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I cleaned the shafts, clipped them back in and lubricated with machine oil but when I try moving the head with my hands, its VERY tough to move. i tried tightening the belts, but the motor is moved to its maximum position.
These are the things that i would try first:
1.
There are two linear roll bearings in the printhead. Since the printhead has already cracks... check if these bearings are still seated in the correct position and orientation (not twisted or tilted).
2.
Oil can resinify / gum over time, so take sure that any old residue is thoroughly wiped off (with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol). That counts for all 6 horizontal shafts and the two vertical shafts of the z-axis.
For re-oiling of the 8mm shafts only use light oil. Oil that is meant to be used for sewing machines works best.
3.
To rule out a broken stepper motor: loose the x and y motors, so that you can remove the short belts from the motor shaft. This will not affect the perpendicular gantry system, so it's an easy ("non-destructive") test.
Move the printhead and rotate the motor shafts by hand to check where the actual resistance comes from.
All of this with a non-powered printer of course. 🙂
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tinkergnome 917
These are the things that i would try first:
1.
There are two linear roll bearings in the printhead. Since the printhead has already cracks... check if these bearings are still seated in the correct position and orientation (not twisted or tilted).
2.
Oil can resinify / gum over time, so take sure that any old residue is thoroughly wiped off (with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol). That counts for all 6 horizontal shafts and the two vertical shafts of the z-axis.
For re-oiling of the 8mm shafts only use light oil. Oil that is meant to be used for sewing machines works best.
3.
To rule out a broken stepper motor: loose the x and y motors, so that you can remove the short belts from the motor shaft. This will not affect the perpendicular gantry system, so it's an easy ("non-destructive") test.
Move the printhead and rotate the motor shafts by hand to check where the actual resistance comes from.
All of this with a non-powered printer of course. 🙂
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