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Skein PyPy setup

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I am having a problem with the Skein PyPy files. Downloaded and extracted to Cura which seems to be most updated as of 3/24/12.

Wiki says double click skeinpypy batch file and it will start to ask questions for the install and setup. Double click yields nothing on a 32bit windows 7 OS. Been getting along with ReplicatorG and Marlin and thought to try another set of software.

The read me file is difficult to read with Notepad. What is best to use?

Also read somewhere about starting with the .sh files. That doesn't work either.

Sorry to say but the entire process is new ground. Never used Github, navigation not as easy as a download button. The zipped file that seems to be the correct download is called daid-Cura-1021f0f and it is 584KB. Unziped 1.8MB with 252Files and 42 folders.

So in this unzipped folder are files and two folders Cura and scripts. Open scripts and there are three folders linux, os64, and win32. Go into the win32 folder doubleclick skeinpypy of type Windows Batch File and no joy. I get a window zoom but to nowhere. Is there a particular place this folder has to be so the correct path can be followed? Special way to start a windows Bat file? Another unfamiliar method batch file.

Sorry, can't piece together all the unfamiliars. Leaves my head spinning.

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OK Thanks, Sorry, I don't understand github and its choices

So, I get no start message when I try to run the checks. First time I upgraded the firmware and I couldn't get it to work. My setup doesn't like the Marlin that is is getting. 2560 Ultimaker. ReplicatorG couldn't connect either. This is what cost me a lot of time on the first day. Marlin2 works. I don't think the others do as I remember. It took me quit awhile to realize my connection problems were from the firmware. If you don't have a connection how do you upload firmware? That was my thinking and what cost time. Once I tried different firmware I found one that worked.

Anyway, I have been to printrun and sliced my model but don't see how to start printing. Just went again in case having firmware that connects might make a difference. Still don't see it.

In the startup calibration setup I couldn't warm the extruder to remove the filament. Something else that I almost missed is that you want to calibrate the 100mm of filament with the hot end removed. I know you say Duh!, but I have no experience with a procedure like that. Reading the forum the other night I happened upon a calibrating message that talked specifically about the procedure. This is what rang the bell in my thick skull.

As us outsiders come online you might have to consider what we do and don't know. I have used a Rapman and have never run across a filament calibration procedure. You print boxes, decide which one you like, you probably know the procedure. That is great that this machine actually lets you put numbers to it.

So thats my first shot at Skein pypy and printrun. Don't know if you wanted this much feedback but it was fresh in my mind and from reading some of your other messages I know you care and want to help us all. So that was a newbies perspective.

The physical design of this printer contains the best pieces of all the open source printers I have seen!

I appreciate your help and the time you spend.



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I just gone through the same exercise. Yup repG 0025 won't work with Marlin. Only 0026 would but that's for PC. So need to install SkeinPYPY.

Just open TERMINAL and type in what the readme tell you.

Here is my sample print Marlin vs Stock firmware.

http://www.indiegogo.com/Wahoo-The-Affo ... y&a=391308

And you might want to create a shortcut to run the script.

Use this in the AppleScript Editor

sh "/Application/skeinpypy.sh"

and do same for Pronteface.sh

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Those are pretty okish prints. But you can do better then that ;-) I know you can! And you say that that is at 10mm/s? That's very slow, maybe you forgot a zero in there?

You also have a bit of "underextrusion" you filament might be slipping. Or your filament diameter might be off, or your "steps per E" is wrong.

Good infill should look like:

http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120323 ... small.jpeg

the blue part, which is printed at 0.1mm layers at 100mm/s.

And variador: Your experience about the filament calibration is right. It's not that friendly for new users. I planned to include some photos to guide people trough it. But I haven't got around to do so. I need to make it easier for myself to make a very fancy help wizard for that part. With simple and clear steps, instead of a lot of steps on 1 page (the real problem with the steps calibration)

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No problem in being a rookie ;-) 100mm/s is quite fast for a "first print". The default of 50mm/s is a very safe value, but you can go quite a bit higher. There are people printing at 150mm/s, but that gives it's own set of troubles. My machine used to skip steps at 100mm/s before I oiled it and got all the belts tight enough. So that's why the safe 50mm/s is the default :)

The steps per E are found in the preferences (file->preferences). This is also what you calibrated at the final step of the wizard. It's the amount of step motor steps the extruder needs to take for 1mm of filament. The wizard helps you calibrate this value. However, if your filament is slipping then you'll never get this right, so check that first.

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A higher steps per E would make your machine take more steps on the extruder for 1 mm of filament, so it will extrude more filament then before. Only the filament diameter works in reverse, a higher filament thickness means less extrusion.

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