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I have never done this myself. But here on the forum I have seen people embedding things in the following way:
- design the model, with a hole where the embedded part has to come later on,
- start the print, and let it print to the top edge of the hole,
- pause printing,
- drop in the embedding, and glue if required,
- continue the print until finished.
Obviously, the last printed layer before pausing and embedding, must be a bit higher than the thickness of the embedded thing, so the nozzle doesn't hit that embedded thing.
This works well for metal plates, coins, and similar stuff to embed. Not for irregular shapes with undercuts that need a tight fit. You can't embed a statue in this way, obviously. For such irregular parts, I think printing multiple parts and then glueing or bolting them together might be a better option. Or print the outer shell, and a sort of inner clamp for the embedded thing, and fill the rest with an epoxy (low exotherm!) or gypsum.
If you only want to print on top of a foreign part on the glass, thus not really embedding (surrounding) the part, a trick for offsetting might be this:
- let the object to print float in the CAD model, at the desired height or offset,
- outside of that object, print a few dummy parts sitting on the glass, thus with offset null.
These dummy tiny parts will prevent the real model from being dropped onto the glass, so it will print at the correct height.
How to center all, is another question: then you would need to include a few outlines where the thing to embed has to come. After printing this bottom layer, pause, glue the embeddings in the right place, and continue.
Maybe something along these lines?
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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geert_2 557
I have never done this myself. But here on the forum I have seen people embedding things in the following way:
- design the model, with a hole where the embedded part has to come later on,
- start the print, and let it print to the top edge of the hole,
- pause printing,
- drop in the embedding, and glue if required,
- continue the print until finished.
Obviously, the last printed layer before pausing and embedding, must be a bit higher than the thickness of the embedded thing, so the nozzle doesn't hit that embedded thing.
This works well for metal plates, coins, and similar stuff to embed. Not for irregular shapes with undercuts that need a tight fit. You can't embed a statue in this way, obviously. For such irregular parts, I think printing multiple parts and then glueing or bolting them together might be a better option. Or print the outer shell, and a sort of inner clamp for the embedded thing, and fill the rest with an epoxy (low exotherm!) or gypsum.
If you only want to print on top of a foreign part on the glass, thus not really embedding (surrounding) the part, a trick for offsetting might be this:
- let the object to print float in the CAD model, at the desired height or offset,
- outside of that object, print a few dummy parts sitting on the glass, thus with offset null.
These dummy tiny parts will prevent the real model from being dropped onto the glass, so it will print at the correct height.
How to center all, is another question: then you would need to include a few outlines where the thing to embed has to come. After printing this bottom layer, pause, glue the embeddings in the right place, and continue.
Maybe something along these lines?
Link to post
Share on other sites