Tought PLA and while the part is looking better it still shows some under extrusion. I did tuned the print by reducing print speed and increasing the plastic flow on the S5 in the middle of the print but the print is barely acceptable. I think that this is mainly caused by starting to print after retraction. Is there a setting that can be used to prime the nozzle after retraction? So far printing with 0,8mm print core results in 100% rejected part...
  10. Hello Ultimaker Community, I tried to print an ABS cover for a dry box I want to use when printing with PVA. even though I’m using Ultimaker ABS on an Ultimaker S5 with Ultimaker Cura recommended settings I got this… I’m very disappointed that it is not coming out any better. I would have expect using all Ultimaker’s stuff would give the best results. I mean, even the Ultimaker PLA on the S5 resulted in bad print.. Is the printer bad? Is it the material? the settings? (printed using 0,8mm Print Core AA on Glass bed using 3D lac) Any clue? Thanks! Dry box top.stl
  11. That reminds me of my very prints on my S5. The first few prints were ok but the more prints the more it was sticking on the glass to a point where I ahd to hit the print with a small hammer to get it off the glass. Since then, I clean the glass with lens cleaner after every prints and it is just perfect now.
  12. In my experience a gap of 0,4mm is the minimuum I use but again you can get different results and there are just to many paramters that can impact the end result... Good luck!
  13. I think I've found your problem. The STL file looks OK. The problem comes from the model having thin walls, so thin that CURA don't print the walls thinner than the orifice or line width. You would have to use a 0,25mm print core to get the model to improve printing but even at 0,25mm it will not be perfect. You can also turn the "Print thin wall" option on in "Shell" settings. Is this model design to be 3D printed? Good luck!
  14. Can you proide the STL file? It might be the 3D model having bad surfaces...
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