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It looks like your glass is not flat. Ultimaker uses tempered glass and the process of how it is made tends to give you glass that is not as flat as would be nice. It would be nice if the glass was flat within 0.05mm but that's hard to do. It looks like your glass is out by about 0.1mm (high in the thin areas). The most common error for tempered glass is "high in the middle". Kind of like a mountain. Or sometimes a ridge. However:
1) This looks fine - if you had let the part keep going you would have gotten a fine looking print (pretty sure) and the bottom would have been flat within about 0.1mm (pretty sure). Which is quite flat. The downside is that your part will stick LIKE CRAZY in those areas where it's so thin on that bottom layer. Extra squish means it will stick badly to the glass and you may have a little extra trouble getting it off the bed on that side of the print. But probably not enough to be a problem.
2) Yes the "active leveling" is supposed to do multiple point leveling (I thought?) but I guess not quite enough points.
I would check with a metal straight edge to see how flat your glass actually is (it's possible something under the glass - say a grain of sand is bending it up in that spot. It's easy to bend the glass by a few tenths of a millimeter.
If the glass seems perfectly flat (straight edge doesn't rock) then maybe you are right and it is the active leveling.
Active leveling works better if the spring in the bed is weaker than the spring in the core so you could loosen the 3 leveling screws a lot which will reduce that spring force and might make the active leveling work better.
If I'm right and it's the glass you could ask your reseller for a replacement. Most likely you can get a free one if you can convince them it's the glass. But I think this piece of glass, although it may be worse than average, it still looks like it's within acceptable tolerance.
Thanks very much for detailed explanation. Indeed my glass is not so flat after check... I try to play with screws, and will see if it's better, and trying to have another glass.
Thanks again
Guillaume
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In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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It looks like your glass is not flat. Ultimaker uses tempered glass and the process of how it is made tends to give you glass that is not as flat as would be nice. It would be nice if the glass was flat within 0.05mm but that's hard to do. It looks like your glass is out by about 0.1mm (high in the thin areas). The most common error for tempered glass is "high in the middle". Kind of like a mountain. Or sometimes a ridge. However:
1) This looks fine - if you had let the part keep going you would have gotten a fine looking print (pretty sure) and the bottom would have been flat within about 0.1mm (pretty sure). Which is quite flat. The downside is that your part will stick LIKE CRAZY in those areas where it's so thin on that bottom layer. Extra squish means it will stick badly to the glass and you may have a little extra trouble getting it off the bed on that side of the print. But probably not enough to be a problem.
2) Yes the "active leveling" is supposed to do multiple point leveling (I thought?) but I guess not quite enough points.
I would check with a metal straight edge to see how flat your glass actually is (it's possible something under the glass - say a grain of sand is bending it up in that spot. It's easy to bend the glass by a few tenths of a millimeter.
If the glass seems perfectly flat (straight edge doesn't rock) then maybe you are right and it is the active leveling.
Active leveling works better if the spring in the bed is weaker than the spring in the core so you could loosen the 3 leveling screws a lot which will reduce that spring force and might make the active leveling work better.
If I'm right and it's the glass you could ask your reseller for a replacement. Most likely you can get a free one if you can convince them it's the glass. But I think this piece of glass, although it may be worse than average, it still looks like it's within acceptable tolerance.
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