UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
Posted
· Changing one default setting fixed EVERYTHING
Indeed, the first layer is crucial. For me, 0.1mm is too thin and gives occasional blank areas (=uncovered), 0.3mm is too thick and reduces bonding, and 0.2mm is best: this gives good coverage and good bonding (glass bed). But for other materials, beds, and printers, it could be different.
Normally the bottom looks like this (ruler is in mm and cm):
For PLA and printing on glass, wiping the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water greatly improves bonding, compared to printing on bare glass. See my old manual here (and then scroll down a bit):
For me this works very well on long flat models like rulers and calipers. Not very suitable for narrow high models like poles: they tend to get knocked off. So, stay with the printer until you know by experience how well it works for you.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
Recommended Posts
geert_2 557
Indeed, the first layer is crucial. For me, 0.1mm is too thin and gives occasional blank areas (=uncovered), 0.3mm is too thick and reduces bonding, and 0.2mm is best: this gives good coverage and good bonding (glass bed). But for other materials, beds, and printers, it could be different.
Normally the bottom looks like this (ruler is in mm and cm):
For PLA and printing on glass, wiping the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water greatly improves bonding, compared to printing on bare glass. See my old manual here (and then scroll down a bit):
https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/
For me this works very well on long flat models like rulers and calipers. Not very suitable for narrow high models like poles: they tend to get knocked off. So, stay with the printer until you know by experience how well it works for you.
Link to post
Share on other sites