Hi J:
I locate in Connecticut USA. I am using 0.4 mm nozzle. Most of the time, I use 1.75 mm PLA. It is a 600 X 600 X 600 mm printing zoom machine. Cura does not list this machine as one of pre-setup one. I like Cura than any other 3D slice application. Hopefully I can use it. Thanks!
Chip
Howdy chipS,
We're in Columbus, OH and just finished our Modix 120X V3 build a few weeks ago (1200x 600 x 600). We've had had a few issues with setup and layer shifting, for which Modix is sending updated components, so time will tell on how well it performs. I believe JohnInOttawa is right that we are on the pioneering end of things, since there is very little info out there on our machines.
You should have received an email from Modix (i.e. sales@modix3d.com) the a user name and login to a customer support page, which is where the step-by-step assembly instructions were located.
On that page, there should be a CURA profile download. If you have any trouble finding it, let me know which version (V2 or V3) you have and I'll send the file.
-DavidB
I have had a Modix Big 120X for almost a year and a half now. I will tell you it is awesome. I have printed giant prints (like 4 foot long) with NylonX, PLA and ABS. I found this site as I am having some issues with PETG and am hoping the Cura slicer helps. While I am looking for the settings as well, I saw TwoFiftySWB's comment and wanted to weigh in on your components.
Immediately upgrade the bearings in your rail cartridges to ceramic bearings. I had shifting problems as well and it took forever to finally diagnose the issue. It is real easy to do.
Hi all,
I also bought a Modix Big60 v2, in november 2019. I'm situated in Belgium.
I just didn't get around to build it up till about 3 weeks ago 🤦♂️
@chucktaggart; Are you saying you took out the individual bearing balls from the cartridges and put new ceramic ones in there??
Can you provide some info on how you did and where you bought those replacement parts?
I'm trying to understand how those steel bearing balls would be so poorly sized that they would allow so much motion that you'd have side shifting from that?
I personally also don't like the method of belt tensioning they chose. Especially for the front+back X-axes.
Loosening the bracket and having those brackets "float" from the 40x40 profile to facilitate the right tension?? 😕
I think I should try to create (or find) some kind of sleigh tensioned by a screw and/or some heavy spring or something..
Did you guys change anything there?
Hope to hear from you chucktaggart, thanks in advance! 🙂
Did this thread go dead?
What is the part number for the ceramic bearings?
What is the setup for Modix 120x V3 with Cura?
Thanks in advance for your help?
On 8/19/2020 at 9:21 PM, Felich said:Did this thread go dead?
What is the part number for the ceramic bearings?
What is the setup for Modix 120x V3 with Cura?
Thanks in advance for your help?
I also don't know why people don't answer to questions.. 😕
A few things I found out recently when trying to print ASA parts on my Big60 V2:
- After trying the PEI and then the BuildTak Flex System I can to the conclusion, that -for me- I get the best results using 3DLac directly on the alu print bed with the bed @ 80ºC (or more), 0% cooling fan for large parts and when the parts get significantly smaller in effective XY dimensions somewhere between 50-80% cooling fan (only when the diameter gets small, otherwise it'll warp like crazy.
I'm highly surprised how crazy strong that 3DLac holds that ASA down to the alu bed. If you need more sticking power, just increase the bed temperature. And cooling off the bed just leaves the prints sitting completely loose on the bed in the end.
I found that I get the best results when I don't use a brim, because the 3DLac sticks so hard that it's not needed and... The part only loosens itself if it's big and especially solid enough, so it can offer enough resistance against the shrinking of the alu plate.
A brim just shrinks along with the alu bed and will still stick to the 3DLac pretty much even after the bed cools down.
I haven't tried Magigoo. It's said that that will let go completely when cold. But since I only print large enough parts, I don't think I wanna spend that much more for the same effect.
Sticking the material to the bed is a first challenge. If you print with "easy" material like PLA, then you don't have to worry much about warping and bed adhesion. Printing on the BuildTak Flex System (or Wham Bam or AliExpress alternatives) works pretty nice. ASA made my BuildTak pull loose from the magnetic base and curl up like crazy. That's why I ended up trying it directly on the alu bed.
Hope this info is useful for Modix users.
"Immediately upgrade the bearings in your rail cartridges to ceramic bearings. I had shifting problems as well and it took forever to finally diagnose the issue. It is real easy to do."
having major shifting problems... Any ideas?
I haven't seen an update from @@chucktaggart yet as to what ceramic bearings are referenced. These are supposed to be HIWIN rails, I thought they are the best? Why would you need to change bearings on a top of the line rail carriage?
I am also having major layer shifting in the X axis on our BIG60 V3 where I work.
I doubt changing the ceramic bearings would change much since the bearings move parallel to the axis if anything maybe the bearing on the Y axis would be a problem for layer shifting in the X axis.
I think the motor gear slipping could be a reason, if not, tension in the belts, but its such a pain to access the components.
TwoFiftySWB what kind of upgraded parts did you receive from Modix?
theres another thread on reddit but no clear solution the neither.
Recently I was 9hrs down a print (on my Modix Big60 V2) and coincidentally while I was looking at it suddenly made a loud grinding noise from the X-axis motor while it had already started a travel move (moved 2" already of an approx 6" travel move to the next object on the plate). It was pretty much up to speed, but still it stopped suddenly and then continued.
It was mid-air, it wasn't touching anything. I was baffled?!
The people from Modix say that missing a few steps so now and then can happen always as Open Loop motors basically aren't really the most reliable ones, unless you do all your movements reeallly slow..
Then during a conversation with Modix about tilting issues of the print bed, the guy mentioned that re-adjusting the tilt is actually needed/advised every 1-3 prints?! Reason: Because the Modix uses OPEN LOOP stepper motors..!
I had no idea what that meant actually, until I saw this video:
I want to try those.
Edited by kayazukihi guys,
recently I became a owner of a big-60 too. Totally agree with the fact that there is not a lot of us our there in the wild with a modix printer. That's why I have set up a discord channel for ease of communication and support :)
You can join here: https://discord.gg/SWcGf7ZN
I will be setting up a cura profile for the modix printer
TwanV - Did the discord server link is no longer working. Did you make a new one or did this fail? I'm looking for folks to assist with advice around a new Modix Big-60 that I purchased yesterday. Would love to ask a few questions.
Guys, I've discovered that the UBL BL Touch sensor is really not making me very happy.
I just can't print decently outside a central box of approx 150x150mm on that 660x660mm alu plate without seeing terrible width variations in the wall thickness.
I made and printed a bracket on my Anycubic Mono X resin printer for a micrometer I suddenly realised I still had laying around somewhere. See images.
I mounted the thing on the mounting points of the secondary printhead.
Then I wrote a simple program to probe 10x10 measure points as close as possible to the UBL pattern (which appears to be 603mm divided over 9 sections resulting in 10 points spaced 67mm).
The measurements exactly identify the issues I've been seeing during the prints if I tried to print 3 objects in an area of approx 300x300mm! (All those values should have been the same, but they are far from the same. 50 represents 0.50mm)
I'll apply the corrections now and I hope that will make a big difference (finally).
Clearly the edge of the alu plate in the back is really out of wack. No idea how or why.
It's a little disappointing that the BL Touch allows the UBL mesh to be measured with upto 0.2mm tolerance?!
While I print ASA with a layer thickness of 0.3mm (directly on the alu plate btw, using 3DLac with a bad of 100ºC. Sticks great. Pops right off below approx 40ºC, great!).
That's a deviation of 66.7%. That's insane, really..
I hope the micrometer adjustments will finally solve this problem.
Another btw; In had to place the printer in the garage (no room indoors) and I cannot regulate the temperature there (without going bankrupt). So the machine shrank that much in wintertime that my belts were all pretty loose, resulting in additional printing issues.
Time to move and find a bigger place 😉
@iath I see, the link expired, here's a new one!
https://discord.gg/AMkt9rtWs2
Can anyone give me access to this discord server??
On 2/21/2021 at 10:05 AM, kayazuki said:Guys, I've discovered that the UBL BL Touch sensor is really not making me very happy.
I just can't print decently outside a central box of approx 150x150mm on that 660x660mm alu plate without seeing terrible width variations in the wall thickness.
I made and printed a bracket on my Anycubic Mono X resin printer for a micrometer I suddenly realised I still had laying around somewhere. See images.
I mounted the thing on the mounting points of the secondary printhead.
Then I wrote a simple program to probe 10x10 measure points as close as possible to the UBL pattern (which appears to be 603mm divided over 9 sections resulting in 10 points spaced 67mm).
The measurements exactly identify the issues I've been seeing during the prints if I tried to print 3 objects in an area of approx 300x300mm! (All those values should have been the same, but they are far from the same. 50 represents 0.50mm)
I'll apply the corrections now and I hope that will make a big difference (finally).
Clearly the edge of the alu plate in the back is really out of wack. No idea how or why.
It's a little disappointing that the BL Touch allows the UBL mesh to be measured with upto 0.2mm tolerance?!
While I print ASA with a layer thickness of 0.3mm (directly on the alu plate btw, using 3DLac with a bad of 100ºC. Sticks great. Pops right off below approx 40ºC, great!).
That's a deviation of 66.7%. That's insane, really..
I hope the micrometer adjustments will finally solve this problem.
Another btw; In had to place the printer in the garage (no room indoors) and I cannot regulate the temperature there (without going bankrupt). So the machine shrank that much in wintertime that my belts were all pretty loose, resulting in additional printing issues.
Time to move and find a bigger place 😉
can we get a discord server link refresh.
On 9/23/2022 at 3:14 PM, mizu5588 said:
can we get a discord server link refresh.
https://discord.gg/AVmCV6sT valid for 7 days...
Our company just acquired a Modix Big120Z featuring an E3D Super Volcano hot end with a 1mm nozzle. It continues to be a real challenge to get the Cura settings working correctly for this set up. Does anyone have experience with the Super Volcano hot end?
Also, is the Discord server still available?
Feel free to check out the Modix Advanced User Group and the AdvancedTakoto User Group on FB for Cura assistance with Modix machines.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/modixadvancedusers
https://www.facebook.com/groups/advancedtakoto
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JohnInOttawa 104
The Modix is an interesting machine. Still relatively rare so you might be a bit of a pioneer. Can you provide a bit of info as to where (generally) you're located, what print nozzle size(s) you are working with, filament type, etc?
Cheers
J
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